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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this on the kodiak forum , figured I would add here if anyone wanted to copy it .
 

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Reminds me of a line from an old song "Joe saw your wife the other day she sure is ugly" Joe replied "Yeah but she sure can cook"

How deep do the pins go into the camplate? I ask because the camplate must be tight to the sheave collar when torqueing the nut. While spreading the camplate out from the sheave tower may allow the weights to flop out of the channels.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Reminds me of a line from an old song "Joe saw your wife the other day she sure is ugly" Joe replied "Yeah but she sure can cook"

How deep do the pins go into the camplate? I ask because the camplate must be tight to the sheave collar when torqueing the nut. While spreading the camplate out from the sheave tower may allow the weights to flop out of the channels.
They go in maybe 1/8 -3/16 , I install the sheave the same as I did when I used a strap wrench . I slide the sheave on all the while holding the cam plate down thread the shaft nut on center the washer and give it a good finger tightening to hold everything down . Slide the holder on , pins in the holes and tighten the clamp down with a cordless impact . This keeps everything from moving . Very simple really .
 
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An F.Y.I. for anyone binding the cam-plate when applying the required nut torque:

After removing the thingy holding the cam-plate confirm the resulting nut
torque is correct.​
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
An F.Y.I. for anyone binding the cam-plate when applying the required nut torque:

After removing the thingy holding the cam-plate confirm the resulting nut
torque is correct.​
How would it not be correct ? No difference if holding it by the outer sheave or holes in plate. When torquing the nut the plate will move slid in on the shaft. Once the cam plate and shafts teeth are meshed with some grease I don’t see it binding.
 

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To answer you question, I've never been with others using a cam-plate holder like you made so don't know why they didn't get nut tight. I do remember others reporting a lot of damage after starting the engine with a loose nut causing the primary to fail.
The primary doesn't fly apart because of the cage, restricting the damage to mostly the movable sheave.

As you asked, there can be a difference in holding/binding the cam-plate directly v holding the sheave. Just because 'you' got the holder squared up so the cam-plate could slide doesn't mean another will do the same thing, thus my warning.
You used grease on the shaft splines?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To answer you question, I've never been with others using a cam-plate holder like you made so don't know why they didn't get nut tight. I do remember others reporting a lot of damage after starting the engine with a loose nut causing the primary to fail.
The primary doesn't fly apart because of the cage, restricting the damage to mostly the movable sheave.

As you asked, there can be a difference in holding/binding the cam-plate directly v holding the sheave. Just because 'you' got the holder squared up so the cam-plate could slide doesn't mean another will do the same thing, thus my warning.
You used grease on the shaft splines?
Got ya , nothing wrong with making sure things are correct . My guess on the loose nut, is they didn’t center the washer on the shaft . They probably left the washer hanging on the shaft and as they tightened the nut the washer got cocked on the splines of the shaft .
As for the difference between my holder or using a sheave holder . When one holds the sheave as your torquing the nut the sheave puts side pressure on the plastic sliders on the cam plate and the cam plates keeps the clutch housing shaft from turning With my holder your doing the same, except you’ve taken the sheave pressing on the cam sliders out of the process .
Either way of doing it your still exerting 100 ft lbs of side pressure from cam plates teeth on to the splines of the shaft . When the plates teeth are engaged with the clutch housing shaft splines it’s a very exact fit and I don’t see it binding enough or at all to effect the torque value's. And I do agree with you to make sure everything is installed correctly before one starts torquing the nut . As for the grease, when I add new grease to the inside of the collar and I slide it on the shaft I always seem to get a little bit on the splines. I’ll wipe it off but there’s always a bit left and I always leave it with no I’ll effects .
 

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It seems that most of the loose nut issues can be traced to one or more of the following,
1.) the result of pinching the belt in the primary when tightening the nut down.
2.) not torqueing the nut to the proper spec.
3.) pinching the washer behind the nut.
4.) rollers flopped.
 
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