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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a used 07 special edition with 3000 km on it. First time out road for quite a while and it just died. No sputtering, backfiring or anything. The cluster goes dead and the red EPS light is on. Came on the forum and have been reading about the stator problem. This one does not have the updated cover and the plug has never even been removed...was a bugger to get it unplugged. Values on the stator seem to be 0.002, but I have to double check if my meter is set right (not that electronicly savy)

It has done it after longer riding as well as really short ride. let it sit for a minute or move the bike back and forth and it fires up again. when it dies there no power to the starter...doesn't click or do anything...just dead.

Wondering if anyone has any ideas?
 

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Hey..kcward..Welcome to GC from Wisconsin.

If the battery voltage drops to about 7 volts the injector closes and will not operate. Probably the stator but first check and clean the connections from the battery to the starter and ground. Recheck the resistance of the stator.
Getting a service manual will help now and in the future. Download at tradebits.com or or at a members website 501parts.com
 

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Charge up battery and see if it will restart. if it does put your voltmeter across battery terminals and read voltage. With bike reved uo a bit voltage should read a min of 13 volts or higher if its charging. If it is then its not stator or voltage reg. Check all battery connections grounds etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks,
I checked the battery and it was at 12.3v not running and when I started it the voltage climbe to 14.7 at idle. Re-checked the stator and it is at 0.4.
The ingnition coil is 4.2 on primary side and 13.5 at secondary without the plug end on. The plug end is 9.37 by itself. It always starts up again...just has a brain fart and dies and I have always been able to start it again in a few minutes. I will check out those sites and download the manual, as I'm not sure if these readings are in spec or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I thought I had it fixed by cleaning up the terminals - they were quite rusty and corroded on the battery. Took it up to our cabin and when I went to start it in the back of the truck I noticed that when I turned the key on the panel didn't lite up right away...it still started and then the panel lit up after that. I drove it for about 20km yesterday and everything was fine. Got home and went to start it in the back of the truck to unload and it won't fire...when I turned the key on it has a "click,click,click" Turns over fine, but doesn't start. Will have to check for spark tonight...not sure if it could be a relay? I checked the ignition coil and it was all in spec. I lifted all the relay's and fuses out to check wire connections on them and they seem good.

Anyone experienced this type of issue? I am new to the Grizzly, so learning as we go.

Thanks for your help,
ken
 

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When it wont start, spray a bit of starter fluid in the intake. If it starts and keeps running, it means your injector is not spraying fuel. If this is the case, it is likely a voltage issue. Just because the battery is saying it has proper volts does not mean it is good. Under load the voltage can drop below 10 and the injector will not fire.

Other wise check the relays on the right side of front cowl. See if it is your fuel pump relay which Is the middle one I believe but do not quote me on that. Do you hear your fuel pump fire when you turn the key on? Or just the clicks instead?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks...checked a couple of things

When it wont start, spray a bit of starter fluid in the intake. If it starts and keeps running, it means your injector is not spraying fuel. If this is the case, it is likely a voltage issue. Just because the battery is saying it has proper volts does not mean it is good. Under load the voltage can drop below 10 and the injector will not fire.

Other wise check the relays on the right side of front cowl. See if it is your fuel pump relay which Is the middle one I believe but do not quote me on that. Do you hear your fuel pump fire when you turn the key on? Or just the clicks instead?
I don't here the fuel pump - just the click...I can feel the one relay vibrating when it is clicking. It is the very front one left of the battery (if you are looking from the front of the machine)
I had the battery load tested at the yamaha dealer and it was not perfect, but was 10.5 under load. I also get the code on the cluster Er_1 now which is the ecu. I downloaded the service manual, I see where it says which relay is which, but not in regards to on the bike so I still don't know for sure which is which.

Not sure if I should put a new battery in to rule that out or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, was able to work on the Grizz last night again...picked up a new relay and replaced...no luck...still clicking. I disconnected the battery terminals, pulled every fuse to inspect and checked up behind the ignition switch for dirt ect...it was packed with mud up there. Put everything back together and presto...fuel pump working again and she fired up. No cluster though...wiggled the connector to the cluster display and it lit up.

Wiring seems a little to be desired on this bike...I think she did a lot of floating in the swamps!

Hopefully all is good now...thanks for the help everyone!
Ken
 

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Good to hear it's back and running.

Since you do not have the updated stator cover with oil cooling line, most agree it is recommended to run your oil at the highest hash mark, or slightly above, on the dip stick. The thought is there is a chance the oil will "better" splash to the upper parts of the stator to help prevent burnout.

You may also want to install a cheap voltage meter on the circuit to the battery to keep an eye on the voltage at 14.x V when applying throttle. Nice for piece of mind when kilometers from your vehicle.
 

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kcward- Glad you got it fixed. Winter time is coming, be a good time to start tearing into the wiring. Clean all connectors, then dielectric grease them. May save you some electrical nightmares further on down the road, especially since it's a 2007 and has seen the Swamp!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a chance to buy an 08 that looks a little cleaner and it has the oil line on the stator...manufactured 09/2008. The 07 has 3000 km and 08 2000, and I can pick it up for $900 less than I paid for the 07. What do you guys think? Should I buy the 08 and sell the 07?
 

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If the 08 was not beaten as bad as the 07 and in better shape, go for it. Sounds like the previous owner on the 08 knew what he was doing with Grizzlies. I would jump for that deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
2008 might be an 09

If the 08 was not beaten as bad as the 07 and in better shape, go for it. Sounds like the previous owner on the 08 knew what he was doing with Grizzlies. I would jump for that deal.
I went and looked at it again and it was manufactured in Sept 2008 and has the oil line on the cover like an 09'. Price is $4200 with 2000km. Has a warn winch aluminum guards, new mud bug tires and a windshield.

Just don't know how long it will take to sell the 07', hate having that money tied up. I think it is a pretty good deal though.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just found a vin decoder and this is what I got...so it is an 09'

VIN: JY4 AM13W 7 9 C006709

Yamaha
Manufacturer: Yamaha Motor Co Ltd
Manufacturer address: Quality Automotive Operations
2500 Shingai Iwata-Shi
438 Shizuoka-Ken
Product type: 4 Wheeler (Off Road)
Make: Yamaha
Check digit: 7
Model year: 2009
Plant code: Japan
Sequential number: 006709
 
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