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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 Grizzly 660. The meter, at one point, worked like a charm. Now, all it does is light the backlight. Not even the gear lights work. I have read that these are common to go out with a low battery. I have checked the power wires to the meter, and they had good voltage. Is there anything else to check for, or is it just time for a new one?
 

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To insure not the battery, hook up jumpers from your vehicle and see if it is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The battery is new, I bought it last week. I will still try jumping just to confirm.
 

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I haven't had to replace a display, but if the battery is weak low voltage causes what you have going on. So you have a hot battery, double check the battery connections. I guess you bike starts fine so....
Have you recently installed a mod requiring electrical power? If so make sure that new connection is not the problem.
Another thing to check is the wiring plug to the dash, it's a p.i.t.a. to get at. There may be a weak connection, or dirt built up between the wire plug(s) or corrosion over time from water causing the problem.
Just throwing out things to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will double-check the connectors. I plan on trying to trace them too and add some dielectric grease afterward. This bike has been through a flood a few years back. After it came back from the mech the display would only backlight, but the gear lights worked. It has since digressed to just a backlight. All the fuses are good, and no modifications have been made. The battery is new with good connections.
 

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Now knowing of the flood, wires pick up oxidation for low voltage, you may need to go through the entire bike with die electric grease. freshwater or salt?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
It was freshwater. I planned on using dielectric grease on all of the plugs anyway. At the time the bike was near Baton Rouge when in 2016 just about everything flooded. What is the best way to combat the corrosion when found?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, so I disconnected the battery and used some electronics spray to clean the connectors on the right side and under the hood. After they were clean I let them dry then put some dielectric grease in the connector. I only did one plug at a time so I didn't mix them up. After that I reconnected the battery and turned the key to see the same result. Here is a picture of the display to attempt to help.
97676
 

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All those connector only have one other mate, you probably figured that by now.
And due to the amount of dirt under the hood, and in the intake tube, I bet over time this affected the dash causing it to fail. If you have a f.s.m. you can now check the voltage to different wires to confirm there is proper service to then replace the dash if needed.
That thing is a mess and used as a Grizzly should be, but now you may need a new part, or a good used one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A lot of that mud there happened on my last ride. It took a while to clean the clutches. I found the diagnostics in the service manual and am about to commence with it.
 

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The instrument clusters failing due to low voltage was only applicable to the early Grizzly 700's. No other model had an issue due to low voltage.

In most other cases, failed clusters is due to water intrusion or bad electrical connections. If your wiring, fuses and connections are good, then the cluster itself is most likely failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is likely water worked its way in, it did flood in 2016. I think it worked fine until about December 2016. Where it switched to just the backlight and the gear lights working. Now it has digressed further. I plan on cutting into the meter to see. It doesn't work anyway so what could it hurt?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can confirm that some water worked its way in. Some of the wires that come in have visible corrosion. According to my brother, a computer tech, a good bit of the diodes have a little between them.
 

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There is videos on YouTube of a guy repairing the instrument clusters. He is a electronic engineer or something. He takes you through the inspection and testing of it, and the most likely what has failed. The clusters may be the problematic early 700 models, but it's still worth a look.
 

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A lot of that mud there happened on my last ride. It took a while to clean the clutches. I found the diagnostics in the service manual and am about to commence with it.
I like reading when a member hammers a Grizz and it takes a while to clean the clutches....'GOOD ON YA' during the last ride.
Many times I've had mostly clear running stream water over the hood to get water down the c.v.t. intake, but not mud like what you show the remains of after cleaning :)
All I had to do was pull the c.v.t. drain plug and finish the day.
You must have 'REALLY' hammers that thing.
I bet you need a different dash, there are used parts sites that might have what you need.
(you have pictures of the Grizz nosed in and stuck)
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
We found what looks to be some bad capacitors. So we are going to attempt to replace them, before shelling out the big bucks. I do not have any pictures of it in the mud, but I do have one of the clutch aftermath which ill attach below. After that hole was not going fast for the rest of the day. Otherwise, I did see a video of a guy disassembling a 2006 Kodak 450 meter and replacing a capacitor to get it to work. He never did show it working tho. That is where I got the idea to tear into it
97679
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Also here are some of the board. The front side was cleaned, but the back has not been. The red circle on the back is where we found a disconnected and bad looking resistor.
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97681
 

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That's the worst primary sheave anyone has pictured, to my recollection, and you rode the bike home.
I suggest great focus on re-sealing that dash well, better than factory :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, so the capacitors did nothing. So, I decided I'm going to keep an eye out for a good used one and save for a new one. That way if I don't find a used one I like I can get new. What saves the hours and odometer? Is it the actual meter or something else? It would drive that dirty. Of course, I drained as much of the muddy water as I could, but it would top out at either 8 or 10 mph (by feel not meter lol).
 

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Look around here for what you need;
the meter keeps the distance and time, you'll get what the previous bike recorded.

10 m.p.h. sounds about right as the weights could not move for up-shift.
 

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It is likely water worked its way in, it did flood in 2016. I think it worked fine until about December 2016. Where it switched to just the backlight and the gear lights working. Now it has digressed further. I plan on cutting into the meter to see. It doesn't work anyway so what could it hurt?
that was salt water.
 
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