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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, found a local guy that said he was a Kawasaki certified mechanic. He rebuild my top end since it was smoking, and I bought a new OEM carb to eliminate that from the problem. It starts and runs good, but it's lacking the power it had before. It used to have a snappy throttle and it would hit 50 plus, but now it is sluggish and hits 30-35 or so. I replaced the plug and the filter is clean. I do have a compression tester, but the adapters won't fit the plug hole. The belt was cleaned up by the Yamaha dealer before the rebuild. The quad looked like new when I bought it used with 200 miles (2006 model SE), but the engine seems to have a lot of red clay stains all over it and the belt was slipping due to water in it. I think the guy might have sunk it, but it ran great for the first few hours. All the fluids look good and were replaced by the dealer. The guy that rebuilt it left a plug loose, so the diff lock was locked on. He fixed it, but I'm thinking he isn't real familiar with Yamahas. Any suggestions? I promise to post the final outcome as that is my biggest pet peeve with these forums. Thanks in advance for any tips. I've rebuilt a Foreman and Yamaha Waverunner, so I get engines for the most part:wink2:
 

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The red clay indicates mud riding and it might have been swamped, but it did run for a while.
I would check for correct valve lash and float level for proper fuel flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Valves

I am going to get the valves checked next week. I get annoyed with the carb adjustments, so I bought a new OEM one for $266. The plug looks to be lean, so I plan to adjust the air screw next week when we get to the farm. My old Honda 110 three wheeler had more response than this one has atm. I hope it isn't compression, but I'm kinda thinking that may be my problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Fuel

I cleaned the tank and checked output before I installed the tank, it's getting fuel freely.
 

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Getting fuel to the carb from the tank and getting fuel to the engine is 2 completely different things. The float level in the carb must be properly adjusted to make sure the proper amount of fuel is in the carb bowl. Since your carb is new, it now must be setup correctly. Float level and pilot needle adjustments are part of that.

I would definitely check the valve clearances again as well. They should of change by simply replacing a piston, but you never know what the mechanic might of done.

I would also re-check the timing. It may be off by one tooth on the chain.
 
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If you replaced the piston, your kinda wasting your time with the compression test. It will tell if you have enough to run, which you already know, but your not going to get a real reading until its broken in. I wonder if you got a new set of rings on an old piston, and no hone job, or it was redone but didn't check the bore, and it needed a bore and hone, not just a hone. Hard to say. If you got it up to 35, and it wasn't sputtering and bucking or falling flat on its face, I'd say the carb is close to adjusted. If not it would either not idle at all, or it would but wouldn't rev up, one or the other. If you have both, its fine. I'd look for cross hatching in the cylinder, the parts he put in, and if that looks good. Put 500 miles on it and see if it gets better as the cylinder seals up. Also, follow proper break in procedures.
 

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......The belt was cleaned up by the Yamaha dealer before the rebuild. ........:wink2:
Besides checking all of the above...

Pull off the cvt cover and check the movement of the belt. May have a roller weight flopped out of the channel.
 
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Besides checking all of the above...

Pull off the cvt cover and check the movement of the belt. May have a roller weight flopped out of the channel.
I was thinking the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Kodiak

I'll get the dealer to check the timing as well. The mechanic said he was going to get the cylinder honed, but a few weeks went by before I checked on the quad. The next day he said it was ready, so I'm worried that he just put new rings on and didn't fix the original problem. I guess I'll get the valves and timing checked and see how it goes.
 

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I'll get the dealer to check the timing as well. The mechanic said he was going to get the cylinder honed, but a few weeks went by before I checked on the quad. The next day he said it was ready, so I'm worried that he just put new rings on and didn't fix the original problem. I guess I'll get the valves and timing checked and see how it goes.
You may have just exposed your problem;
The dealer doesn't do crap, and most dealers hire the cheapest labor available to boost dealer profit.
If you can, get to the parts remover/replacer guy and tell him if the valves do not close fully these low compression engine will not run correctly.
If you have popping through the intake, which have not spoken of yet, that is a good indication the intake valves are not closing, and if there is too much valve lash the valves do not stay open long enough to get all the gas needed to haul ass at 50 m.p.h. as before.
Let them know you know something about these engines, and if you need more help fighting the 'dealer guy' just ask.
Generally, it's 'Us' on G.C. against all 'dealer guys' and most of the time 'they' lose.:wink2:
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks

I appreciate all the advice. I'll be able to run it all next week, so I'll check the plug and tweak the carb if it needs it. It doesn't have popping unless I let off from full throttle, so it may be the carb slightly off. I'll follow up after I get a chance to fool with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, probably a stupid question. How do I tell if one of the weights flopped out of the channel? I didn't notice anything that looks different than the YouTube videos I've watched. No strange noises or rattles.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update, it's definitely the clutch. The engine sounds great, but it is just revs high and the clutch is barely engaging. I'm going to inspect the wet clutch and primary when I get home. I'm guessing the guy may have flooded it and the water didn't get flushed out of the wet clutch at some point. I'll follow up after I get some supplies and take it apart.
 

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Update, it's definitely the clutch. The engine sounds great, but it is just revs high and the clutch is barely engaging. I'm going to inspect the wet clutch and primary when I get home. I'm guessing the guy may have flooded it and the water didn't get flushed out of the wet clutch at some point. I'll follow up after I get some supplies and take it apart.
Just so you know, your wet clutch is sealed from the rest of your cvt system and is bathed in your engine oil. That said it's certainly possible for the wet clutch pads to be warn out and cause the slipping you are describing.
 
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You’ll know because when you pull the grease seal cover off the primary one of the weights should be on its side under the cam. You mentioned about 200 miles, that’s extremely low to have wet clutch issues especially if you have stock tires. I have 1300 miles and 28” inch tires. I’m in the process of checking my wet clutch now and besides some oil burn there is still plenty of pad left. So all I’m doing is slugging it and lightly sand the burned oil off the pads. Not a hard process but more of a pain since it is internal.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I'm sure I'll have some questions when I get in there. I saw a Caltric wet brake, seal and one way for about $100 on amazon. Has anyone tried them in the past? I put their carbs on my Grizzly 660 and Kodiak 400 and they have been great for several years now.
 

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I'm sure I'll have some questions when I get in there. I saw a Caltric wet brake, seal and one way for about $100 on amazon. Has anyone tried them in the past? I put their carbs on my Grizzly 660 and Kodiak 400 and they have been great for several years now.
I have not heard any negative comments on the Caltric wet clutches.

But I will warn you. For the one-way bearing, do not use anything but OEM. Trust us on this. All others are garbage. This has been proven many times over. OEM or nothing for the one-way bearing.
 

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I have not heard any negative comments on the Caltric wet clutches.

But I will warn you. For the one-way bearing, do not use anything but OEM. Trust us on this. All others are garbage. This has been proven many times over. OEM or nothing for the one-way bearing.
Agree with dezz 100%

Don't buy any other OW than a OEM..If it is not junk right out the box it won't last 100 miles. There is also a possibility it could take out the wet clutch and housing.
 
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I prefer not to get into get into the wet clutch if I don't have to, so I'm going to clean up my primary first and try it. I just need the 22mm socket and grease. The dealer changed the oil and it's looks lighter than I expected. I will drain it and make sure it doesn't have water/particles in it and stick with 10w40 yamaha oil. I'll follow up in a few days after I get the parts.

My engine braking seemed fine, so I'll stick with my oem one way. Thanks for the tip guys.
 

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I read through this thread pretty quickly so I apologize if I missed something. From your original post, it seems like the miles and hours on your machine are quite low and you had good performance (other than the smoking). Do you know what oil your overhaul mechanic put in the machine? Maybe your wet clutch is slipping due to the wrong oil in the machine. If the oil he used after the rebuild wasn't wet clutch compatible, you may just need to change the oil. It seems that you had good clutch performance before the top end rebuild right? There are a lot more qualified mechanics on forum than I am, but I just thought I'd throw out this question before you tear it all apart.
 
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