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Hi, all.

I'm a first-time ATV owner. I bought a new-to-me 2016 Grizzly 700 EPS on Thurday, and my questions at this point are kind of general. The machine is in near-pristine shape with only 760 miles and 118 hours, and I want to keep it running well for years to come.

I'm going to use the machine almost exclusively as a work machine pulling a 20cuft steel dump cart loaded with dirt, gravel, rock, downed tree branches, etc. on our 10 acres. I may put a blade on it at some point, but we don't get a lot of deep snow here in the Kansas City area, and I have a Ford 8N for that anyway.

I'll keep the loads within towing and tongue weight, but my question here is: Should I take it out on the road now and again to open it up and "blow the cobs out" as my dad used to say? Seems that the common wisdom is to really open it up now and again.

Also, other than general maintenance such as fluids checks and changes, lubrication, air filter cleaning, etc., are there other things I should do or watch for? I watched plenty of Youtube maintenance videos from DirtTrax and other vendors over the past couple of months trying to educate myself, but wanted any advice from real owners with skin in the game. I'm reasonably handy and can do my own work, but need suggestions about what needs watchin'.

Thanks.
 

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Welcome to the form Caleb. A few things comes to mind with what you are going to be using your Grizzly for. First off I would install a EHS Racing fuel controller as all 2016 & Newer Grizzly's/Kodiaks are Stupid lean in the lower Rpm range. You can look up EHS racing on Youtube and see for your self.
Second if you are going to be pulling heavy loads I would be using low range and I would suggest having your Clutch sheave machined by Coop45. Your stock grizzly has a around a 2.42 to 1 clutch ratio. With a Coop45 machined sheave you will be around a 3.0 to 1 clutch ratio with no top end loss which would help the CVT system on your grizzly pulling those heavy loads. You can look up coop45 Mod 3 on Youtube as well.

I check my air filter on a regular basis to make sure no dirt is going into the engine. If you are going to be using it for a work horse IMO I would change the differential fluids more often VS using it as a play quad as heavy loads will break the oil down quicker and make sure you use only Yamaha gear lube for the differentials. In case you dont know there is a upper and lower Grease zerk on the rear suspension above and below the axle shafts on both sides.

And lastly I would start a signature saying what year your Grizzly is and if you have any mods or add on's as this will help at a later date if/when any issues arise.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the information. I won't be using the machine all the time for heavy loads--just occasionally. Still, I appreciate your suggestions about keeping the Grizzly in top shape. I'd also made a note to myself earlier in the day about finding all of the hidden zerks.



It's been awhile since I was on a forum with this posting platform, so I'm still trying to find out how to add a sig file to my posts.


~Caleb
 

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Thanks for the information. I won't be using the machine all the time for heavy loads--just occasionally. Still, I appreciate your suggestions about keeping the Grizzly in top shape. I'd also made a note to myself earlier in the day about finding all of the hidden zerks.



It's been awhile since I was on a forum with this posting platform, so I'm still trying to find out how to add a sig file to my posts.


~Caleb

On the RH side at the top of the page there is a Log out, Right next to it is the Users CP (Control panel). You can add your signature, add photos, etc in the users cp.
 

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Thanks.

On the RH side at the top of the page there is a Log out, Right next to it is the Users CP (Control panel). You can add your signature, add photos, etc in the users cp.

Got it. The only thing I can't figure out is how to adjust font size, but that's no biggie. Thanks again.
 

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Zrt1200, is there an issue with non-stock (larger) tires? I thought I'd read somewhere awhile back that increasing tire size can cause premature suspension and steering wear. The seller said the tires are 1" larger than stock. Just wondering if I need to revert back to stock tires and sell these. Seller said he put the Buzz Saws on because he was concerned about potential punctures with the stock tires around his place (lots of thorns and such, I guess).
 

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Zrt1200, is there an issue with non-stock (larger) tires? I thought I'd read somewhere awhile back that increasing tire size can cause premature suspension and steering wear. The seller said the tires are 1" larger than stock. Just wondering if I need to revert back to stock tires and sell these. Seller said he put the Buzz Saws on because he was concerned about potential punctures with the stock tires around his place (lots of thorns and such, I guess).
1" over size tire will NOT be a problem to your suspension nor steering in anyway.
 

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1" over size tire will NOT be a problem to your suspension nor steering in anyway.

X2. No problem with 1" over sized tires.
 

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Taller tires cause extra drag on the drive system, and the wet clutch is the slippage mechanism between the engine and the power to the tire patch to the ground.
Raising the pulley ratio but machining will make pulling much easier on your wet clutch, and overcome the extra drag from taller tires. Not absolutely needed but will damn sure be appreciated by you and the wet clutch.
As for blowing the cobs out, hell yes! This should be in the owners manual as a daily requirement for a happy grizz!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks to all who offered advice and opinion. I really appreciate it.
 

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Welcome to GC. Yes, you should absolutely "blow out the cobwebs" from time to time. My reasoning may be different than others, though and that is that it will put a giant smile on your face! I wouldn't put a bunch on money in the machine for your intended uses unless you just have cash to burn. If it has larger than stock tires, I'd throw 1.7mm of shim and a purple spring in there to compensate and then block the AIS to reduce or eliminate the popping on decal. They started being lean in 14 and the AIS block all but eliminated popping on my machine. As for diff oil... lots of guys run lots of different oils. I run Bel-Ray hypoid gear oil in the diff and final drive. Manufacturer oils are generally overpriced IMO.
 

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Can I ask why that is? I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube.

Sorry I didn't see your post earlier. The Yamaha Gear oil/lube has special friction modifiers for there posi differentials. A mechanic I know at a Yamaha dealership told me that the Yamaha posi gear oil is different than most all other posi differential gear oils. You are only talking a several oz per differential so why take the chance on another brand of oil.
 

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Sorry I didn't see your post earlier. The Yamaha Gear oil/lube has special friction modifiers for there posi differentials. A mechanic I know at a Yamaha dealership told me that the Yamaha posi gear oil is different than most all other posi differential gear oils. You are only talking a several oz per differential so why take the chance on another brand of oil.

I guess I'm really confused now because my owner's manual says "Mobilfluid 424" for the final gear oil and "SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid gear oil" for the Differential. It doesn't say anything about Yamaha-branded fluids.
 

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Welcome to GC. Yes, you should absolutely "blow out the cobwebs" from time to time. My reasoning may be different than others, though and that is that it will put a giant smile on your face! I wouldn't put a bunch on money in the machine for your intended uses unless you just have cash to burn. If it has larger than stock tires, I'd throw 1.7mm of shim and a purple spring in there to compensate and then block the AIS to reduce or eliminate the popping on decal. They started being lean in 14 and the AIS block all but eliminated popping on my machine. As for diff oil... lots of guys run lots of different oils. I run Bel-Ray hypoid gear oil in the diff and final drive. Manufacturer oils are generally overpriced IMO.

I appreciate the suggestions, but I have no idea what you mean about "throw 1.7mm of shim and a purple spring in there to compensate and then block the AIS..." I have no idea what any of that means.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
More Newbie Questions

A few more questions from an absolute novice:

  • Does the Grizzly benefit from higher-octane gas?
  • Is there any need for ethanol-free gas? I use ethanol-free gas in my big Exmark commercial mower, but didn't know if that applied to the Grizzly.
  • Should I drive the Grizzly in 4wd now and again? My '99 Tacoma 4x4 says to run in 4wd every now and again to lubricate the front wheel bearings.
  • For winter storage, is there any need to use an engine fogger? There's nothing in the owner's manual about that. I trickle charge the tractor & mower batteries, and will do the same with the Grizzly, but I'd appreciate any additional winter-storage recos for the Grizzly.
Thanks.
 

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I appreciate the suggestions, but I have no idea what you mean about "throw 1.7mm of shim and a purple spring in there to compensate and then block the AIS..." I have no idea what any of that means.
People add shims 1, 1.5, or 1.7mm behind the collar that the movable primary sheave slides on. This shims the primary sheaves apart and permits the drive belt to drop lower down into a smaller arc on the primary and ride higher around the secondary increasing your initial cvt ratio from 2.45 to about 2.75:1 with 1.5mm of shims witch multiplies off the line torque and helps compensate for larger heavier tires.

Your CVT spring is located on the secondary or driven sheave. The purple EPI spring is simply a stronger spring then stock. It helps keep clamping power on the belt when adding shims, or a machine sheave. It also helps improve backshift cvt system, and keeps you in a lower gear a bit longer witch again helps turn bigger, heavier, more aggressive tires.
 

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Thanks

People add shims 1, 1.5, or 1.7mm behind the collar that the movable primary sheave slides on. This shims the primary sheaves apart and permits the drive belt to drop lower down into a smaller arc on the primary and ride higher around the secondary increasing your initial cvt ratio from 2.45 to about 2.75:1 with 1.5mm of shims witch multiplies off the line torque and helps compensate for larger heavier tires.

Your CVT spring is located on the secondary or driven sheave. The purple EPI spring is simply a stronger spring then stock. It helps keep clamping power on the belt when adding shims, or a machine sheave. It also helps improve backshift cvt system, and keeps you in a lower gear a bit longer witch again helps turn bigger, heavier, more aggressive tires.

I appreciate the clarification. Thanks.
 

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Welcome to GC. Yes, you should absolutely "blow out the cobwebs" from time to time. My reasoning may be different than others, though and that is that it will put a giant smile on your face! I wouldn't put a bunch on money in the machine for your intended uses unless you just have cash to burn. If it has larger than stock tires, I'd throw 1.7mm of shim and a purple spring in there to compensate and then block the AIS to reduce or eliminate the popping on decal. They started being lean in 14 and the AIS block all but eliminated popping on my machine. As for diff oil... lots of guys run lots of different oils. I run Bel-Ray hypoid gear oil in the diff and final drive. Manufacturer oils are generally overpriced IMO.

I appreciate the suggestions, but I have no idea what you mean about "throw 1.7mm of shim and a purple spring in there to compensate and then block the AIS..." I have no idea what any of that means.
ROFLMAO....and I thought it was just me. These long time racers and wrenchers forget sometimes, that some of us are newbies. I often find that I have to read more, or Google some of the lingo to make sense.
As it stands, I'm going to have to open mine up to see if any of these mods have been done or not, as the previous owner was no help at all. Only thing I know for sure, is it is currently rolling on 31" outlaws, so mods may have been done.
Some terms I'm still trying to translate into normal speech.
 
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