dont need a windsheild where u going now lol. nice bike.
Let the mods commense
Well, with the fuel &ignition programmer, she gets warm. So rad relocate and snorkles. I'll figure out how to mount the windscreen to it. Clutch spring and shimmed already.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread]()
![Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tread]()
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Oh, it stopped alright.. belt came apart on me... That was fun to push/winch it a half mile through the woods to the bike trail... Old belt was in good shape yet. Also got some good shoes.
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It wasn't a squeel. Like walking in a freshly polished floor, movement of the rubber squeeks.it was when I was off the throttle and rolling slow. Also it was a $30 belt. The other one didn't do it. Belt had no hot spots or excessive wear. Their was chunks that came off. Ribbed section delaminated then it sucked the threading into the primary. And I could peel the belt apart, can see it in the photo. Just inferior and too cheap. Clutch didn't sound different after the mods. I'll get a better one next time.
With shim alone you're going down the right path, but you're still in the kiddy pool if you want to play in the clay
As you increase the c.v.t. shim equivalents to magnify the engine torque produced at the primary pulley for increased pull on the belt you're going to need changes to other parts of the drive line.
I use a purple spring with a 3.54 ratio because in my area we have adobe mud and sharp rock which create great amounts of traction to the tire patch, so between the primary pulley and the tire patch something needs to slip just before an axle breaks or the final drive in the transmission breaks. I use stock axles to protect the transmission.
If you want to know/understand your system and the changes created by different c.v.t. mods I suggest going back to stock (removing the shim) and determine the stock pulley ratio, then after you add c.v.t. mods you can calculate the percentage of change in the pulley ratio to understand the gain in torque to the belt which then requires other mods such as a stiffer secondary, maybe required by taller tires.
All a.t.v. models have system limits so the trick is to know when to get off the gas and use the winch.
And now I'm running 30x10 14. I can feel the extra weight. Deff need to change the clutch up again. Im running cryptids. They are a hard tire so they don't "bite" as hard but they have more traction. The swamp lites wear fast. And I got a good deal on these. I can feel the clutch slip some. I do believe my last belt was due to not enough airflow so the belt got too hot.With shim alone you're going down the right path, but you're still in the kiddy pool if you want to play in the clay
As you increase the c.v.t. shim equivalents to magnify the engine torque produced at the primary pulley for increased pull on the belt you're going to need changes to other parts of the drive line.
I use a purple spring with a 3.54 ratio because in my area we have adobe mud and sharp rock which create great amounts of traction to the tire patch, so between the primary pulley and the tire patch something needs to slip just before an axle breaks or the final drive in the transmission breaks. I use stock axles to protect the transmission.
If you want to know/understand your system and the changes created by different c.v.t. mods I suggest going back to stock (removing the shim) and determine the stock pulley ratio, then after you add c.v.t. mods you can calculate the percentage of change in the pulley ratio to understand the gain in torque to the belt which then requires other mods such as a stiffer secondary, maybe required by taller tires.
All a.t.v. models have system limits so the trick is to know when to get off the gas and use the winch.
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