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Discussion Starter #1
So I ended up with a EPI high elevation kit because I was forced to take a store credit on something else. Now the kit I have is WE391046 which is for a 700 grizzly 07 to 11. I know that the kit should work even though I have a 17. Just wondering if it is worth my time to install it or if I should just put it on kijiji? I has an orange spring 2 different size weights and 6 little springs.
 

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Your 700 has the equivalent to the orange spring, and the weights a probably lighter.
Installing the kit depends on what change you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your 700 has the equivalent to the orange spring, and the weights a probably lighter.
Installing the kit depends on what change you want.
I through 27 zillas on it and it took away from the bottom end. I am 100% happy with it but I am afraid I will burn the clutch out if I don't change anything. It just crawls like a tank now, so far unstoppable. I am in the midst of buying a Kodiak though. Lighter clutch weights will be a bonus
 

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I through 27 zillas on it and it took away from the bottom end. I am 100% happy with it but I am afraid I will burn the clutch out if I don't change anything. It just crawls like a tank now, so far unstoppable. I am in the midst of buying a Kodiak though. Lighter clutch weights will be a bonus
Somewhere I read on here you need to determine the true tire roll-out for your tires at your p.s.i. to know the additional drag from your taller tires.
It may feel O.K. now, but there have been a lot of new members join to say after a few hundred miles their ride crapped out.
If you want the stock feel you have to raise the pulley ratio by the same percentage as the roll-out increase from the new tires over the old tires.
You have to know the old tire roll-out and the stock pulley ratio to know what you have and what you need to change.
The bottom end take away was by a percentage equal to the roll-out increase percentage. I am thinking that is by percentage how much faster the wet clutch wears out.
The weights, the stall springs and the secondary spring you ordered do not change the pulley ratio, and that is why we tell other to stay away from kits.
As for the lighter weights being a bonus, that is only if you have the right weights for your riding style and conditions.
I use three different weight weights in combination with two different diameter covers, three different shims with or without a machined sheave, and three different secondary springs based upon the trail conditions and requirements for the day's ride.
I suggest you forget the kit exists and get a purple spring and 3 different shims to start with. A 1 mm, a .5 mm and a .2 mm shim.
Let us know what you decide.
 
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I through 27 zillas on it and it took away from the bottom end. I am 100% happy with it but I am afraid I will burn the clutch out if I don't change anything.
I doubt you'll ever burn out your clutch with 27" Zillas. Unless your down right abusive and never use Low range when you should.

My buddies run 27" tires on their stock clutched 660 and 700 for years with zero issues.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Somewhere I read on here you need to determine the true tire roll-out for your tires at your p.s.i. to know the additional drag from your taller tires.
It may feel O.K. now, but there have been a lot of new members join to say after a few hundred miles their ride crapped out.
If you want the stock feel you have to raise the pulley ratio by the same percentage as the roll-out increase from the new tires over the old tires.
You have to know the old tire roll-out and the stock pulley ratio to know what you have and what you need to change.
The bottom end take away was by a percentage equal to the roll-out increase percentage. I am thinking that is by percentage how much faster the wet clutch wears out.
The weights, the stall springs and the secondary spring you ordered do not change the pulley ratio, and that is why we tell other to stay away from kits.
As for the lighter weights being a bonus, that is only if you have the right weights for your riding style and conditions.
I use three different weight weights in combination with two different diameter covers, three different shims with or without a machined sheave, and three different secondary springs based upon the trail conditions and requirements for the day's ride.
I suggest you forget the kit exists and get a purple spring and 3 different shims to start with. A 1 mm, a .5 mm and a .2 mm shim.
Let us know what you decide.
Thank you for your input as this info will come in very handy down the road. I did a lot of reading on here and even asked about changing tire size and it was a general consensuses that going up 1 size would have little effect and not require clutching. I did the research, Found that Zilla's run about 1" smaller then advertised and were extremely light. So I bought 27"(26) zilla's to replace 26(24 1/2 is what I measured) maxxis AT. It has made it a little more sluggish but I can still pop the tires. When I say like a tank what I mean is I am the kind that crawls into a mud hole and not hit it ball's out. So far it don't spin just crawls through. Don't get me wrong, it can spin just fine. The bike is still under warranty and this is why i was asking about and said I wanted to do nothing to do with clutching yet. I had also read that the general consequences here is that clutch kits are a waste of money but seeing as I was only given an in store credit and the said store cost me about $20 round trip for gas, I figured that I would just take the kit and be done with it. If it worked fine, if not I know a few guys with older grizzly's that might take it off my hands. Once the Warranty is up I will start modding but I don't want to get into that just yet
 
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