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OEM Replacement Crankcase Cover 3B4-15411-10-00

2983 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  mainehunter, 
D
I ordered the updated (in 2009) crankcase cover to address the stator cooling problem on my 2008 Grizzly 700 EPS.

The part looks refurbished to me, but I'm not sure. I just assumed there would be SOME type of finish over the bare aluminum.

Would others who have replaced their crankcase covers please take a look and comment?

Thanks!!
Dave

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MINE WAS BRIGHT AND SHINEY, CAN STILL TELL AFTER A YEAR THE DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR THAT ITS BEEN REPLACED. ITS AT HOME WILL CHECK TONIGHT ABOUT THE GRINDING MARKS TO SEE IF THERE ARE ANY ON MINE
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mainehunter
dcorneli said:
I ordered the updated (in 2009) crankcase cover to address the stator cooling problem on my 2008 Grizzly 700 EPS.

The part looks refurbished to me, but I'm not sure. I just assumed there would be SOME type of finish over the bare aluminum.

Would others who have replaced their crankcase covers please take a look and comment?

Thanks!!
Dave
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The cover does not come with any finish coating over the bare aluminum. The grinding marks are where the vents and sprues were ground off after the part came out of the casting mold. That one looks exactly like the one I bought a few months ago. The area that were machined for bearings and such are perfectly new. You should be all set with that cover.
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dcorneli said:
I ordered the updated (in 2009) crankcase cover to address the stator cooling problem on my 2008 Grizzly 700 EPS.

The part looks refurbished to me, but I'm not sure. I just assumed there would be SOME type of finish over the bare aluminum.

Would others who have replaced their crankcase covers please take a look and comment?

Thanks!!
Dave
Click to expand...


make sure you install the small bushing on inside of cover for on of the shafts. On Yamaha exploded view I couldn't see it but on one of the posts here on GC there is a list of parts required. You could always drill a hole through your old cover and knock the old bushing out if you didn't order new one
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mainehunter
To save yourself a huge headache, take the new cover, your new water pump seals and bearing, your water pump impeller, and the new bushing for the starter gear position shaft to a Yamaha service dealer and pay them to install those parts in the cover. Everything else you can do yourself with standard hand tools, but they have the right tool to install those fussy little parts without breaking anything. My dealer charged me 1/2 hr labor ($40.00) and it was worth twice that to have it done right. There is a huge thread on all of this in this forum with complete parts list and many tips and instructions. Check it out. It's not a hard job, just one that requires a careful, step by step approach. It's great to have the peace of mind, I added a little voltmeter to my dash to always know that the old green grizz is charging!
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mainehunter
Also, the "various lapping planes" are the normal marks/lines left my the end mill when milling a flat surface, and the "scratches from possibly scraping stator" are the marks left from pulling the finished part from the foundry mold. I have been a machinist, and have worked with cast parts for 30+ years, so I am very familiar with all of that stuff. Hope this helps you out. When I received mine none of that gave me a second thought because I have seen that kind of stuff for so long. I can understand that someone who is not accustomed to machining and casting methods might be a bit surprised.
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