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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a new 2107 Wolverine R Spec Special Edition. So far I love it.
 

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Nice! Congrats!
 

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If and when I try another SxS it will probably be that one . Let us know how you like it after you get some miles on er.
 

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Congrats!
 

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Congratulations @kdt1970! We added a Wolverine last Summer too. We really enjoy ours a lot. My only wish is that I could get my Griz to ride as smooth.
 

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Congrats on the new R-Spec and good to see you back on the forum. Any upgrades that we can assist you with?)
 

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Thank you, Right now I'm adding stuff to make it street legal. The 18 miles I've put on it though. I really like it and smile pretty much the whole time. I did loosen my floor board bolts slightly just encase the cracking issue hasn't been fixed. I think I will need to adjust my throttle linkage a little there seems to be a lot of play before the cable actually grabs.
 

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Thank you, Right now I'm adding stuff to make it street legal. The 18 miles I've put on it though. I really like it and smile pretty much the whole time. I did loosen my floor board bolts slightly just encase the cracking issue hasn't been fixed. I think I will need to adjust my throttle linkage a little there seems to be a lot of play before the cable actually grabs.
Before you adjust the throttle cable, first verify you are hitting full throttle when the pedal is floored. If you are, your better to leave the cable alone. Your already getting maximum travel, and putting it tighter may cause you to stretch the cable at full throttle. That slack you have now is also there for safety purposes.

I am envious too. I want a Wolverine so bad it hurts. Love those machines.
 

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Thank you, Right now I'm adding stuff to make it street legal. The 18 miles I've put on it though. I really like it and smile pretty much the whole time. I did loosen my floor board bolts slightly just encase the cracking issue hasn't been fixed. I think I will need to adjust my throttle linkage a little there seems to be a lot of play before the cable actually grabs.
I recently replaced my floor boards (under warranty) myself and the replacement ones still had a huge gap. I ended up using washers under them to they are supported. I believe the torque spec on the floor bolts is like 2.5 ft lbs or something anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My front window (324.00) and led light bar (40.00) will be delivered tomorrow. Next is either the street legal kit (290.00) or the led tail lights with reverse lights (149.00).
 

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My front window (324.00) and led light bar (40.00) will be delivered tomorrow. Next is either the street legal kit (290.00) or the led tail lights with reverse lights (149.00).
Just out of curiosity, what light bar did you get?

Sent from my Z971 using Tapatalk
 

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I didn't realize there would be an issue, Can you explain further. I would really not like to ruin anything.
 

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I didn't realize there would be an issue, Can you explain further. I would really not like to ruin anything.
Sure. I went through this when I was looking at light bars for my Grizzly. If that light draws to much electricity the charging system for the battery won't be able to keep the battery charged and run the light at the same time. Causing damage to the battery and eventually making the machine have to much strain on electrical components. For a Grizzly I was looking at a three hundred and some watt and the stator wouldn't have taken it and probably overheated. This is what I gathered. Some users like @OpDawg know the limits. He actually installed a second battery. The light bar like you got is more for high power charging systems. Such as your pickup truck... I have no idea what the limits are on a SxS but I would almost bet that 1k watt light is going to push the limits. Start a thread and then all these guys who know more about atv/SxS lighting can help you out.

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I didn't realize there would be an issue, Can you explain further. I would really not like to ruin anything.
You'll be fine. You could run 4 of those light bars with no issue.

But what he is getting at is if you put too much electrical load on ypur machine, your stator will not be able to keep up. The battery will eventually die as the electrical load is more than the maximum charging output of the bike. Additionally, having a huge constant electrical load like that will eventually burn out the stator and/or the regulator-rectifier.
 

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Yes, @Grizzcrazy is correct. You likely need to keep your lighting watts to <200W. This unit https://www.ebay.com/itm/Quad-Row-1128W-12Inch-Led-Work-Light-Bar-Spot-Flood-Offroad-4x4-Truck-ATV-14-15-/391760413481?rmvSB=true is spec'd @ 1128W. I'm not sure what that machine has for a stator but let's assume 300-400W for the entire machine's electrical system, including your lights. This would overload your system by ~564%...

If you're in the market for LED (for performance) you need to focus on lumens and beam pattern. Basically, you should be shooting for something that produces 25,000-30,000 lumens - if you want to max out your system and still be able to charge your battery. A typical (old school) 65W halogen (hi-beam) in a car produces ~1200 lumens for reference.

I'd double check your manual and see how many watts your system is rated for... You could use that light bar, but you'll likely only be able to run for short periods, otherwise you might look at UTV, inc for a secondary alternator kit.

Hope this helps.
 

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You'll be fine. You could run 4 of those light bars with no issue.

But what he is getting at is if you put too much electrical load on ypur machine, your stator will not be able to keep up. The battery will eventually die as the electrical load is more than the maximum charging output of the bike. Additionally, having a huge constant electrical load like that will eventually burn out the stator and/or the regulator-rectifier.
So I am confused, yes it is ok or no?

Sent from my Z971 using Tapatalk
 
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Never mind. After reading opie's post I understand.

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