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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, so first off, my 2012 grizzly 700 SE is idleing pretty high. It's only got 3000km on it. I can't for the life of me figure out how to adjust that as I don't have an idle screw next to the airbox nor can I adjust it on the pod.

Secondly, I'm hearing it backfire while deceleration more than normal lately, and it's definitely running rich (the spark plug is telling me that). What do you guys suspect is causing it to run rich and idle high?

The bike starts great, runs great, idles great...just too fast of an idle. Only mods I've done are slug kit for wet clutch, uni filter, and 1mm shim for primary clutch. Spark plug is black, but dry.

Thanks!
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is that the original plug, did you buy the Grizzy new or used.
I bought the quad used 4 years ago with only 360 km on it. It did have a mouse nest on top of the air filter but I cleaned that up and put new uni filter in right when I brought it home. Has been in running great for 3000km

And I did change my spark plug last fall.

I also phoned the dealer and they said to check the spark arrestor for carbon buildup which I have yet to do
 

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I was actually going to suggest removing the spark arrestor and the air filter and taking a couple laps around the house. The air cleaner should be cleaned once a month or so depending on riding conditions. Less air intake equals too rich condition just as much as constricted exhaust does.
 

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Hey, so first off, my 2012 grizzly 700 SE is idleing pretty high. It's only got 3000km on it. I can't for the life of me figure out how to adjust that as I don't have an idle screw next to the airbox nor can I adjust it on the pod.
Secondly, I'm hearing it backfire while deceleration more than normal lately, and it's definitely running rich (the spark plug is telling me that). What do you guys suspect is causing it to run rich and idle high?
The bike starts great, runs great, idles great...just too fast of an idle. Only mods I've done are slug kit for wet clutch, uni filter, and 1mm shim for primary clutch. Spark plug is black, but dry.
I bet you have multiple small issues/problems to deal with all adding up to poor performance, these are low compression engines so small adjustments can be needed.
Your bike has enough miles/km's recorded to need the valve lash adjusted, Yamaha valves are known to stretch and every bike I've checked needed this adjustment done by 1000 miles. The bike(s) would still start and run but the performance was like using 1/2 throttle, with the m.p.g. down considerably and the plug looking like yours.
To cover all bases and get the bike running lime new we would do a full service; changing all fluids except the coolant, new plug, clean air filter and set the valve lash to the wide side of the range.
As the valve stem stretches the valve doesn't close fully causing lower compression on an engine engineered with low compression to begin with.
When we took the bike out for the next long run we also added fuel injector cleaner to the tank, we did this knowing most of the treated gas would be used that day and to refill the tank at the end of the day to dilute any remain cleaner as some of that stuff is hard on the rubber lines in the fuel system.
I suggest you do this work and most dealer parts changers have no clue as how to do this work correctly. Its not difficult just tedious and you need to be exact with the final setting. We'll help you if needed.
 

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Hey, so first off, my 2012 grizzly 700 SE is idleing pretty high. .........
Only mods I've done are slug kit for wet clutch.......................

Thanks!
Andrew
What make you think it is idling high? Just the sound? or hard shifting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I bet you have multiple small issues/problems to deal with all adding up to poor performance, these are low compression engines so small adjustments can be needed.
Your bike has enough miles/km's recorded to need the valve lash adjusted, Yamaha valves are known to stretch and every bike I've checked needed this adjustment done by 1000 miles. The bike(s) would still start and run but the performance was like using 1/2 throttle, with the m.p.g. down considerably and the plug looking like yours.
To cover all bases and get the bike running lime new we would do a full service; changing all fluids except the coolant, new plug, clean air filter and set the valve lash to the wide side of the range.
As the valve stem stretches the valve doesn't close fully causing lower compression on an engine engineered with low compression to begin with.
When we took the bike out for the next long run we also added fuel injector cleaner to the tank, we did this knowing most of the treated gas would be used that day and to refill the tank at the end of the day to dilute any remain cleaner as some of that stuff is hard on the rubber lines in the fuel system.
I suggest you do this work and most dealer parts changers have no clue as how to do this work correctly. Its not difficult just tedious and you need to be exact with the final setting. We'll help you if needed.
Thanks Jim thats really helpful!!! I will definitely do that. I got almost all the plastics taken off the bike anyways so I'll do a full service like you say. Will work on it this weekend
 

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The lurch is from the shoes in the wet-clutch starting to drag for engagement to turn the primary pulley, which is not right.
It would be helpful if you and all members added signatures, I don't remember your model after several days and 10 posts.
 

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Ya the idle is noticably high and the bike will lurch sometimes when putting it into gear
If hard shifting is the main issue it could be the slugs kicking in the wet clutch at too low of RPM.

If you have already verified that there is no intake leaks between the throttle body and the head.
and seeing you have a 12 you can put thePOD in the diagnostic mode. Once in Diag check D03, D05 and most importantly D54. D54 tests the Idle Speed Control (ISC) valve. It sets the idle at start up.

Also visually look down the throat of the throttle body to see if any crud is blocking the valve open more than it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The lurch is from the shoes in the wet-clutch starting to drag for engagement to turn the primary pulley, which is not right.
It would be helpful if you and all members added signatures, I don't remember your model after several days and 10 posts.
Ya that's a possibility I guess. So I'm into my valves right now. I notice exhaust valves have a little play in them (when I stick the feeler gauge into where it goes..the rocker arm has some up and down play in it, about .2 mm). The intake rocker arm is tight. Should I be concerned about that?
 
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Ya that's a possibility I guess. So I'm into my valves right now. I notice exhaust valves have a little play in them (when I stick the feeler gauge into where it goes..the rocker arm has some up and down play in it, about .2 mm). The intake rocker arm is tight. Should I be concerned about that?
The play/wiggle is the lash required for the valve to fully close at t.d.c. A tight rocker can lad to low compression by a valve not fully closed.
I set the lash gap to the wide side of the range.
Also that play will produce a very slight ticking sound like an exposed fuel injector on a car or truck. Those new to this work with a new Griz don't realize they hear a ticking when the bike is new, they are busy hauling ass then over time the Griz performance slowly drops off over the first 1000 miles without detection until the engine is a hard start or the m.p.g. is down noticeably or the forward bite is weak. Generally all these symptoms cause the rider to wonder with some here asking w.t.f.
That's why I suggest checking the valve lash with a full tune-up when someone has an engine not acting as it did when new. Once you KNOW the engine is in proper time and there is still a problem, say like high idle, you can then look to the fuel delivery system knowing the engine is timed properly and you have fire with a improper a/f mixture.
 

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While valves out of adjust will effect starting (when cold) and performance this will not cause high RPM's
The hard starting will foul the plug.
 
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