Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys I'm kind of a newb in this aspect, but I've owned my 700 new since 07, has about 1400 miles on original everything (except tires and fluids), that included the belt too lol. But my question is, what do I do to go faster here, this is the noobiest of all questions I know, and I feel retarded for asking. Right now the machine has the Pod Mod set to -10, a power tip, and a dirty air filter lol now I know I have to absolutely change the belt, filter, and plug but what do I do to make the machine faster. I have and always will have stock 25" sized tires, so would one of these badass machined clutches from hunter works or airdam do me well? I'm sick of getting my ass dragged by other big bore atv's!! And by faster I mean I don't mind sacrificing a few mph in top end, but if I can get there way faster, or does when you stretch the ratio out and keeping the engine at a lower rpm work better?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
I know about the big three, air box mods, fuel controller and exhaust. I think Barker makes the best exhaust for these. I had true duals on my 700 raptor, and sounded awesome, and made some good power. Check out EHS Racing, they have a vid of a pretty fast grizz. Of course there is CVT stuff you can do, let the experts explain that lol. I have a purple spring that I want to install for the past 6 months!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
EHS Racing big 3 package with barker duals, and a dynatek ignition coil/cdi for higher revving. If you're into motor mods, contact EHS racing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,214 Posts
Your belts fine, no need to change it. That's not many miles. If your running 25's a machined primary isn't necessary. What's your budget? Going a little faster can be cheap, going a lot faster isn't cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,214 Posts
See I'm wondering if I need and exhaust/controller because I have the tip and the pod mod
The barkers slip on is better than a tip, the barkers duals are a way better improvement. Pod mod only helps very low in the range. If you want to go bigger down the road get the duals for sure. Don't waste money on any exhaust other than barkers, barkers is great quality and best for power. Dont waste money on any simple fuel tuner other than Ehs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,390 Posts
I've been preaching adjust your valves. Recently I adjusted mine for the second time. This time I must have hit the perfect adjustment cause the 700 has never been quicker or faster.
Make sure the throttle is opening fully.
Where do or how do you ride?

Sent from my ME172V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,214 Posts
I've been preaching adjust your valves. Recently I adjusted mine for the second time. This time I must have hit the perfect adjustment cause the 700 has never been quicker or faster.
Make sure the throttle is opening fully.
Where do or how do you ride?

Sent from my ME172V using Tapatalk
Good point. No matter how much money you put into mods they are worthless if they are on a machine that's not running 100% what it can be to start with.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,288 Posts
The stock tires are your biggest problem, but do as you want. Check it with G.P.S. to see for yourself.
After you get the engine tuned tires that measure 26.5" true make the odo correct. Then a few C.V.T. mods can help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,214 Posts
The stock tires are your biggest problem, but do as you want. Check it with G.P.S. to see for yourself.
After you get the engine tuned tires that measure 26.5" true make the odo correct. Then a few C.V.T. mods can help.
I see no disadvantage to true/big 26" tires either. Especially if you were thinking of buying a machined primary anyway. To each his own I suppose.

And I take back my comment on machining the primary with 25's. I think with a machined clutch and heavier weights it would accelerate faster. Lower starting ratio to get it moving and than heavier weights to push the acceleration. Ridgeway proved that. It's also known that lighter weights kill wheelies - you need acceleration to wheelie.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,288 Posts
I've ran my machine with 26.5" tires against a G.P.S. receiver.
When my machine indicated 20 mph, a stock machine like mine running side by side indicated 26 mph.
When I bumped up the 40 mph, the stock grizz indicated 52 mph.
Then when I bumped up to 60 mph, the stock machine could not go 78 mph indicated and fell back.
Then I still had more to go.
Both machine had stock C.V.T.s for that test.
Then I added machining and shim for better take-off, heavier weights for quicker up-shift and a cut cam plate to prevent top speed loss from the shim.
I do this with a stock 660 engine, opened air box lid and a 2" exhaust tip.
Its the tire circumference (roll-out) that caused the shorter tires to turn more times over a given distance.
Over a mile the stock tires turn 856 times. That is a 74" roll-out.
Over a mile the 26.5" tires turn 763 times. That is a 83" roll-out.

My suggestion is get the engine tuned for best out-put, get the transmission geared correctly, tune-up the C.V.T. then add engine power.
I worked for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
There are some disadvantages to adding tires Jim, like the cost. It's a good suggestion but he is happy with stock tires and he wants aftermarket clutching to put more power to the ground, not to the heavier 26.5 Bighorns.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
464 Posts
Guys I'm kind of a newb in this aspect, but I've owned my 700 new since 07, has about 1400 miles on original everything (except tires and fluids), that included the belt too lol. But my question is, what do I do to go faster here, this is the noobiest of all questions I know, and I feel retarded for asking. Right now the machine has the Pod Mod set to -10, a power tip, and a dirty air filter lol now I know I have to absolutely change the belt, filter, and plug but what do I do to make the machine faster. I have and always will have stock 25" sized tires, so would one of these badass machined clutches from hunter works or airdam do me well? I'm sick of getting my ass dragged by other big bore atv's!! And by faster I mean I don't mind sacrificing a few mph in top end, but if I can get there way faster, or does when you stretch the ratio out and keeping the engine at a lower rpm work better?

You wanna go fast then I have the answer for you but it comes with a price.

Universal Turbo KIT Yamaha Grizzly Raptor 600 660 700 | eBay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
What woke my 2009 700 grizz up the most was the Hunter works machined primary, 18 gram roller weights and a Purple Secondary spring.
I did the primary clutch first, the machined primary from hunter works and a 0.5mm shim installed as well. I was then getting some belt slip on hard acceleration, so I installed the Secondary Spring. I actually bought a Dalton Metallic red secondary (same Specs as EPI purple). this stopped the slipping.
I was running 27" tires.
The lighter roller weights make a huge difference as well. with 20gram weights (which is about stock,, think stock is about 21grams) I could not hit 95kmh (59mph). With the 18 gram weights I blasted that.. 104kmh (65 mph). this is on the same stretch of ice on a frozen lake. Studded tires for grip.
With the sheave I could roll along so slow in High range, the speedo didnt even read 1 mph... Then blast the throttle and it would stand right up. before the Sheave, 2mph in Low range was as slow as the bike would roll before the clutch kicked out. I was so blown away by this Hunterworks Machined sheave, Id never own another grizzly without one. Id factor it right into the price when buying a new bike. Im sure the other brands are just as good. I only have experience with Hunterworks. It was also the cheapest for me.. I did not want to send my clutch away and have it machined as I live in Canada and the shipping cost and waiting time was to much. Just waiting for the Hunterworks to arrive was a painful 10 days for me. I'm impatient. haha.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,288 Posts
There are some disadvantages to adding tires Jim, like the cost. It's a good suggestion but he is happy with stock tires and he wants aftermarket clutching to put more power to the ground, not to the heavier 26.5 Bighorns.
I know the cost of taller tires, I got 150 bucks in mine. So because he said he would always stay with stock sized tires I should have said it can't be done if that's his ultimate choice, forget about going faster and let it go at that. He may find a set of taller used tires for cheap if he knows the benefits in helping him go faster.

He wants to go faster and specifically ask 'What do I do to go faster'. Taller tire makes the grizz go faster without touching the engine. As for the Bighorn deal, I don't care what tires someone else runs, its just that all my testing has been with the O.G.'s against the stock grizzly tires.

I gave him the hint IF he wanted to get into the discussion about tire sizes. He could learn what he really has to get over what he thinks he has to make an educated choice about making his 700 go faster. But maybe he is just screwed.

On stock grizzly tires, which are not 25"s tall if you want to do the math and learn, he can install all the power mods. a grizz will hold and not change the ability to increase top speed other than with an increase in the top end rpm rev limiter setting. Is it smart to run the engine faster than the parts were designed to go?

With stock tires a machined primary will not increase the grizzly top speed. It will change how the power gets to the ground and make the power application different.

The theory of tire weight slowing a machine is about 99% wrong. I added heavier tires to my grizz and the grizz top speed increased without touching the C.V.T. Anybody know why? Why do the N.H.R.A. guys use a tire that grows in size (diameter)? It changes the effective drive-line gearing. With a smaller tire (one that does not grow) the same car with the same power would go slower and not win unless the other car didn't make it to the finish line. Grizzlys have more power than most give them credit for. Yamaha engineers the stock configuration for poor rider so they don't get into trouble easily. Many of us here on G.C. turn up the performance and top speed is one of the things that change.

The drag to the drive-line system from taller tires is the increased tire diameter affecting the true tire circumference or roll-out as I call it. This changes the effective gearing of the drive system.

When I put my taller tires on, the performance from a stop sucked. In fact that first ride on the new tires WAS the reason I joined G.C. I needed to ask a couple questions.

What I learned was things are not as they seem with the grizzly. Like most others I though the stock grizz tires were 25"s because that's what it said. WRONG! They are about 23.5"s

My question was how could increasing the tire diameter 1" make such a big difference. Someone else said Hey Dumb Ass, your stock tires were shorter than stated and your new tires are taller than stated. The true difference is closer to 3 inches.

Its a gearing/ratio thing that I fixed with C.V.T. mods to let the grizz go faster with the taller tires.

In the end the O.P. may not like his tires as much as he thinks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
On stock grizzly tires, which are not 25"s tall if you want to do the math and learn, he can install all the power mods. a grizz will hold and not change the ability to increase top speed other than with an increase in the top end rpm rev limiter setting. Is it smart to run the engine faster than the parts were designed to go?



With stock tires a machined primary will not increase the grizzly top speed. It will change how the power gets to the ground

You are wrong.
A machined sheave has the upper part of the roller channels machined for more top speed.
PLUS... Unless you are hitting the rev limiter with stock tires, larger tires will only slow you down from extra weight. If you're not hitting the rev limiter then your grizzly does not have enough power to hit top speed, and needs power mods to go faster.

From reading the OP's thread again, he does not want more top speed even though the thread title is more speed. He seems more concerned with getting to top speed faster. Smaller lighter tires will be better for This that larger heavy tires. A Machined sheave with slightly lighter weights will also help drastically with this. Your ultimate goal is to hit the rev limiter and hit it as quickly as possible. Once you can hit it, you adjust clutching or even tire size to make it so you can barely hit it. This ensures you're going as fast as the power you have will allow.



2015 CanAm 800xt, Dalton clutch kit, 27" STI Black Diamond XTR's
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,288 Posts
I was, and still can get to the rev limiter with both size tires.
I tried lighter weights and gave them away because they reduced the top speed over 20% and mpg by 50%. They made the engine run faster at lower ground speed.
Do you run stock weights in your longer channels?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
I had stock weights, 20 gram greaseless and 18 gram greasless. I never ran my machine with stock tires. I bought it with 26" mud bugs. I switched to 27" black diamond XTR's, then to 25" bighorn OGs then back to 27" XTR's again then to 26" maxxis Viprs. I could not hit the rev limiter with any of the tires. I started with stock clutch setup, then went hunterworks, with 18 gram weights. Yes it revved more, but still never a rev limiter,It was faster accelerating with the 18's, just not faster on top.. On ice one time in 2wd sitting in one place spinning WIde open. The machine showed 121 kmh (75.6 mph) when the rev limiter cut in. My grizzly wouldn't have near enough power to pull it to this speed while driving but basically free spinning, that was the top end. I had a muffler tip, air box mods and a fuel controller as well, still no rev limiter while riding, even with a tail wind and driving downhill.


2015 CanAm 800xt, Dalton clutch kit, 27" STI Black Diamond XTR's
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,390 Posts
A funny thing about the CVT is that once everything (torque,load,HP)planes out it wants to return to a 1:1 ratio. This has more to do with the secondary. The spring controls speed and the helix controls torque.
No matter what roller weights you run at certain point the rollers are flat out then the engine needs the juice to get that top end.
At 30,40,50 mph the CVT will want to return to a 1:1 unless you add more HP or load.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,518 Posts
To go fast you need to go into the motor. A simple 734 top end with megacycle x4 cam, +2 valves with porting, +3 bore on the TB, barkers duals, fuel controller and KN filter, dynatech CDI will get you some gains. You will need to lighten up the clutch weights though significantly (all 14's). You will be able to keep up with some pretty fast quads. Biggest gains for the buck. After that you need to go stroker crank.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top