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Discussion Starter #1
It's time for another fluid change on my '17 Kodiak, so I've been reading up on what fluids everyone runs but it seems like there's a lot of controversy between using Yamalube and other brands so I just wanted to know what people use and why they prefer their brand, normally I let my stealership do it to make my life easier but recent events have made me distrust them so I'd rather do it myself but I don't feel like buying the seemingly overpriced yamalube from them if there are better options out there.

Also I had read about someone using 303 Hydraulic oil that they sell at tractor supply in their diffs, beings the Kodiak is on the farm and I have 55 gallon drums of the stuff I wanted to know if I could use that in my diffs, and how well it would work.

I'd appreciate any advice people have to offer.
 

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It's time for another fluid change on my '17 Kodiak, so I've been reading up on what fluids everyone runs but it seems like there's a lot of controversy between using Yamalube and other brands so I just wanted to know what people use and why they prefer their brand, normally I let my stealership do it to make my life easier but recent events have made me distrust them so I'd rather do it myself but I don't feel like buying the seemingly overpriced yamalube from them if there are better options out there.

Also I had read about someone using 303 Hydraulic oil that they sell at tractor supply in their diffs, beings the Kodiak is on the farm and I have 55 gallon drums of the stuff I wanted to know if I could use that in my diffs, and how well it would work.

I'd appreciate any advice people have to offer.
Don't use anything other than this for your rear final drive: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/774/38281/Yamalube-Friction-Modified-Shaft-Drive-Gear-Oil you need to use that specific oil because of the sealed wet brake. One bottle will last you the life of the atv.

For the hydraulic fluid, I didn't see anywhere that said it was API GL-4 or GL-5 to make it compatible with the front diff. Only run that stuff if you can find specs saying it meets either of those. If it were me, I'd get a dedicated bottle of 75w90 or 80w90 for it. It's inexpensive insurance getting the right stuff.

For engine oil, run what you prefer, as long as it is wet clutch safe, meaning it has JASO MA or MA2 rating.

I never ran Yamalube or ProHonda anything in my life. Ever. It's just overpriced labels you're paying for. Until I got the 450 with the wet brake. Yamalube and Yamalube only in that rear final drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will be on my merry way to an auto parts tomorrow, got an oil filter recommendation by chance? Some say OEM some say aftermarket is the way to go, after hours of reading I still have no idea what to choose, I was thinking of just using a NAPA gold because it's the name I've seen most when talking about oil filters.
 

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I will be on my merry way to an auto parts tomorrow, got an oil filter recommendation by chance? Some say OEM some say aftermarket is the way to go, after hours of reading I still have no idea what to choose, I was thinking of just using a NAPA gold because it's the name I've seen most when talking about oil filters.
I've run NAPA Gold multiple times with no issue. The reason I don't run OEM is because Yamaha just re-labels one from the company they contract to make them. There's nothing special about them. But other guys choose OEM cause they're more confident in that, and you can't fault that line of thought either.
 

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I run Rotella t6 oil in both the grizzly 550 and Kodiak 700 to be honest it's in everything i own . I run whatever filter I can get the cheapest. Been running super tech st9688 from Walmart for the last few changes. I run regular old gear oil in the grizzly differentials and the Kodiak front . And use travelers premium hydraulic fluid from tractor supply in the rear of the Kodiak. I'm sure alot will tell you not to run what I do but to each their own it works fine for me
 

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And use travelers premium hydraulic fluid from tractor supply in the rear of the Kodiak. I'm sure alot will tell you not to run what I do but to each their own it works fine for me
Hey, if it works, it works. If I had to change the rear final drive often, I'd probably do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How many miles/hours have you run with the Travellers hydraulic fluid, and have you noticed any difference in braking or wearing? (Metal shavings when changing diff oil)
Like I said, we have tons of buckets and drums of hydraulic Fluids of all types, including Travellers, so if it works decently I might use that to make my life easier, if I have to I'll even change it out more often.
 

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We only have 1500 miles 175 hours on the Kodiak. I haven't seen any metal flakes the fluid hasn't smelled burnt brakes still working like the day it was brought home.i know that my rzr doesn't have wet brakes. But it does have over 5000 miles on the front differential using mostly hydraulic fluid. I looked at it like this if the hydraulic fluid can hold up in our 300 hp tractor in the transmission differentials and hydraulic pumps . What few hp our Ride's have want break down the fluid in years much less a few months of riding
 

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Amsoil. :icon_ goofy:
 

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Rotella t6 in my Griz. Bel-ray 80-90 hypoid gear oil in the diffs. No wet brake here, though.
 

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I buy Yamalube 10W-40 by the case (12 liters) from my dealer and it works out to $8.50 Liter vice $11.00 liter if bought individually. My dealer is not far away. I also use the same oil in my Yamaha FJ-09 Sport Touring Bike and Kawasaki KLR 650 Duel Sport bike also, so I use quite a bit of Yamalube.

I probably change the oil way to frequently than required at around 500 km's. I only change the filter every 2nd Oil change. The bikes I change the Oil at 3000 km's.

For the Front Diff and Rear Final Drive, I use Yamalube 80W-90 Gear oil.

I have been using the OEM Oil Filter but find it very expensive ($22.00 Cad). I may check out the NAPA Gold one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I needed the oil quite desperately and didn't have time to go to a NAPA near me, so on my way back from work I saw a Yamaha dealer and decided to just swing by and get what I needed.
I regret that decision. Almost 70 bucks for 3 quarts of oil, a filter and gear oil. Seems a little much if you ask me, but like I said, I needed the Kodiak to be operational ASAP as it's used on the farm. Next time I'll pick up the stuff I need 10 or so hours before it needs serviced, and hopefully I won't have to pay nearly extreme prices. I will definitely keep all of your recommendations in mind, so I appreciate everyone chiming in.
 

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I needed the oil quite desperately and didn't have time to go to a NAPA near me, so on my way back from work I saw a Yamaha dealer and decided to just swing by and get what I needed.
I regret that decision. Almost 70 bucks for 3 quarts of oil, a filter and gear oil. Seems a little much if you ask me, but like I said, I needed the Kodiak to be operational ASAP as it's used on the farm. Next time I'll pick up the stuff I need 10 or so hours before it needs serviced, and hopefully I won't have to pay nearly extreme prices. I will definitely keep all of your recommendations in mind, so I appreciate everyone chiming in.
I feel your pain... I dropped a bill on fluids for our rzr recently. Same deal as you. I was in a bind and needed to get it serviced before our last trip. I’m not 100% confident in running other brands in the Popo. They break easy as it is. lol
 

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I will be on my merry way to an auto parts tomorrow, got an oil filter recommendation by chance? Some say OEM some say aftermarket is the way to go, after hours of reading I still have no idea what to choose, I was thinking of just using a NAPA gold because it's the name I've seen most when talking about oil filters.
A lot of the filters are made by Champion so you're getting basically the same filter anyway. I've always used the Wal Mart Supertech filters if I can find them - in my cars (even high performance sports cars!) and race bikes. For approximately $3, the Supertech is the same filter as the $15 Bosch and the $10 Mobil1. Just DO NOT USE FRAM! They're the most expensive of the "cheap" filters, but are the worst of the worst. Pick any other cheap brand if you must.

I run Rotella t6 oil in both the grizzly 550 and Kodiak 700 to be honest it's in everything i own . I run whatever filter I can get the cheapest. Been running super tech st9688 from Walmart for the last few changes. I run regular old gear oil in the grizzly differentials and the Kodiak front . And use travelers premium hydraulic fluid from tractor supply in the rear of the Kodiak. I'm sure alot will tell you not to run what I do but to each their own it works fine for me
I had to look twice to make sure I didn't write this post. :wink2:
Rotella T6 has been my go-to for all of my vehicles for the last 10 years or so. I could use same oil in my car and my motorcycles (even wet clutch systems!). If you're skeptical, just look at the T6 ratings. Anything from diesels to cars to motorcycles to ATVs.
That ST9688 is the same filter my current car uses too. In the past, my bikes and car used the same model filter as well.

Here's some good reading and a cross-reference guide for filters. You do not have to pay a premium for a "motorsports" filter.
https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My only worry about filters is everyone telling me that there are different bypass pressures and it can drastically effect oil pressure causing engine failure and so on, I don't want to risk jeopardizing my $8,000 dollar machine for a couple bucks, that said I also don't want to spend more for the same quality or lower quality if there are better options.
 

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My only worry about filters is everyone telling me that there are different bypass pressures and it can drastically effect oil pressure causing engine failure and so on, I don't want to risk jeopardizing my $8,000 dollar machine for a couple bucks, that said I also don't want to spend more for the same quality or lower quality if there are better options.
The same thing is said about motorcycles and their filters all the time...
I know a LARGE community of high-performance sportbike riders. I also know a very large percentage of them run automotive filters and have for years, decades, etc., including myself. Independent testing was also done by many of the ones who like to tinker with stuff like that. You know that well-known, extra-expensive motorsports brand of filter (K&N)? Most racers won't touch them due to a higher failure rate than the others, and tests have found their filter media to be inferior. I strongly believe that the oil filter market is one in which you DON'T get what you pay for. The $3 SuperTech Walmart filters have never failed me after 10 years of changing oil in something-or-another every month. At the race track, my bikes are run at redline for extended periods of time too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Finally got around to changing the fluids out and my God the Rotella fixed my number one complaint, which was in high it felt like the clutch was slipping (it was jumpy and wouldn't really move) up until about 1/4th throttle, now it grabs almost immediately. I'm wondering if maybe the dealership had used the wrong oil and it was slipping?
 
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