Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay everybody, first let me say this is a awesome forum, very informative and knowledgeable people on here! That is why I am asking this:

I did the 1.5mm Shim mod was a learning experience getting it right but hey thats why we tinker right lol, anyway it works sweet with 28x10 zillas I can still raise the front a little in high gear.

I am getting ready to put some more money into the grizzly and need a little direction please

Should I try the EHS EFI controller with their complete air lid, I have a twin air filter now on it was going to switch to a K&N maybe with the EHS Air Lid.

or

I was told get some grease less HV roller weights 18 gram and purple secondary spring along with some slippery washers.

Which will give me the best bang for the buck?

The clutch work is going to be a good bit more work I know, the EFI controller are pretty basic from what I have read but get conflicting stories from what I read on whether it is worth it? some say the 2 rock and some say they really didnt notice any difference

I do have a aftermarket exhaust tip I forgot to mention if that matters

I want the most seat of the pants bang for the buck I should say lol

again thank for all the help!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,670 Posts
I will say do the c.v.t. mods to magnify what the engine is already producing and to free up the drive system between the wet clutch and the tire patch. The stock griz is set-up for the average rider skill, kin'a' like having a truck transmission in the wrong gear when trying to pull a heavy trailer. As we do not change the transmission gears, we can make changes to change the pulley ratio.
I have written many times for those new to this game of c.v.t. mods to count their stock pulley ratio before making any mods, then after the mods to count the ratio again to calculate the percentage change.
By raising the pulley ratio you are magnifying the engine torque produced which pulls on the belt, so if with your shim mod raised the ratio oh......6.2%, then you would understand that if you raised it say 11% you would feel more pull.
My 660 can accept 2.5 mm's of shim (more than 770's) and this resulted in just over 11% in ratio increase. Then I did the machined sheave #3 mod by COOP45, combined this with some shim and other mods listed in my signature and my ratio went from 2.5:1 to 3.54:1. Do the calculation for the increase which I LIKE!
You can add the other mods (air box and computer) to a bogged down drive system and not feel much, or free up the drive system then add more engine power later.
Also so you know, when you increase the pulley ratio by 5%, then do more mods to get to 10% increase you have also magnified the first 5% increase. This builds upon itself and is nice.
Bang for your buck? Your choice now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,129 Posts
Coop45 machined sheave + 0.5 mm shim , keep your stock weights and a Epi purple spring.

That's the best bang for buck in my and many others books.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Yup do the machined sheave and purple spring and 18gram weights.... What a beast after ya do that. You don't need the washers he sells, it doesn't bind at all

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Just talked to CoopP45 going to do his sheave and spring

I appreciate everyone's input! Now just have to get the correct tools lined up for the job on the secondary,

Can someone give me the low down on tools needed please, things that will make it painless as possible lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,129 Posts
22mm socket. 45 mm or 1" 13/16 socket. 1/2 " Impact. Home made spring compressor or a wheel and a budy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,670 Posts
Again, i suggest you count your ratio before removing the primary. if you don't and COOP machines it, you will never know what happened to your system.
The video is just a day under the cover, I have done this many times to be ready for a ride in different terrain.
and you will want a wood vise,
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vincent

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well went a different direction to try something out a member suggested and that was less than $50

Put 1.8mm of shim, 4 450 weights and 4 700 weights in primary

so far feels almost perfect to me just riding for the short period of time I got to ride today

Think I will ride with these mods for a while I like it.

Going to add EHS air lid and EHS EFI controller next weekend and I think that will be good for me.

Man there are some great people on here with experience And I can’t thank you all enough for all the advise!!!!

Guy I ride with has a Can-am 850 XMR and man that thing has the power over the grizzly don’t think there is anything can be done to the grizzly to compare
Lol gonna have to live with getting tore up lol but all in all I am happy with the grizzly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well broke down and ordered the EHS fuel controller and air lid

Hope it works well, with the clutch mods and the EHS parts should be good boost in performance I hope

Thanks everyone for all your help!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,670 Posts
I suggest adding those new mods one at a time, so if/when something needs to be looked at closer to solve a problem, you will know where to start.
I know from experience :)
 

·
Grizzled
2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
Joined
·
3,662 Posts
Guy I ride with has a Can-am 850 XMR and man that thing has the power over the grizzly don’t think there is anything can be done to the grizzly to compare
Lol gonna have to live with getting tore up lol but all in all I am happy with the grizzly
Stay away from drag racing and the straights, keep him in the twisties and throttle steer away. Or rock crawl. That is where the Grizzly/Kodiak 700 shines!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2wheelATV

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Installed the parts, everything went easy and seems to work, I haven't gotten a chance to really ride it hard yet but seems to have responded well from the little bit I rode it.

Eric supposedly programmed the controller before he shipped it so I didn't fool with any of the setting.

Question for you guys who have gotten this done, if I was to take my machine somewhere and get a big bore kit installed what kind of funds are we talking? been hearing about a 734 kit

Who is close to southern maryland that can do such mods and done right?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,129 Posts
I would invest in Coop45 machined sheave WAY before ever considering doing more expensive and complex internal engine work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Will spending $350 approx. be that more than the weights and shim mod I have already done?

Sorry if that sounds dumb, I have about $50 or less in the clutch now and works rather well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,129 Posts
Don't think it will be anywhere near 350$ if you want a shop to do it, and the gains will be minimal at best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I am talking about doing the coop45 sheave, I can do the clutch after having it apart a few times it has become fairly easy job.

I talked to Coop and if I was to do it I would get a new sheave from him and let him do his work to it that way I have a spare.

I am asking is there is a significant increase in seat of the pants feel over the mods I have done to clutch now, it feels pretty good right now and I dont have hardly any money in it thanks to another member who recommended I try it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I am good with putting more money in it if the outcome is nite and day difference from what I have

I am learning all these grizzly mods and trying to figure out cost vs effective if that makes better sense lol

Trying to make her into a sleeper beast, want it to look mostly stock but rock n roll lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Everybody here has either Can-am or Brute Force

Hell one of the guys here has a 650 Brute Force and that thing is a beast lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,670 Posts
I suggest you you think and decide what you really want, either great high r.p.m. h.p or greater low end torque, as one comes at the sacrifice of the other. As I do not rip around these mountains at high engine r.p.m., I decided to rely on the torque produced. This very critical to then know how to change the pulley system to deliver max power to the transmission.
Others have played with max h.p. and only a few I know got it right, and what all have learned to deal with is the limits of the Yamaha wet clutch.
One member I know and rode with tried a wet clutch delete to learn other problems show up.
I focus on on the torque just above the wet clutch engagement r.p.m. then found the point of diminishing returns where the engine starts producing max h.p. as the h.p.curve passes through the diminishing torque curve.
Once the wet clutch is fully engaged I changed parts for fast weight movement in the primary then controlled by the cut cam plate mod. I use a very high pulley ratio with very heavy weights for my model, to get the belt to full travel across the primary sheaves, then all additional engine r.p.m. goes to higher speed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thats what I want a TQ monster, not worried about top end

I want to go from 0-50 fast as possible
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top