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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I'm new to the forum and Grizzly ownership.

I've a 2004'ish 660 with who knows what all done to it previously.

Yesterday after riding for about an hour, my Grizz stopped driving the wheels and the selector switch was locked in high and still running.

After towing it back to the barn, Here's what I see:
1. gear indicators light up
2. gear selector successfully moves the selector rod
3. in H, L, R no movement by way of the throttle
4. while in H,L,R, it does not roll easily (as expected)
5. Neutral it rolls fine

I recently (+/- 10 hours) replaced the clutch/clutch housing/one way bearing and all the other goodies associated with the right side clutch. The belt looked good so I did not replace it.

Any thoughts or ideas as to where to start would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Yeti
 

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I am thinking stripped splines, broken belt or blown wet clutch. The stripped splines would be on the primary, whether it be the camplate splines, inner sheave splines or both.....or the nut has come loose/off and allowed the camplate splines to seperate.

You won't know for sure until you pull the clutch cover.

When you did all the work to the clutch, did you make sure the camplate splined were completely engaged/meshed before installing the washer and nut?
Did you make sure the washer was centered before tightening the nut?
Did you use a torque wrench and tighten the nut to proper torque?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Dezz,
Thanks for the response.


When you did all the work to the clutch, did you make sure the camplate splined were completely engaged/meshed before installing the washer and nut?
Did you make sure the washer was centered before tightening the nut?
Did you use a torque wrench and tighten the nut to proper torque?
For the cam plate, I did make sure it had the extra "drop" and was fully engaged and did Torque it to spec.

Now, for the washer being "centered"? I have nothing.

I'll pull the CVT side off and see what I see. That is the only thing that makes sense to me but some of this (CVT) is new to me and I don't know what I don't know.
 

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So I now know what you mean about centering the washer. The cam plate nut spun off and got embedded in the cage. Just spent the better part of two hours rethreading the nut and clutch housing. It's not ideal but it works.

I noticed my Loctite was completely non existent. I'm guessing I had grease somewhere when I put it back together the first time.

Thanks again for the help
 

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Sorry to hear about your issues on the Griz. You shouldn't have to use loctite on that nut though. If it got beat up pretty bad, I would suggest you get a new one - you don't want it coming off again. One other thing to check is to make sure that the belt isn't being pinched in the primary sheave as you are torquing the primary nut. That will also interfere with getting the nut up to torque spec.
 

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You should not use that nut again. It is now trashed. Get a new nut.

The belt must "not" be installed when you torque down the primary nut. The belt is the last thing to be installed before the cage and cover is reinstalled.

With belt removed, install the primary clutch assembly on the shaft. Make sure splines are fully engaged on the camplate. Install washer and nut. Center the washer, then finger tighten nut to hold it. Use a torque wrench and torque to 85 ft. lbs.
You'll have to come up with a way to hold the clutch from rotating while you torque it. Do a search as there us several different ways people do it.

Loctite is not required. A properly installed nut will not come off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I ordered the nut, last night. For the belt, if you use 2 of the case nuts to compress the secondary the belt is nothing to take off/ put on.

To keep the primary in place was a simple matter of two 2x4 and 2 bolts similar to a wood vice.

AS for using loctite or not. I'm very particular about making certain bolts are torqued to the exact manufacturers specs but unless a dry bolt is designed to be removed often, I do the blue.
 
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