No neutral light

2204 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Lennybeasley, 9 d ago

jsnfltn

Discussion Starter · Nov 22, 2020

Hey guys need some help here. 03 660 and the neutral light comes on less then have the time I shift it in neutral. So you all know that to start it you have to pull in brake. So I’ve read the post on here about cleaning the switch under the air box. I did that and now it doesnt come on at all. Everything works has usually but this is just annoying.
any advance on what to do next?
thanks

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dezz

· #2 · Nov 23, 2020

Are you sure you cleaned the correct switch? It must be removed and all the contacts cleaned on it. A pencil eraser works good for this after cleaning with contact cleaner (I ask this question because many remove or clean the wrong switch)

But since it hasn't worked since you worked on it, you must likely removed the correct switch. Additionally, if it hasn't worked since, then it must of been something you did or did not do. If the contacts are really badly worn or grooved on the switch, you may have to replace it.
First try removing the switch again and dry-cleaning the contacts again. Additionally, try cleaning the contact inside the transmission. Its tight to do, but you can do it.

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jsnfltn

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 24, 2020

Thanks for the reply. I did remove the correct switch and cleaned the 3 copper contacts added dielectric grease. Used it a couple times and started working again. Stated it 4-5 times yesterday it worked everytime. Will do a test today and make sure it still working

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85Aluma

· #4 · Nov 24, 2020

Interesting my 2016 for the first time today the neutral light did not come on . Put it away a couple hours ago , went out the garage and now its working ??? Machine was tore down twice by dealer for top end rebuild . Think something did not get pushed in all the way or something else . Only 765 miles on it seems like it's one thing after another LOL

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SteveH-CO

· #5 · 3 mo ago

More Neutral Light woes. '05 Grizzly 660 with 800 miles - no electrical woes, except the Neutral and Park lights have always been wonky and erratic.

I removed the air box and cleaned both the larger rotary switch on the side of the trans case, and the 'spark plug' neutral switch on the top of the case. I tested the neutral switch with a VOM and it shows no resistance under any condition (plunger in or out). I replaced the neutral switch with an eBay cheapie and it too shows no resistance, plunger in or out. I tried grounding the neutral wire to the engine case, and the neutral light does not come on. When the neutral light wire is disconnected (as noted on the forum), the 'reverse' light comes on. So, I put the whole thing together and parked it.

Later, after I put the ATV back in my barn, the neutral light casually came on. It perhaps works 30% of the time when you are in neutral.

So, how in the heck does the 'spark plug' neutral switch work? It's a simple plunger switch, yet both of mine just 'sorta work' when the feel like it. The switches both fail a simple continuity (resistance) test. But 'sorta work' when installed. I learned that if you leave off the thin washer, the neutral switch will jam the transmission, so that tells me that the neutral switch is definitely screwed in far enough. Thoughts? Thanks!

Steve

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reogem

· #6 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

The "spark plug" shaped switch is the reverse switch. Why you are getting faulty readings on two switches possibly a coincidence or faulty VOM. If you ground the G/W wire the reverse light will go out plus the reverse rev limiter will be disabled.

I would focus on the gear position switch and related wires. Also check the connections on the back of the display.

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SteveH-CO

· #7 · 3 mo ago

@reogem - thanks. Your reply was very helpful!

I was confused on the reverse light because when you put the ATV in neutral, the rod inside the transmission spins to press the plunger (apparently, it does so as well in 'reverse'.

I will check the gear position switch again and back-of-the-display connection.

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SteveH-CO

· #8 · 3 mo ago

I cleaned the contacts again on the shift position switch (side of the transmission) and adjusted the shift rod one 'turn' (360 degrees) to make it longer. This seemed to help the shifting throughout the range.

Later, I realized that my ATV has always had trouble fully getting into 'Low' and 'Park' - which indicates that the shift rod is too short. I will add one more turn and see if that helps the shifting at the ends of the spectrum. But, it seems like I made a little progress last night.

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Lennybeasley

· #9 · 9 d ago

SteveH-CO said:
More Neutral Light woes. '05 Grizzly 660 with 800 miles - no electrical woes, except the Neutral and Park lights have always been wonky and erratic.

I removed the air box and cleaned both the larger rotary switch on the side of the trans case, and the 'spark plug' neutral switch on the top of the case. I tested the neutral switch with a VOM and it shows no resistance under any condition (plunger in or out). I replaced the neutral switch with an eBay cheapie and it too shows no resistance, plunger in or out. I tried grounding the neutral wire to the engine case, and the neutral light does not come on. When the neutral light wire is disconnected (as noted on the forum), the 'reverse' light comes on. So, I put the whole thing together and parked it.

Later, after I put the ATV back in my barn, the neutral light casually came on. It perhaps works 30% of the time when you are in neutral.

So, how in the heck does the 'spark plug' neutral switch work? It's a simple plunger switch, yet both of mine just 'sorta work' when the feel like it. The switches both fail a simple continuity (resistance) test. But 'sorta work' when installed. I learned that if you leave off the thin washer, the neutral switch will jam the transmission, so that tells me that the neutral switch is definitely screwed in far enough. Thoughts? Thanks!

the backrooms
Steve

Thank you for telling me about this

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