No grease in primary clutch sheave?

14027 Views 38 Replies 9 Participants Last post by p.govensky, 10 mo ago

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · Dec 20, 2017 (Edited)

Finally got to taking the primary sheave off and inside the housing I found a piece of a slider and a piece of the little "U" thingy that goes on the slider. I took the sheave apart and to my amazement it was completely dry in there. When I say dry I mean bone dry. There was lots of what seems like black metallic dust. There's also worn grooves at the top of where the rollers roll up to. The sliders seem very brittle. The plate is also very worn where the sliders go. I'm glad I took it apart before it came apart by itself! There's no apparent damage from the pieces I found inside the housing.

I ordered a whole new outer primary sheave assembly. Would it be wise to also get the fixed sheave since it will be more worn than the new outer sheave?

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rick

· #2 · Dec 20, 2017

Give us info on your Atv. Year/size

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 20, 2017 (Edited)

- 2002 Grizzly 660 (Blue)
- 9500 km (5900 miles)
- approx. 1500hrs
- Everything seems stock

Vincent

· #4 · Dec 20, 2017

Scorpyon said:
I ordered a whole new outer primary sheave assembly. Would it be wise to also get the fixed sheave since it will be more worn than the new outer sheave?

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If your fixed sheave doesn't have and grooves and is still in good shape, I think it will be fine to reuse. Just scuff it up with a Scotch bright pad, clean it, and install it.

Ridgway81432

· #5 · Dec 20, 2017

You said sliders, not roller weights. If that is the case it seems someone went grease less with your set-up.
You can start a signature listing things you know about your grizz to help us help you.
Also, a picture of your weights will help.
Was there a grease cover on the movable primary sheave?

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 20, 2017

4

Rollers, inside of sheave, worn plate and broken slider.

2002 Grizzly 660 (Blue)
9500 Km (5900 miles)
approx. 1500 hrs
Everything seems stock

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Ridgway81432

· #7 · Dec 20, 2017

I looks like someone ran the stock weights without grease. And there is excessive wear on the cam plate.
New weights with covers, cam plate sliders a a little grease are needed.
Was there a grease cover? It looked like a small screw was in the pan in a previous picture.

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 20, 2017

Ridgway81432 said:
Was there a grease cover? It looked like a small screw was in the pan in a previous picture.

A grease cover? No. I didn't know it needed one. I didn't see any on the parts list either.

Do you mean this?

2002 Grizzly 660 (Blue)
9500 Km (5900 miles)
approx. 1500 hrs
Everything seems stock

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reogem

· #9 · Dec 20, 2017

Nothing wrong with going grease less but like anything else it has to be done right.
Before something like 2011 the OEM roller weights were 2 piece those can not be run grease less. The plastic covers can't take it. In this pictures is a 660 weight on the left ran with grease for 5-6000 miles see the flat spot. That was typical of those weights. The weight on the right is a OEM 2011 weight ran greaseless for about the same mileage. It is in perfect condition. The plastic covers are fused to the metal weight and a much tougher composite than the older 2 piece weights.

Also there is are upgraded sliders, the four pieces on the camplate that the primary drives on, available. They do not have the metal clip and are made of the same composite as the roller weights. They can take the heat and torque of the engine. To use the better sliders you need to use a new style 700 camplate.

Looking at your pictures the primary can be salvaged. If your interested PM me and I'll explain how to clean it up.
You will need to get new DRpulley roller weights (not sliders), a new OEM 700 camplate and the new sliders also DRpulley.
If you want to use grease ordered a new grease cover and O-ring the screws will be much cheaper at a hardware store.

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reogem

· #10 · Dec 20, 2017

I need to add that I have been running all of my machines for 10's of thousands of mile greaseless without any problems.

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 20, 2017 (Edited)

Well, I've already ordered a complete primary outer sheave assembly. I'll go stock for now but I do admit it would be nice to not have to worry about having enough grease in there after a few hundred miles.

So you're saying that the only things I need different from stock is the plate from an 07 Grizz, after market rollers and sliders and a grease cover from a 07 Grizzly?

2002 Grizzly 660 (Blue),9500 Km (5900 miles), approx. 1500 hrs, everything stock.

dezz

· #12 · Dec 21, 2017

Do not buy another 660 cam plate.

Buy a 700 cam plate with the 700 sliders. You'll never have another slider failure or wear again.

I have replaced several 660 cam plates due to excessive slider wear, one of them was my own. I installed the 700 parts in mine.
On my next clutch maintenance, I'll be taking Reogem's advice and installing newer 700 roller weights.

Reactions: 1

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · #13 · Dec 21, 2017

dezz said:
Do not buy another 660 cam plate.

Buy a 700 cam plate with the 700 sliders. You'll never have another slider failure or wear again.

I already bought the complete stock (after market) primary outer sheave assembly. I'll put it in and see how it goes. At my next sheave maintenance I'll probably switch to the 700 cam plate. I guess I'll keep the old sheave as a backup even if it's quite worn. The old weights and sliders are toast though.

Thanks for the input!

wheelsquad

· #14 · Dec 21, 2017

reogem said:
Nothing wrong with going grease less but like anything else it has to be done right.
Before something like 2011 the OEM roller weights were 2 piece those can not be run grease less. The plastic covers can't take it. In this pictures is a 660 weight on the left ran with grease for 5-6000 miles see the flat spot. That was typical of those weights. The weight on the right is a OEM 2011 weight ran greaseless for about the same mileage. It is in perfect condition. The plastic covers are fused to the metal weight and a much tougher composite than the older 2 piece weights.

Also there is are upgraded sliders, the four pieces on the camplate that the primary drives on, available. They do not have the metal clip and are made of the same composite as the roller weights. They can take the heat and torque of the engine. To use the better sliders you need to use a new style 700 camplate.

Looking at your pictures the primary can be salvaged. If your interested PM me and I'll explain how to clean it up.
You will need to get new DRpulley roller weights (not sliders), a new OEM 700 camplate and the new sliders also DRpulley.
If you want to use grease ordered a new grease cover and O-ring the screws will be much cheaper at a hardware store.

Hey speedwagon... Picking your brain.... You say here how well the 2011 and newer OEM rollers work when greaseless, but then later recommend Dr Pulley rollers. So is this you saying they are equal? Or do you prefer the Dr Pulley, but just run the OEM since you have them anyway?

reogem

· #15 · Dec 21, 2017

wheelsquad said:
Hey speedwagon... Picking your brain.... You say here how well the 2011 and newer OEM rollers work when greaseless, but then later recommend Dr Pulley rollers. So is this you saying they are equal? Or do you prefer the Dr Pulley, but just run the OEM since you have them anyway?

Hey..Ty..
I believe that Yamaha upgraded the rollers to the same or similar fused plastic that DrPulley uses. Older OEM had covers that came off the weights. Because the cover was not fused and an inferior plastic the cover would expand at a different rate than the metal weight allowing the cover to move. I think this was part of the flat spot problem.
That pictures is the stock 450 weights. I pull them out to install DrPulley16's that I had. I had a set of 700 OEM weights that I recently install in my Kodi. I recommended Drpulley because one they offer better variety of weights and they are cheaper. They also have the new sliders and can be ordered at the same time.
So the short answer is I personally feel the the newer OEM's are equal to DRPulley.

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · #16 · Dec 21, 2017 (Edited)

Ok, now I have some play in the shaft of the primary sheave. Up and down play. When I move it up and down it makes the shaft "walk" backwards. Is there supposed to be that much play?

I'll probably have to replace the wet clutch housing and one way bearing.

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · #17 · Dec 22, 2017

Ridgway81432 said:
Was there a grease cover? It looked like a small screw was in the pan in a previous picture.

That small screw is from the sheave cover. The screws have brass washers.

reogem

· #18 · Dec 22, 2017

Scorpyon said:
Ok, now I have some play in the shaft of the primary sheave. Up and down play. When I move it up and down it makes the shaft "walk" backwards. Is there supposed to be that much play?

I'll probably have to replace the wet clutch housing and one way bearing.

The lateral distance between the two housing bears is so close the shaft will have some movement. The third bearing in the cage stabilizes the shaft. Considering the mileage and you do have it torn down replacing the WO is a good idea. Yamaha recommends replacing the OW and clutch housing as a set. I replaced only one OW on my 660 in 12k miles. I replace 3 OW's on my 2013 700 before I needed to replace the housing. I would think you would need to replace the housing however you will be able to tell when you have it out. If it is worn bad replace it. Post some pictures of the housing.

Only use a OEM one way. The aftermarket are no good.

Scorpyon

Discussion Starter · #19 · Dec 22, 2017

reogem said:
Only use a OEM one way. The aftermarket are no good.

The dealership here wants over $100 for an OEM OW bearing... Ouch!

Are all after market OW's not good?

There has to be a company out there that makes a descent one.

jwfordracing

· #20 · Dec 22, 2017

Scorpyon said:
The dealership here wants over $100 for an OEM OW bearing... Ouch!

Are all after market OW's not good?

There has to be a company out there that makes a descent one.

Try searching EBay for your parts. It's my go to for parts. You can usually find what you're looking for. It will save you a ton of money than buying from the dealer.

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