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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
OEM parts are very expensive wherever you buy them. I'm wondering if someone makes an after market OWB that is of good quality.
 

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OEM parts are very expensive wherever you buy them. I'm wondering if someone makes an after market OWB that is of good quality.
Up to you.


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$75.00 online at Part Shark
No after market is any good. If you buy one off ebay for 15 -30 buck might as well buy 5-6 of them you'll need'em.

Of course if it is working now you could skip it. You could take a look at it. If you see flat spots or any deformation of the spring replace it.
If your riding style doesn't really require engine braking you could skip it. But if it starts freewheeling or grinding it will need to be replaced.

Hearing so many negatives about the Chinese OW's I bought one to see what the problem was. I don't have any pictures of the cheap OW.
This a picture of an old worn out OEM OW I posted for reference.
When I looked over the cheap OW I saw immediately that the machined groove in the sprags where the spring rides was off center on more than half of the sprags. The sprags were also machine thick & thin and short and tall. If you understand how a OW works and how close the tolerances must be. You can see with a naked eye why the cheap ones are junk.
 

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Jwfordracing -
I'm looking for a one way bearing, not a dry clutch.
X-2 with REOGEM on Partshark and O.E.M. for One Ways.....
or don't get out sight of the igloo.
Many other members have experimented with flea bay one way bearings with poor reviews. This is one part that saving money on will cost you more in time replacing often.
 

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Trust us on this one with the oneway bearing (aka: Sprag Clutch). We have the experience to back it up.
There is only one option....OEM.

All others are inferior and will cause problems.

That oneway bearing, by design, is expensive to make. It has moving parts and must be built extra precise. If the bearing is cheap to purchase, then it must be built improperly with poor machining work and poor materials.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Trust us on this one with the oneway bearing (aka: Sprag Clutch).
Don't worry, I do trust you guys on this. I never had a doubt. I was just asking if there was a company that made a good after market OWB. I guess not. OEM it will be.

Are there any other parts that I should be aware of that must be OEM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
OEM one way bearing has been ordered. Will be here in January.
 

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Are there any other parts that I should be aware of that must be OEM?
Many recommend staying away from all popo parts too, O.E.M. or other:)
 
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Nothing wrong with going grease less but like anything else it has to be done right.
Before something like 2011 the OEM roller weights were 2 piece those can not be run grease less. The plastic covers can't take it. In this pictures is a 660 weight on the left ran with grease for 5-6000 miles see the flat spot. That was typical of those weights. The weight on the right is a OEM 2011 weight ran greaseless for about the same mileage. It is in perfect condition. The plastic covers are fused to the metal weight and a much tougher composite than the older 2 piece weights.

Also there is are upgraded sliders, the four pieces on the camplate that the primary drives on, available. They do not have the metal clip and are made of the same composite as the roller weights. They can take the heat and torque of the engine. To use the better sliders you need to use a new style 700 camplate.

Looking at your pictures the primary can be salvaged. If your interested PM me and I'll explain how to clean it up.
You will need to get new DRpulley roller weights (not sliders), a new OEM 700 camplate and the new sliders also DRpulley.
If you want to use grease ordered a new grease cover and O-ring the screws will be much cheaper at a hardware store.
Do not buy another 660 cam plate.

Buy a 700 cam plate with the 700 sliders. You'll never have another slider failure or wear again.

I have replaced several 660 cam plates due to excessive slider wear, one of them was my own. I installed the 700 parts in mine.
On my next clutch maintenance, I'll be taking Reogem's advice and installing newer 700 roller weights.
Hey guys, wanted to ask as soon as you said this about the sliders, but also didn't want to distract from the OP, so now that it looks like his open concerns have been answered...

It looks like from what I see here, one can switch to the newer style cam plate sliders without switching to a 700 cam plate: https://www.buggypartsnw.com/index.php/dr-pulley-slider-weight-30x15-for-rhino-grizzly.html

Dr. Pulley Variator Slides SP3015-Z (169-373)



Is that a proper assessment? Or do you need to fully switch to the 700 cam plate to see the long term wear benefits?
 

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Thanks..Ty..Good point.
That is true should have pointed that out. Drpulley has had sliders that eliminate the metal clip used them on my 660 and 450. My 700 had the OEM with the new camplate and the new composite sliders without the clips.

One thing just I remembered the DRPulley sliders on the 660 had to be filed a little as they would jam at the bottom of the slide tower. I see that HW is offering to machine the tower down now.
 

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I didn't know Dr.Pulley had modified 660 sliders.....happy I know now.
 

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Thanks..Ty..Good point.
That is true should have pointed that out. Drpulley has had sliders that eliminate the metal clip used them on my 660 and 450. My 700 had the OEM with the new camplate and the new composite sliders without the clips.

One thing just I remembered the DRPulley sliders on the 660 had to be filed a little as they would jam at the bottom of the slide tower. I see that HW is offering to machine the tower down now.
Good info. Looks like I'll buy a set for next time I'm in there. Need to see how my overdrive sliders are doing and switch to greaseless rollers if necessary.

Did the Dr Pulley upgraded cam plate sliders fit as they should on your 450, without sanding?
 

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Finally got to taking the primary sheave off and inside the housing I found a piece of a slider and a piece of the little "U" thingy that goes on the slider. I took the sheave apart and to my amazement it was completely dry in there. When I say dry I mean bone dry. There was lots of what seems like black metallic dust. There's also worn grooves at the top of where the rollers roll up to. The sliders seem very brittle. The plate is also very worn where the sliders go. I'm glad I took it apart before it came apart by itself! There's no apparent damage from the pieces I found inside the housing.

I ordered a whole new outer primary sheave assembly. Would it be wise to also get the fixed sheave since it will be more worn than the new outer sheave?

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I just pulled my 2003 Yamaha Grizzly 660 apart and found the exact same thing. Not one ounce of grease. I too have groves in the carrier from the weights. All kinds of dust probably from the belt. This ATV wasn't taken care of so I have already replaced all the coolant items from the radiator on back to the pump and head. Both sides of the sheaves have grooves in them but they are more wavy than deep gouged if that makes any sense. I think that I'm just going to suck it up and get a new set, the cam also has grooves from the weights. I just signed up today so if I didn't do the right way about posting....I apologize in advance.
 

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Many of us run with out grease. Yamaha is the only company that grease this type of CVT. It is accepted that they grease it for the noise reduction.
The wavy grooves on the sheave faces are common. Caused by the belt running in the same area a lot, cruising at the same speeds over and over. You indicate the machine is 19 years old but not the mileage.
I've actually seen more damage from grease contaminated with sand, gravel and belt shedding in the CVT's that running greaseless.
 
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Good Morning, Thanks for the reply. On the odometer states only 3395. I find that hard to believe with all the issues that came with the machine. I've listened to videos about each 5000 KM go and check the CVT. I'm not to sure on the part that slides when you throttle up. That has lots of gouges from being dry. I seen a whole set up on Ebay for a good price. I purchased a head and very satisfied with the performance. I've never driven this 660 yet, but throttling up on my trailer sounds like this Grizzly is a beast of machine.
 

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Many of us run with out grease. Yamaha is the only company that grease this type of CVT. It is accepted that they grease it for the noise reduction.
The wavy grooves on the sheave faces are common. Caused by the belt running in the same area a lot, cruising at the same speeds over and over. You indicate the machine is 19 years old but not the mileage.
I've actually seen more damage from grease contaminated with sand, gravel and belt shedding in the CVT's that running greaseless.
So I was able to get the CVT back together and it's very quiet now with no banging. I did however purchase a spare sheave for future builds. I was looking on line for some brackets to hold some off road lights. Despite replacing the stock lights, they just are not that good, maybe hard to remove GA clay
 
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