First of all, I cannot take credit for this fix...I was searching around the WWW and I found a thread on another forum about this and the author had posted pics and a small how-to....however, I can take credit for taking the pics (below) and describing this fix to the members of GC since it has not been posted on this site!!! I have not taken my Grizz out for a ride yet, but I'm sure hoping this will be the end of my fuel gauge blues!!!!
Enough already, on to the situation:
Quite a number of folks have reported that their fuel gauge indicator on the pod is highly inaccurate and starts flashing empty when the tank is nearly full, and this includes myself. For me, this was driving me crazy and I could no longer stand looking at the this blinkin' fuel gauge all the time. My Grizzly is still under warranty and my dealer is only 10 minutes away, but it's a hastle to take the quad down there, try to explain the gauge only works when it's not on the trail and try to get warranty work done....forget it, I wanted to perform this fix myself...that way I know all of the bolts are re-torqued to spec, my rear fender will not get damaged and at the same time when the rear fender is off, I can do some major cleaning and detailing to the parts that are not easily accesible.
Step 1. Remove rear rack and rear fenders. (Tip - get yourself a magnetic tray for the hardware)
Step 2. (optional, but recommended) Clean the whole top area of the fuel tank and connections and thoroughly dry...this will help to avoid any contaminants from falling into the tank.
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Step 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connection...be careful not to crack the connector, mine was stiff to remove.
Step 4. Disconnect the fuel line...see the service manual for the proper procedure of removing this clip...again, be careful not to snap this connector. Note: very little fuel leaked out.
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Step 5. Remove the six acorn nuts holding the fuel pump cover. (10 mm)
Step 6. Lay out a clean soft towel or rag to place the fuel pump assembly on. Slowly pull the fuel pump assembly out of the tank, being very careful not to bang the fuel level float. The fuel pump assembly is worth $280.13 US from cheapcycleparts.com...so handle this part like a precious gem!!! Fuel will leak and drip out of this pump. Lay the fuel pump out on the clean rag.
![Image]()
Step 7. Without bending the fuel level float rod, remove it from the pump assembly by unclipping the little plastic clips. The white plastic "arm / pivot" under it will come off of the pump now too.
![Image]()
The part we want is the "arm / pivot" that the float level rod connects to. On the other side of this little "arm / pivot" are two electrical contacts that move up and down the circuit board. The result of the two contacts moving up and down this circuit board will measure the fuel level on the pod. The problem is, the two delicate, electical contacts are not level with each other and it's likely that some of the time, only one contact is connecting. See pics....
![Image]()
As you can see from the above pic, the two contacts are not level. Here's another pic just to make sure you can see what I mean:
![Image]()
Step 8. Carefully bend the electrical contact "tabs" so that they are even with each other in the direction of placing pressure on the circuit board. You may want to test fit this "arm / pivot" on the fuel pump to ensure the contacts are indeed postively sliding along the circuit board. The circuit board has raised lines, so you will be able to feel the resistance. I would be careful not to have too much resistance in the event that the float will not be able to move the "arm / pivot".
This pic shows how the electrical contacts are even and have positive contact with the circuit board:
![Image]()
OK....Now that the electrical contacts are even and good to go, reassemble the "arm / pivot" and fuel float level rod. Ensure the fuel cover gasket and immediate area is clean and reinstall the fuel pump back into the tank. The six acorn nuts are torqued to 7 nm. I placed some dielectric grease in the fuel pump electrical connector and then reconnected it. Reconnect the fuel line. Before you go through the hassle of bolting the rear fenders and rack on, turn your ignition key to on (do not start the motor) and check the pod for the fuel level, i.e., make sure it's working. I cycled the key on and off three times to let the fuel pump fill up with fuel and then powered up the motor...
Obviously, the longest part of this was removing the rear fender and rack, the actual fix of the fuel pump only takes a few moments. As far as the level of difficulty goes, in my honest opinion, if you have the basics of a mechanical aptitude, then this will be fairly easy job. Like anything, take your time and be methodical.
After my next ride, I will report back how my fuel gauge performed. From the info I got from that other forum though, this was definitely the "fix".
Hope this helps....
Enough already, on to the situation:
Quite a number of folks have reported that their fuel gauge indicator on the pod is highly inaccurate and starts flashing empty when the tank is nearly full, and this includes myself. For me, this was driving me crazy and I could no longer stand looking at the this blinkin' fuel gauge all the time. My Grizzly is still under warranty and my dealer is only 10 minutes away, but it's a hastle to take the quad down there, try to explain the gauge only works when it's not on the trail and try to get warranty work done....forget it, I wanted to perform this fix myself...that way I know all of the bolts are re-torqued to spec, my rear fender will not get damaged and at the same time when the rear fender is off, I can do some major cleaning and detailing to the parts that are not easily accesible.
Step 1. Remove rear rack and rear fenders. (Tip - get yourself a magnetic tray for the hardware)
Step 2. (optional, but recommended) Clean the whole top area of the fuel tank and connections and thoroughly dry...this will help to avoid any contaminants from falling into the tank.
Step 3. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connection...be careful not to crack the connector, mine was stiff to remove.
Step 4. Disconnect the fuel line...see the service manual for the proper procedure of removing this clip...again, be careful not to snap this connector. Note: very little fuel leaked out.
Step 5. Remove the six acorn nuts holding the fuel pump cover. (10 mm)
Step 6. Lay out a clean soft towel or rag to place the fuel pump assembly on. Slowly pull the fuel pump assembly out of the tank, being very careful not to bang the fuel level float. The fuel pump assembly is worth $280.13 US from cheapcycleparts.com...so handle this part like a precious gem!!! Fuel will leak and drip out of this pump. Lay the fuel pump out on the clean rag.
Step 7. Without bending the fuel level float rod, remove it from the pump assembly by unclipping the little plastic clips. The white plastic "arm / pivot" under it will come off of the pump now too.
The part we want is the "arm / pivot" that the float level rod connects to. On the other side of this little "arm / pivot" are two electrical contacts that move up and down the circuit board. The result of the two contacts moving up and down this circuit board will measure the fuel level on the pod. The problem is, the two delicate, electical contacts are not level with each other and it's likely that some of the time, only one contact is connecting. See pics....
As you can see from the above pic, the two contacts are not level. Here's another pic just to make sure you can see what I mean:
Step 8. Carefully bend the electrical contact "tabs" so that they are even with each other in the direction of placing pressure on the circuit board. You may want to test fit this "arm / pivot" on the fuel pump to ensure the contacts are indeed postively sliding along the circuit board. The circuit board has raised lines, so you will be able to feel the resistance. I would be careful not to have too much resistance in the event that the float will not be able to move the "arm / pivot".
This pic shows how the electrical contacts are even and have positive contact with the circuit board:
OK....Now that the electrical contacts are even and good to go, reassemble the "arm / pivot" and fuel float level rod. Ensure the fuel cover gasket and immediate area is clean and reinstall the fuel pump back into the tank. The six acorn nuts are torqued to 7 nm. I placed some dielectric grease in the fuel pump electrical connector and then reconnected it. Reconnect the fuel line. Before you go through the hassle of bolting the rear fenders and rack on, turn your ignition key to on (do not start the motor) and check the pod for the fuel level, i.e., make sure it's working. I cycled the key on and off three times to let the fuel pump fill up with fuel and then powered up the motor...
Obviously, the longest part of this was removing the rear fender and rack, the actual fix of the fuel pump only takes a few moments. As far as the level of difficulty goes, in my honest opinion, if you have the basics of a mechanical aptitude, then this will be fairly easy job. Like anything, take your time and be methodical.
After my next ride, I will report back how my fuel gauge performed. From the info I got from that other forum though, this was definitely the "fix".
Hope this helps....
