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Discussion Starter #1
Just installed a 12" Nilight bar. The wiring relay I bought has a built in switch, but I want to wire it so the light is tied into the accessory plug like most people do. Don't trust the switch.

Attached is the wiring scheme for my relay switch. I'm thinking I need to cut either the red or white wires going to my switch and splice it in the accesory wire.



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Discussion Starter #3
No , I want to be able to use the switch individually from my headlights.

Currently I can turn the light on with the switch while the key is off. I want to be able to use the switch but only when the key is on.

Also, what if I wanted the light bar to only come on when my headlights are switched on? I'd like the ability to turn the led bar on/off however while the headlights are on.

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If it is a 3 or 5 pin switch you use the middle (5 pin middle single terminal) wire and connect it to a keyed accessory wire and it will only work when the key is on. To make work when the headlights are on connect the wire to the hot side of your headlight socket instead of the keyed accessory. Turn on the headlights and use your new switch and turn the light bar on. (headlight must be on)
 

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Grizzled
2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
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Discussion Starter #6
If it is a 3 or 5 pin switch you use the middle (5 pin middle single terminal) wire and connect it to a keyed accessory wire and it will only work when the key is on. To make work when the headlights are on connect the wire to the hot side of your headlight socket instead of the keyed accessory. Turn on the headlights and use your new switch and turn the light bar on. (headlight must be on)
It is a 3 pin switch like the picture I attached. The 2 outside wires are Red and Black. The middle wire is White. Should I pull the middle White wire from the switches 3 pin housing, or from the relay plug to tie into power?

From going by the FAQ it looks like the Blue wire is White in my instance. I'd disconnect the white wire from my 3 pin switch and instead splice it into the accessory wiring.
 

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Just wanna ride!!
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Why not just wire into your high beams with a relay. When your high beams are on, your bar is on. No worrying about power draw off the high beams as your power will either be coming direct from the battery or (better yet) indirectly from your battery from a fuse block. Check out the blue sea fuse block in my signature. Many guys run that same model which makes future electrical mods quick and easy.
 

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I wired mine up to my high beams to. Made the most sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you have a relay kit like mine in the picture above? What wire did you pull from the switch and tap into the headlight circuit? Did you pull it from the relay housing itself or disconnect it from the switch?
 

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Find the wire on the switch that is hot when the switch is off. That is the one you want to connect to accessory or headlights. The wire that get power when you switch on the switch should go to relay. Power goes into the switch flip the switch on and the power comes out of the switch and triggers the relay and the lights come on.
 

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Did you have a relay kit like mine in the picture above? What wire did you pull from the switch and tap into the headlight circuit? Did you pull it from the relay housing itself or disconnect it from the switch?
Most of my stuff is run from the battery off a fuse block. I want my stuff to work regardless of wether the key is on, so I'm not running any relays. However, finding the correct wife from the headlight should be as simple as using a light tester. Connect the alligator clip to your negative and with the ignition and high beams on, start stabbing wires that run to the headlights. When you find one that makes the light come on, move the headlight switch to low beam and see if the light goes off. This is just trial and error. The rest of it should be in the How To guide.
 

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I have a 2014 700, the wire I poached off to power my relay was the yellow high beam wire. (If yours is a different year of Grizz, I'm not sure if the wire colo is the same or not). My light bar will only come on now when I turn on my high beams. No need to run around with a light bar and low beams lol. My rock lights though, can be used regardless of whether or not my grizzly is running so they're just hooked to a switch and not a relay.
 

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Grizzled
2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
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IIRC, what is generally common for Yamaha is the yellow wire connected to the highlight is for high beams. It is that way for the 660 along with 700 Grizzly. I believe it is the same for the 450 as well.

As for your 3 wire switch, generally, that is going to be voltage in on 1 of the wires, when the switch is tuned On, voltage will flow to the other wire. Those two wires should be your white and red. Black is usually only there if that is a lighted switch as it needs ground. Is that a lighted switch? If so, you can easily test the switch with a 9-volt battery. Put the switch in the Off position, battery + to the white wire and battery - to the black wire. Does the switch LED light up? If no, then that is the side you want voltage to show up on when you ATV is powered up via the headlights. If you now move the switch position to On, the LED should light up. If running the initial test with + to the white wire and the switch LED does light up, then move the battery + to the red wire and see if the switch LED lights up with the switch in position Off.

Relays are actually not very difficult to think through but you need to understand a few things first. I don't mean for this to sound condescending, just trying to explain it if you are having difficulties, which sounds like you are.

Does your relay have an item number on it? If it does, what is the number?

A relay is a type of switch but the internal switch is activated based upon one of the pins being energized.

If it were me trying to power your light bar and I only wanted the light bar to come on when the brights were on using a 5-pin 30A automotive Relay:

ATV headlight bright's yellow wire to your switch's white wire (assuming this is the correct wire based upon your test above). The switch red wire would go to pin 86 on the Relay. Switch black wire to ground.

From the Battery +, connect a 30A inline fuse and then connect that to Relay Pin 87. Relay Pin 85 goes to ground. Relay Pin 30 would be used for Load, i.e. your light bar + or red wire. The light bar black goes to ground. Relay Pin 87a is unused.

Use the below link as a reference for a 30A Automotive Relay.

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram25.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the help guys. I should be able to figure it out now.

My rocker switch to power the light bar is indeed lighted when switched on. There are 3 wires going to it. Red/White/Black. I'll do some testing to figure out which one is the always 'HOT' power and I want to disconnect that from the rocker switch and tie into either my Accessory keyed power, or headlights. Depending on which source I want.

My relay switch does not have numbers labeled on it, that's why it's making this a little difficult. I should be able to trace the wire colors now however and figure it out.

From what I've read I shouldn't have any issues running the light bar to my keyed accessory hot even when i have my winch's toggle power and hot grips powered from the same source.
 

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Grizzled
2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
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Yeah, personally, any aftermarket wiring harness for lighting applications is really not worth the money. Once you have the concepts down, it is pretty easy to get something wired up much better than the pre-fabricated harnesses. You could just head down to an auto-parts store and pick up a 5-Pin 30A Auto Relay for pretty cheap and do it yourself. That way you know how it is connected in the event you have issues down the road. I would also recommend drawing out your circuit of how that is connected and keeping that handy. A year down the road might be difficult to remember how and why it was connected that way.
 
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