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You can go to their site listed...
They said 31's but tires can be different than stated size on the sidewall. I bet those are 14" wheels.
 

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You can go to their site listed...
They said 31's but tires can be different than stated size on the sidewall. I bet those are 14" wheels.
I cant see on here where they say size. I tried to post the link but it says not found. Only way is to find the image from google search and use that images link. All they say, that I can find, is "fat set of wheels and tires"
 

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Read post #521, first line for the 31" and the tire model.
Go to their site and use the contact button.
They list their phone and address info along with their e-message contact page.
It's a dealer but maybe they will reply.
 

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Read post #521, first line for the 31" and the tire model.
Go to their site and use the contact button.
They list their phone and address info along with their e-message contact page.
It's a dealer but maybe they will reply.
Post 521 is a different 4wheeler than the one I posted, different wheels and tires. The image I posted is very old and the dealer doesnt have it in inventory anymore which is why the link is broken.
 

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2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
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Agreed that those are 14" wheels when you look at the size of the front rock guard comparing the gap to the inside diameter of the wheel. Top picture does show that the rock guard plate is intact and has to be the guard used for 12" wheels, that gap is way too big and has to be 14" wheels. The wheels being ITP SS212 wheels and look to be 14"x8" where the offset has the wheels pushed pretty far away from the axle.
 
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Agreed that those are 14" wheels when you look at the size of the front rock guard comparing the gap to the inside diameter of the wheel. Top picture does show that the rock guard plate is intact and has to be the guard used for 12" wheels, that gap is way too big and has to be 14" wheels. The wheels being ITP SS212 wheels and look to be 14"x8" where the offset has the wheels pushed pretty far away from the axle.
Ill have to check what tge 589s in 14s came in. Might be 30s. What is the rock guard your pointing out? Its kinda dark in there. Is the the frame skid plate or the suspension guard (i cant make out if there is one or not)?
 

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2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
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On a wheel hub from the factory there is a rock guard that is attached, all four on the Grizzly and appears only the fronts on the Kodiak 700 . It is made from sheet metal, stamped out and is bigger in diameter than the brake rotor. There was always a standard size made for 12" wheels but in 2019 there were some Grizzly models that came with 14" wheels and that rock guard also increased in size. If your Grizzly model came with 14" wheels, it also came with appropriate sized rock guards and if you wanted to switch to 12" wheels, you have to address that rock guard and make it smaller, remove it or replace it with the one made for the 12" wheels.

Point being that rock guard is roughly 1-2cm smaller in diameter than the inside diameter of the OEM wheels. In the those pictures you posted of that Kodiak 700, the diameter of the rock guard is clearly much smaller than the inside diameter of that wheel and has a much larger gap than there would be OEM. The Kodiak 700 has only ever come with 12" wheels thus it has the smaller diameter rock guard. In that top picture I can clearly see the rock guard on the front left wheel. Since I could see that it was indeed the rock guard on the top picture, the bottom picture shows what kind of gap there is and confirms those are not 12" wheels.

Circled in red is the item I'm referring to.
Font Slope Rectangle Parallel Auto part


<removes Inspector Clouseau hat and magnifying glass>
 
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On a wheel hub from the factory there is a rock guard that is attached, all four on the Grizzly and appears only the fronts on the Kodiak 700 . It is made from sheet metal, stamped out and is bigger in diameter than the brake rotor. There was always a standard size made for 12" wheels but in 2019 there were some Grizzly models that came with 14" wheels and that rock guard also increased in size. If your Grizzly model came with 14" wheels, it also came with appropriate sized rock guards and if you wanted to switch to 12" wheels, you have to address that rock guard and make it smaller, remove it or replace it with the one made for the 12" wheels.

Point being that rock guard is roughly 1-2cm smaller in diameter than the inside diameter of the OEM wheels. In the those pictures you posted of that Kodiak 700, the diameter of the rock guard is clearly much smaller than the inside diameter of that wheel and has a much larger gap than there would be OEM. The Kodiak 700 has only ever come with 12" wheels thus it has the smaller diameter rock guard. In that top picture I can clearly see the rock guard on the front left wheel. Since I could see that it was indeed the rock guard on the top picture, the bottom picture shows what kind of gap there is and confirms those are not 12" wheels.

Circled in red is the item I'm referring to.
View attachment 102667

<removes Inspector Clouseau hat and magnifying glass>
Dang bud if I have trouble figuring it out after that lesson...there's no hope for me. Thanks a bunch. Well I guess I narrowed my wheel model/size down. Now to find a 30 that looks good and performs well. The 30x14 Zillas on a 2 + 5 in this rim should get this look and I would have a great all around Low gear trail (with the cvt work) and mud machine. Nothing crazy like Osta does further north just seat deep stuff.
 

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2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
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haha, yeah, I obsess a bit over the 2 Grizzly 700's I've had. Doesn't help I'm cursed with a type A engineering mentality. I suppose I'm just bored "working" and have some free time right now.

Per what you're wanting to do, I'm not familiar with that type of setup since I only trail ride and do not do mud/water riding or bogging. That and being at altitude, large/heavy tires rob even more power so I want lighter tires/wheels specifically for trail and technical trail. I love the setup I'm on now but understand it would not be optimal for your conditions. Just like what you are planning on would not be optimal for here. With those large tires you are planning on, you will need to do CVT mods. Also from the things I read, be prepared for replacing axles from time to time. You might also want to look into a rear brace for your final drive (rear diff) since larger, heavy tires seem to transfer a lot of torque to the final drive mounts.
 
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haha, yeah, I obsess a bit over the 2 Grizzly 700's I've had. Doesn't help I'm cursed with a type A engineering mentality. I suppose I'm just bored "working" and have some free time right now.

Per what you're wanting to do, I'm not familiar with that type of setup since I only trail ride and do not do mud/water riding or bogging. That and being at altitude, large/heavy tires rob even more power so I want lighter tires/wheels specifically for trail and technical trail. I love the setup I'm on now but understand it would not be optimal for your conditions. Just like what you are planning on would not be optimal for here. With those large tires you are planning on, you will need to do CVT mods. Also from the things I read, be prepared for replacing axles from time to time. You might also want to look into a rear brace for your final drive (rear diff) since larger, heavy tires seem to transfer a lot of torque to the final drive mounts.
I was not aware the aftermarket makes a diff brace. For sure Im gonna want one. Im not looking for high speed trail riding. Im gonna add 2 vids of the exact place I will be riding. The last 2 years I have been on a 2stroke dirt bike out there and Im done with hauling the mail trying to keep it on the pipe. I figure mods 2 and 3 with bigger tires gets me ground clearance (lots of big can am ruts out here) and will be able to wheelie plus get top end so i can keep it in low on the trails between the mud holes.

 

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I was not aware the aftermarket makes a diff brace. For sure Im gonna want one. Im not looking for high speed trail riding. Im gonna add 2 vids of the exact place I will be riding. The last 2 years I have been on a 2stroke dirt bike out there and Im done with hauling the mail trying to keep it on the pipe. I figure mods 2 and 3 with bigger tires gets me ground clearance (lots of big can am ruts out here) and will be able to wheelie plus get top end so i can keep it in low on the trails between the mud holes.

Even with keeping your top end, your not going to want to run low range on the trails between holes. Too slow and rev too high plus higher gas consumption. That's the nice part about these bikes is it so easy to shift between H & L when needed. Keep low for the bad holes, rough spots and steep hills

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I was not aware the aftermarket makes a diff brace. For sure Im gonna want one. Im not looking for high speed trail riding. Im gonna add 2 vids of the exact place I will be riding. The last 2 years I have been on a 2stroke dirt bike out there and Im done with hauling the mail trying to keep it on the pipe. I figure mods 2 and 3 with bigger tires gets me ground clearance (lots of big can am ruts out here) and will be able to wheelie plus get top end so i can keep it in low on the trails between the mud holes.
Many members have learned a lot about their bike after starting mods not realizing what breaks in the tough stuff, thus what parts are needed to stay on the trail.
The stock Griz/Kodi models are engineered for average rider enjoyment and needs which includes the tire size offered which results in the c.v.t. ratio and transmission engineering. What you are about to take on is a redo of the drive line from the crank to the tire patch without internal power plant mods. Many here have learned how to multiply/magnify the power (torque) produced, it an engineering thing that torque can be magnified while horse power cannot be magnified.
I like how RedRocket put it that we here in the mountains have different machine requirements and limitations, much different than what you have there, so our final set-ups are different but we do modify or change out the same internal parts of the c.v.t. for what is needed.
to counteract the drag from 30" tires you will want to raise the pulley ratio as much as your system can handle, think of using the longest cheater bar on a wrench. I learned the limits on my 660 and you will find the limits on your Kodi, for me I had to rely on the machined sheave along with shims, and I also experimented with smaller diameter weights as there is a limit to how much shim can be installed. The limit of the overall system for raising the ratio will be the belt rubbing on the c.v.t. belt cover and how much belt is in the secondary at take-off.
I found these limits and determined the right secondary spring for my needs in my conditions THEN started learning about mod #2 and heavier weight to change the forward bite or cruising r.p.m.'s for different day rides and trails.
The final drive brace mentioned is important because you are going to be transferring much more power through the drive line, the extra twisting force is hard on the stock engineered set-up and ass you go you will start to find the weak links in the stock set-up.
Like mentioned before you will enjoy most riding in high gear, then low in the tough stuff, get it stuck in high then drive it out in low with the winch when needed.
 

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hey those look great! How does the 550 handle the 26" tires? Or do those measure more like a 25"? Cheers 🤘
The 550 handles them perfectly fine. I havent measured them, or if I did then I have forgotten what they were.

To be honest it didnt do bad with the swamp lites, but it was just a lot of tire for a machine that mostly is used on hard pack and farm roads.
 
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