Give us info on your Atv. Year/size
If your fixed sheave doesn't have and grooves and is still in good shape, I think it will be fine to reuse. Just scuff it up with a Scotch bright pad, clean it, and install it.I ordered a whole new outer primary sheave assembly. Would it be wise to also get the fixed sheave since it will be more worn than the new outer sheave?
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A grease cover? No. I didn't know it needed one. I didn't see any on the parts list either.Was there a grease cover? It looked like a small screw was in the pan in a previous picture.
I already bought the complete stock (after market) primary outer sheave assembly. I'll put it in and see how it goes. At my next sheave maintenance I'll probably switch to the 700 cam plate. I guess I'll keep the old sheave as a backup even if it's quite worn. The old weights and sliders are toast though.Do not buy another 660 cam plate.
Buy a 700 cam plate with the 700 sliders. You'll never have another slider failure or wear again.
Hey speedwagon... Picking your brain.... You say here how well the 2011 and newer OEM rollers work when greaseless, but then later recommend Dr Pulley rollers. So is this you saying they are equal? Or do you prefer the Dr Pulley, but just run the OEM since you have them anyway?Nothing wrong with going grease less but like anything else it has to be done right.
Before something like 2011 the OEM roller weights were 2 piece those can not be run grease less. The plastic covers can't take it. In this pictures is a 660 weight on the left ran with grease for 5-6000 miles see the flat spot. That was typical of those weights. The weight on the right is a OEM 2011 weight ran greaseless for about the same mileage. It is in perfect condition. The plastic covers are fused to the metal weight and a much tougher composite than the older 2 piece weights.
Also there is are upgraded sliders, the four pieces on the camplate that the primary drives on, available. They do not have the metal clip and are made of the same composite as the roller weights. They can take the heat and torque of the engine. To use the better sliders you need to use a new style 700 camplate.
Looking at your pictures the primary can be salvaged. If your interested PM me and I'll explain how to clean it up.
You will need to get new DRpulley roller weights (not sliders), a new OEM 700 camplate and the new sliders also DRpulley.
If you want to use grease ordered a new grease cover and O-ring the screws will be much cheaper at a hardware store.
Hey..Ty..Hey speedwagon... Picking your brain.... You say here how well the 2011 and newer OEM rollers work when greaseless, but then later recommend Dr Pulley rollers. So is this you saying they are equal? Or do you prefer the Dr Pulley, but just run the OEM since you have them anyway?
That small screw is from the sheave cover. The screws have brass washers.Was there a grease cover? It looked like a small screw was in the pan in a previous picture.
The lateral distance between the two housing bears is so close the shaft will have some movement. The third bearing in the cage stabilizes the shaft. Considering the mileage and you do have it torn down replacing the WO is a good idea. Yamaha recommends replacing the OW and clutch housing as a set. I replaced only one OW on my 660 in 12k miles. I replace 3 OW's on my 2013 700 before I needed to replace the housing. I would think you would need to replace the housing however you will be able to tell when you have it out. If it is worn bad replace it. Post some pictures of the housing.Ok, now I have some play in the shaft of the primary sheave. Up and down play. When I move it up and down it makes the shaft "walk" backwards. Is there supposed to be that much play?
I'll probably have to replace the wet clutch housing and one way bearing.
The dealership here wants over $100 for an OEM OW bearing... Ouch!Only use a OEM one way. The aftermarket are no good.
Try searching EBay for your parts. It's my go to for parts. You can usually find what you're looking for. It will save you a ton of money than buying from the dealer.The dealership here wants over $100 for an OEM OW bearing... Ouch!
Are all after market OW's not good?
There has to be a company out there that makes a descent one.