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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got around to hooking up my reverse light.
I didn’t want the complications of tapping into CDI’s etc. So I chose a different route.

I decided to use a micro switch

They were only $11 for 10 of them so I have lots of “mess up” chances.

I ran power from the battery to the light , and grounded the switch to the frame and ran the other terminal of the switch to the light.
When the switch is pushed it connects the ground wire.

I had to grind down the back side of the shift gate for the switch to fit. Also had to remove the plastic slider plastic plate that keeps you from looking down the shifter hole.

Attached the switch with 2mm Allen head machine screws from my RC truck tool kit.
I drilled the shift gate to attach.

I used a Kawell 12w 4” flush mount led bar. Was looking for low amp draw and I got that.
12 Watts / 12 volts is 1 amp.
The light was less than $20 from China.



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Discussion Starter #2
Continue..
I wanted to use it as a trail stop light and not have to leave the key on.. main reason it’s a direct wire job.
Time will tell how robust the micro switch will be.

I made a little video.


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Hey Madkawi,
Make sure you put those microswitches in the driest area possible or try to seal them as best you can. I have been dealing with those exact switches for years as the aircraft I maintain use lots of them. In areas of moisture, water spray or deice fluid coverage, they are a constant issue. Soaking them in a lubricant like ACF50, Rust Check, penetrating undercoat, etc....helps the longevity of them tremendously.
 

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I am still deciding on how to rig up my rear 7" dual row flood led.

I like what you did - nice job.

But, I can envision times when I do not want the rear light to come on when I go into reverse, like during the day or when backing up with someone behind me at night.

One could also add another switch that could control the micro switch when it is not wanted.

Thanks for the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am concerned about the fragile nature of the switch.
It worked great this evening on our family ride.
Time will tell,, washing and such might pose a problem.


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Nice job, that is slick!
 

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Sweet install! I wondered if a micro switch would work - I was thinking installing it somewhere lower and didn’t even consider the plastic shroud! Keep us posted how it holds up... (I’m literally looking at my electrical box now, debating if I want to tackle a CDI reverse tie-in...)


-Opie
 

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Really like your idea, but to what Dezz mentioned about the problems with those micro switches....How about a magnetic reed switch, there are a bunch of different designs out there and they are more or less a sealed unit, and since they use magnets to activate the switch no moving external parts.
 

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I know what I'll be doing for my next modification on my 660....lol.

I had a similar thing done on my old Grizzly 600, expect I made a steel bracket and bolted it to the transmission. The rod end would activate the switch (600 doesn't have "park" position). It worked for 3 rides and then the switch failed due to water and sand entry.
Madkawi got a much better idea and location. Now I just got to figure out how to make this work with the 660 style shifter box.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Love the magnetic switch idea. I might look into that. I have some from my house alarm install.
Never thought about them before.


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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Madkawi,
Make sure you put those microswitches in the driest area possible or try to seal them as best you can. I have been dealing with those exact switches for years as the aircraft I maintain use lots of them. In areas of moisture, water spray or deice fluid coverage, they are a constant issue. Soaking them in a lubricant like ACF50, Rust Check, penetrating undercoat, etc....helps the longevity of them tremendously.
I had this in the back of my mind. I tried packing one of them with Dielectric grease. It still seems to work well. The little clicky sound is quite muted, but I tried it with 12 volts and a light and it works. I might have to do this to the one I installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

Before and after grease packing


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Now I just got to figure out how to make this work with the 660 style shifter box.
Any idea if the shaft in the shift box is grounded to the frame? Cause where I'm going with that is, if the shaft is grounded, how about a circuit for the reverse light that has the ground run to a flexible metal tab that comes in contact with the shift shaft only when it is in the R notch of the shift box? If my Grizz weren't a couple hours away I'd check the shift shaft for ground.
 

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Any idea if the shaft in the shift box is grounded to the frame? Cause where I'm going with that is, if the shaft is grounded, how about a circuit for the reverse light that has the ground run to a flexible metal tab that comes in contact with the shift shaft only when it is in the R notch of the shift box? If my Grizz weren't a couple hours away I'd check the shift shaft for ground.
I would think the entire motor/gear box is all one big ground....at least to my thinking.:wink2:
 

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Nice!! You've started a trend. Looks like quite a few people will be doing this mod in the near future. Including me.
 
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I would think the entire motor/gear box is all one big ground....at least to my thinking.:wink2:
Well yes the motor and engine case are grounded, but that's not the shift box and shaft that I was referring to. Shaft in red, box in blue:



So it's not clear that it could be used to create a connected ground, without checking.
 

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Very cool! Great idea!

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