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How about high beam bulbs to go in the low beam lights? 2022

1957 Views 47 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  89sandman
Just wondering if anyone had ever put high beam bulbs in the low beam lights. I have a 22 and have a front box so my handlebar headlight is mostly blocked. Been doing a lot of mods lately and am running out of motivation to fab up a light bar.
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My 21 grizzly has high/low in the fenders and the handlebar light comes on with high beam. I to have a front bag or a gun rack depending on the season so I installed a 8" single row LED light on the front of my rack on the bottom of rack and tied it into the handlebar light with proper plugs so on high beam my fener lights are on and the light bar. Huge difference and no glare from handlebar light. Very simple job and it all looks very clean and I can go back to handlebar light if I ever want to just plug and play.
I tried that same setup but the light bar I got kept blowing the circuit. I ended up giving it's own harness and switch.
Took a crappy little video of the LED headlights. I was too tired and cold to make a good video after my Camso track install :)

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Forget the headlights, let's see those tracks!
Update: I’m officially an idiot! I’ll be darned if this thing doesn’t have high and low beams on the grill lights. I just put an interrupter switch on the 3rd headlight so I can now have high beams and not be blinded while carrying a load on the front rack. Thanks for straightening me out on this fellas!
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Forget the headlights, let's see those tracks!
Posted a few pics over on my thread


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Well with the high beams working it really isn't that much better than before especially going up hill. The high beams just light above the low. Instead of mixing and making it brighter. The quad transfers so much to the rear that the lights end up in the trees under hard acceleration. Don't want to stiffen the rear and they aren't anywhere near bright enough at any speed above 20 anyway. So I guess a lightbar is the only answer :(
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I took mine out last night to see how it worked with just the grill lights (now that I can cancel the handlebar light). Cycled between high and low and the difference was minimal. Oh well, I just putt around at night anyhow.
Probably not a very reasonable solution, but I had been looking at pulling the headlights out and mounting some round LEDs from Rigid in their place. Would require a bit of custom mounting though. Light bar would be the easiest solution and I’m sure would function very well.
Probably not a very reasonable solution, but I had been looking at pulling the headlights out and mounting some round LEDs from Rigid in their place. Would require a bit of custom mounting though. Light bar would be the easiest solution and I’m sure would function very well.
Add a light bar or pods and tie them to your high beam wire. That way you still have a high beam and low beam function. If you just swap out the lights for round LEDs from rigid you only going to have one beam pattern, mind you it will be bright lol
Good point. Pretty sure I’ll do exactly that. Plus add a switch to independently switch the handlebar headlight off.
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Just check the current draw on the bar you plan to get. My 80W light bar was enough to pop the high beam fuse within a few seconds of turning it on. Like I said earlier I was forced to buy a separate wiring harness for it.
I haven’t thought it through yet, but I think I can integrate a relay to solve those types of issues.
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Does anyone know how many watts you can run? I was thinking of mounting one from the reflector brackets which is about 28 and a half inches. Most of the 28 inch lights I've seen are 120-180 watts. I will use a relay with a direct power source from the battery with my disconnected handlebar headlight wiring for the exciter wire so it will only work on high beam setting.
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From another thread I started it was identified that the Grizz puts out 462W or 33 amps at 14v. That’s at 5000rpm. Just a starting point to work from. I’m not certain on the baseline draw the Grizzly has when running with all accessories off. Need to figure that out, I think.

Also, thanks for thinking through the wiring. I plan to do the same, but with an added fuse block that will also be wired with a relay (w/ ignition on as the exciter)
A couple things to think of,
All electrical components are powered by the battery not the stator.
The stator charges and recharges the battery as it is drawn down.

The fuse size is designed to protect the wire and switching gear that are used in the circuit not the end component.

If you ride more on cold nights or plow a lot the stator may not keep the battery topped off.
Daytime trail riding will keep the battery charged.

IF you have a good battery connected properly.
Does anyone know how many watts you can run? I was thinking of mounting one from the reflector brackets which is about 28 and a half inches. Most of the 28 inch lights I've seen are 120-180 watts. I will use a relay with a direct power source from the battery with my disconnected handlebar headlight wiring for the exciter wire so it will only work on high beam setting.
Hey FYI before you buy a bar check the depth. I found that the foward rack supports will get in the way of most bars. I had to find a real thin bar (about 1.5in depth) in order to fit the space and even that one I needed to notch out the cooling fins. Luckily I didn't have to notch all the way down to the case.

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Does anyone know how many watts you can run? I was thinking of mounting one from the reflector brackets which is about 28 and a half inches. Most of the 28 inch lights I've seen are 120-180 watts. I will use a relay with a direct power source from the battery with my disconnected handlebar headlight wiring for the exciter wire so it will only work on high beam setting.
I recall that the 12V ACC plug has a 10A fuse so you should be safe adding aftermarket electrical items to at least 10a. As for lighting, quality over quantity. There is no real need for a 28" light bar. I know CK700 didn't seem to be a fan of DiodeDynamics but I am very pleased with the light bar I have. I have a DiodeDynamics Stage Series 6" SAE/DOT White Light Bar (SAE DOT Driving) and it puts out great light and much better than a recommended 12" dual row cree LED light bar I got off of amazon. In the following pictures, I do also have two cheap 3" fog lamps directed towards the sides to fill in side lighting but only used them because I already had them otherwise I wouldn't have bothered. The DD 6" light I have puts out excellent light for riding at night.

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To add to RedRocket;

Pretty much every trail ride I do end up in complete darkness (I am a late riser) I count on my 2 front and 1 rear 6" diode dynamics and damn these are the best light bars for the bucks I've seen. (Though they bumped the prices in the last months)

I have one front driving pattern, 1 front fog pattern and 1 rear fog pattern (will replace with flood soon).

The light bars are solid, the beam pattern is perfect, and the color temperature is not to cold contrary to cheaper LEDs I've used. I also love that you can separately buy new lenses for two reasons: if yours gets scratched up or damaged, cheap (like 5$) replacement, or to quickly change the beam pattern (like I'll do with my rear fog to flood pattern) without buying a new light bar.

The wattage is also pretty low as I use only 50 watts with my 2 front bars on, so I have headroom for all my heated equipments. The huge cheap ones draw watts like alcoholics and you could end-up with a weak or dead battery These are my favorite add-on on my bike.


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So do you guys think you need one or 2 6 inch lights for riding at speeds of 40-50mph? It would be $240 for 2 six inch or they make a 12 inch for $200 plus the heavy duty wiring kit is another $40. The problem I have with just the fender lights is at speeds above 20 I outrun the light and the light is no where near bright enough. I don't do a lot of night riding, try to get back to the truck within a hour after dark. But sometimes it is later and even if it's only 10 minutes I would rather have decent lights.
I can't say I've trail ridden, dirt road ridden in the dark running 40-50 mph to know for sure but I feel the lighting I have is very sufficient to do that. I would be fine with the single 6" light but do like the added fog cubes pointed to the sides. Do I need those? No. Will I remove them? No. The 3" cubes I have are cheapy Auxbeam lights that were purchased on amazon for roughly $20. I don't buy additional wiring harnesses as I do my own which are run off of my fuse block that is relay energized by the keyed on ACC wire.
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