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So i have a 2001 grizzly 600 which im pretty sure the bendix is mess up. Cause when i first got it in 2011 the starter relay on the rear fender was bad and one day it started too start by it self and wouldn't stop and it also started up and the starter still was spinning..

So by the time i got too the battery too unplugged all the starter does is free spin now so sense than i been using the pull start which can be a pain in the ass cause the rope broke 2 times sense i own it..

Now if you on a hill and have someone push you and hit the starter button sometimes it will engage and start. i replaced the relay that week tho so that's not a issue anymore.

But how easy is it too replace the bendix? I noticed they pretty cheap at 20 to 30$ on ebay than back than when they was 70+.

I really hope its not the flywheel gear that's mess up cause i see those going for 300$....
 

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Replacing it is not hard. You'll need to pull the engine side cover off to replace it. You'll need a new gasket for this, and a couple litres of oil as you need to drain it.
 

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Replacing it is not hard. You'll need to pull the engine side cover off to replace it. You'll need a new gasket for this, and a couple litres of oil as you need to drain it.

Cool i think its time too finally get this going instead of using the rope lol

Really never had a issue pulling it sense i found the trick doing it by pulling it slowly once than the next pull it one little till you find the compression a notch than pull but yea every time you pull you risk breaking that dam rope lol..

I wont need too pull the fly wheel too get it out tho?


Yea i found one on ebay that comes with the gasket for 25$ shipped. i remember back than they was going for 70+ :)
 

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Left engine cover and rotor must come off to install Bendix (starter idler)

Obtain a pair of 600 head bolts to use with the flat plate type puller, to remove the rotor.

You can search my posts for prior writeups on this procedure, plus reinstall.

Be sure to inspect the teeth on the rotor to see that there's going to be enough engagement between the idler and the rotor. If not, sooner or later, the remaining teeth on the rotor will be gnawed out, and you'll have to use the recoil pull to get past that spot.

When you pull the rotor, use the original bolt to screw into the crankshaft end, to protect that face end of the crankshaft. Make sure there's some slack between the rotor and the inner bolt head face, so the pull can occur.

It will go BANG when it comes off, usually.

So, tighten up the puller a bit, and slug the head of the puller center bolt to cause the rotor to pop loose.

Beware that there's serious magnet on the rotor, and don't let anything stick in there, like (bolts, nuts, iron filings, trash) or anything else.

Clean anything you find on the magnets, and store it in a plastic bag while you're messing around getting ready to put it all back together.

k
 
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