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Discussion Starter #1
I wanna do the shim mod on the 02 660 to see how much difference it makes this thing is already wheelying pritty easy I understand the washer has to be big enough to go over the rod but people are talking about mm sizes and what works and what dont but how do you tell wich is too big also if I post pics of my spark plug can yaw help me get this thing jetted right I know nothing about carbs so I dont even know where the air fuel mix screw is I've dont the 686 big bore kit and the mudbuster cam but she studers and sometimes dies when I'm barely on the throttle especially when I first start it I almost have to goose it to keep it from stalling and now that I mounted airbox on right she tops out around 35 wich is definitely not right....its never seemed like its had a whole lot of power.......
 

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That's several problems, I suggest dealing with one at a time, starting with the a/f ratio problem. Let us look at the plug, are you using the stock carb? o.e.m. or cheap replacement?
I suggest this first as the engine needs to be right to know if the c.v.t. mods are what you want.
At what elevation is this taking place?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
That's several problems, I suggest dealing with one at a time, starting with the a/f ratio problem. Let us look at the plug, are you using the stock carb? o.e.m. or cheap replacement?
I suggest this first as the engine needs to be right to know if the c.v.t. mods are what you want.
At what elevation is this taking place?
Cheep replacement carb like 30 or 40 bucks off Ebay I believe and not sure of my elevation I'm in Galloway nj and google is telling me neg40 and pos60 so......
 

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OK....we'll call it sea level which is close enough for this discussion. If you were like me in the mountains I would be thinking differently.
I picture of your plug will better help us help you so as your bike is pulling the front end now, I don't think you have much wrong now and we will make small changes, probably in the area of valve lash adjustment as part of a full service first.
I say this because I have a couple buddys with exact 660's like mine, One bought at the same time as mine, and the other a couple years later with that buddy liking mine so looked and found a used matching bike. I mention this because all needed the same work eventually, the bought with mine needed more days because that buddy rode less than me, and the other bike belonged to a ranch, with very low mikes but high hours due to idling for long periods in the field.
I would give your bike a complete make-over :) total inspection, to know everything is just right. These are low out-put, low compression engines so small problems can add up to poor performance, and I don't think you have much wrong now so......
Give'er' a good bath and get ready for a tune-up, it you can, run'er around the block a couple times to dry the suspension and inner bike areas and to roll any standing water out before starting.
I would pull the seat, remove the air filter and make sure the valve lash sticker is still under the seat before get toooo far into this.
I would then pull the front rack, front fenders, gas tank cover-tank-heat shield, recoil started, timing cover and spark plug and get ready to check and adjust the valve lash to the wide side of the lash range as recommended by Yamaha.
If you are going to do this, let us know when you have the bike to this stage. Oh....all this is to get your bike in best spec so later we can do the right c.v.t. mods. I had to go this route with my buddy's too, they didn't understand all the effort until after the work was done, but enjoyed the differences after.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just did the valves about 2 months ago after the build she ran warm and wouldn't start up no more so I had to readjust them had a ford mechanic come over and help me out and she fired right back up
 

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If you feel good about the lash, and still have a small problem, why is the replacement carb on the bike? And does the plug run wet, or dry, light tan or black?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The bike sat for a couple of years so the carb was toast I'll post the spark plug probably tomorow night
 

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I asked to know if the carb was replaced because of overheating or something that could cause engine damage.
Its sounding like its as good as you can get'er so we'll look at the plug and probably move on to c.v.t. mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Soooo we have bigger fish to fry now......I took it down the road to a pit to ride with some people I met......shes waaaaay worse than I thought.....after the build I still had the old radiator on the bike and it was leaking pritty bad and the waterpump was leaking also and I'm just assuming she ran hot one day couse she just shut off on me when I was trying to get some break in on it and would not start back up but the way it died it like slowly died so i wound up redoing the valves on them and they were way off....and it fired right back up I then installed a new rad and so called high flow waterpump and sence I fixed the temp wire issue the temp light doesn't come on but the fan does kick off and on regularly.....I replaced the carb because the guy the did the bbk soaked it in something for a couple of days and said it was still garbage that he couldn't revive it that we should just buy a new one so that's the route I took...so my other issues I didnt realize how bad my wheel bearings were but there's atleast an inch of play in the one and riding it on the highway the steering is very slack......the biggest issue is when I ride there is still a mist of oil on my left leg and when I shut it off it seems worse now had someone look at it and they think head gasket I'm gonna pull the gas tank this weekend and try to get some longer fuel line and try to run it with nothing in the way so I can pin point where it's coming from......but this head gasket is bran new this thing was just built unless it did run hot and these things are just that sensitive to heat I have no idea......when I have the gas tank off I will pull the sparkplug and post pics of it also....
 

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I recommended to change the top end bolts after being torqued once. Maybe this is part of your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not sure if the kit came with new ones but I'll check with the guy that built it and see.....now does this mean that I can just pull the bolts out of the head and replace them with new bolts and re torque them??? Should I replace the head gasket too at this point just to be sure??? Should I buy aftermarket head bolts? Do they make ARP head bolts for a grizzly???
 

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How can I say for sure, I am still confused on exactly what happened and who did it.
There are sensitive cylinder bolts;
and sensitive cylinder head bolts;
And when raising the compression (adding power) to an engine along with changing the lift and duration for more fuel there are better parts than stock for the application. It is known that once these long bolts are stretched once the recommendation is they be replaced for best results.
As you are not getting best results after your rebuild, this maybe one of your small problems adding up to poor performance now.
I'll promise you this, if you have the parts timed right, have hot fire added at the exact right time, then add the right fuel mixture in the proper quantity, she'll run.
I started to work your through timing, and you said the ford guy did that for you.
You said the previous owned changed out the old parts for good parts to increase the power.
You said it would pull the front off the ground without too much problem.
So I figured things are close.
It seems this is now not the case and you are going to chase a oil leak this weekend and wheel bearing.
I suggest a new head gasket if you have any doubt, make damn sure for yourself the timing is dead on,not take the word of someone that hasn't got it running well yet.
As for the plug, it has to be read after a good run, I do it by getting it running at what speed I want to take a look, then hit the kill switch and when stopped hurry and pull the plug, and don't hit the gas after the engine is turned off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes it doesn't wheelie much in high without using my weight to make it wheelie but it will wheelie in low no problem as long as I have it on the highway with traction the oil leake I thought was super small so I wasnt too concerned figured I'd just keep eye on the oil level but after that ride today its alot worse than I thought.....I can check the timing when I pull the head to replace gaskets and bolts correct??? Also another question sence I have the head off should I see if I can talk the wife into sending the head off for work???
 

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:)
Someone messed up their bike and tried to fix it with parts that added power (that was the idea) and didn't get the work done right.
Now you own it (bought the problem) and have to decide what to do.
I would consider a new stock cylinder, piston and head with parts needed to install and go back to stock.
And maybe keep the ford guy, or others to the side and do the work yourself.
You can get a f.s.m. with all details written to do the job.
Then when done you can magnify power with c.v.t. mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No I bought the bike thinking she was locked up so bought all the top end stuff and had someone do the work for me then found out it was the clutch that was soo messed up....I wanna keep the bbk I even put stainless valves in this dam thanf and they weren't cheep
 

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What was wrong with the clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Whoever did the clutch work somebody didnt torque the nut or ping it and it backed out and it got fucked up
 

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OH...
Over the years we've had dozens of members not get the primary on right, there are many reported ways to mess that up, and most have been expensive to fix.
 
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