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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It seems there is some intrepidation on how to remove and install a new secondary spring, so I will show the easiest way to get that sucker off then back on the secondary. This thread will not deal with removal of the secondary itself since there is a thread that covers this well here:

http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum/mikes-powerhouse/16277-primary-removal.html

So first lets begin with our target:




The spring is already changed here but thats ok, we are going to see exactly how we got there.

We will need some tools for this, namely a 46mm socket



and an impact wrench and a spring compressor for the install of the spring. First I will show you the easiest way to remove the spring that is already on there, then I will show you how to build your own easy to use spring compressor for less than $5 in pieces from Lowes.

Here is how to remove the spring:



An impact will easily get the spring nut right off for you as in this video I made:


Here is an easy way to roughen up the surface of Grizzly secondary clutch sheave surfaces, and remove any grooves if you find any in your secondary which is quite common.

If you have the secondary out and the spring off you may as well take a few minutes time and rough up the surface of the sheaves for better belt bite before putting it back together. Simply push the sheaves apart and work the surface like in the video:



:banana:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Build your ******* "Sprang" Compressor Version 2.0

Now that we have the spring off, we need to install our new spring. To do this we need a spring compressor. We don't like blowing money on stuff we will use maybe 1 time ever so we do not want to waste big bucks on a spring compressor. Also, we need to have the secondary with us so we can rough up the surface of it while we have it off.

I call this the ******* "Sprang" Compressor version 2.0 because the first one I built was spring compressor version 1.0 which was more difficult to build and was totally different and did not work for crap. This one worked flawlessly and was very easy to build. It can be built for less than $5 from pieces that are on the shelf at Lowes.

Cruise over to Lowes and collect up these parts:



What we have in the picture above are two 1/2" nuts, two 1/2" washers, two 1/2" fender washers, one piece of 1/2" all thread one foot long, one 2" PVC adapter and one 2" PVC plug.

The washers are like 12 cents each the nuts are 19 cents each the one foot piece of all thread is like $1 and the two PVC pieces are barely over $1 each. If you already have 1/2" all thread you can save that but the one foot piece is at Lowes and is already cleanly threaded and easy to use.

The hardest parts to find are the two PVC pieces, because there are apparently 6 million different ones at Lowes and it took me a LOOOOOOOONNNNG time to figure out which ones would work most efficiently. So here are pictures of the exact two pieces you need:



and

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Building the ******* "Sprang" Compressor version 2.0

So first lets work with the plug piece:



What we want to do is drill a 1/2" hole right through the top of it in the middle:



The plug piece is now ready for our use, lets move on to modifying the adapter piece. What we want to do is cut out two sections of the adapter. I used a dremel and a cutoff wheel for this and then used a carbide bit to smooth the edges because fingers will be involved later but you can use whatever tools you have at your disposal to achieve the final result:

dremel cut off wheel:



dremel carbide bit:



Cut out two sections of the adapter opposite each other like this, use the reinforcing edges as guides, follow along the guides and cut to their depth:





That's it the adapter piece is now ready for our use! Lets move on to how to use the "sprang" compressor to install our new secondary spring!

:gcrules:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Using the "Sprang" compressor to install the new spring

So now lets take our ******* "Sprang" Compressor version 2.0 and use it to install our new secondary spring.

Simply press the plug piece into the adapter piece and then run the all thread through the hole in top of the plug. Guide the all thread through the 46mm nut you removed earlier and then through the spring seat passing it down through the secondary and out the other side. On each end you then put on the fender washers to distribute the load, then the washers, then the nuts. I used a pair of vice grips on the bottom to hold the nut so that when it turned a little it would automatically bind up against the secondary and hold it firmly, then used a box end wrench on the other nut to begin to compress the spring like this:







Now simply keep turning the wrench and the spring will easily be compressed, compress it all the way down until the spring seat is firmly against its stop. The seat will only go so far, do not use a lot of force, the seat will hit a shoulder and the threads will stick out like this:



Now you simply reach in there with a couple of fingers and finger tighten the nut down:



Once you have finger tightened the nut, remove the spring compressor and then take the impact wrench and tighten the nut down.

All done!

:getrdone:
 

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Already did mine, but that's some serious thinkerizin' there!!!! Good job, good pics!!:gcrules::rocker:
 

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Awesome write up, you get the ******* tech award of the year in my book. I wish I had seen this a year ago before I did mine. I spent $90 on an EPI spring compressor. But I removed the spring the same way. Good job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks guys, hopefully this will help out someone out there who is hesitant to do this job, it is actually pretty simple to do and there is no reason to fear doing this job. It is especially easy when you already know what you need to do and how to do it.

I am adding another video to the first post that shows a simple way to rough up the secondary sheave surfaces and remove and grooves in them while the spring is off.

:getrdone:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Very good post, my friend!
Feel free to make more how-to posts because your pics are excellent and your steps/directions are easy to follow. Thanks!
I will be doing one on how to replace the wet clutch soon, it will have all the steps you need and the parts and tools needed. There are a couple of things that can trip you up on the wet clutch as you will find out when I do that one. I have one more part that is supposed to be in tomorrow and I will complete the wet clutch job then a how to will follow as I am sure there are more than a few Grizzlies out there with burned up wet clutches, especially among the mud and big tire crowd.

Here is a teaser pic of what a thoroughly roasted toasted wet clutch looks like, you can see the new one in the background:



When the how to on the wet clutch is complete then everyone will see how to get in there and what to replace and how to take it apart and how to replace it without making mistakes.

:lala:
 

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Look forward to seeing your work! Only one minor complaint though (I know... there's always one guy in the crowd that's gonna b!%ch about something) The page loads incredibly slow because of the pic size... maybe shrink the pics?
Like I said... it's a minor complaint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Look forward to seeing your work! Only one minor complaint though (I know... there's always one guy in the crowd that's gonna b!%ch about something) The page loads incredibly slow because of the pic size... maybe shrink the pics?
Like I said... it's a minor complaint.
Yes I was already wondering about that, I have a ridiculous fast internet connection but a lot of people do not and these 10 megapixel pictures will squash their lines.

I will resize them and edit the posts with smaller ones, but it will have to be tomorrow as it is late here and I am about to go to sleep.

Thank you for the suggestion.

--- job complete, pictures resized and uploaded to server ---

:happy:
 

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I would be careful removing the big nut that way as it might rip the end threads off. Make sure you spin the nut off fast so that won`t happen.

You could just loosen the nut a little install the sprang compressor and then take the nut off the rest of the way.

Thanks for giving me permission to us your post.
 

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It's nice to get an education BEFORE taking the exam! Thanks for your effort.
 

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Sweet write up, I will be making one of those spring compressors
 

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Has anyone tried one of those spring compressor for door hing springs on there secondary spring?
 

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Definaetly will be makin me one of dem sprang compressors right thar. Prollly looking at a purple or gold spring for my 28's after i get my clutch machined.
 

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anyone know the torque for the nut on the secondary of a 700 griz
Primary - 100ft lbs
Secondary - 72ft lbs
Nut over secondary spring - 65 ft lbs
 

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Primary - 100ft lbs
Secondary - 72ft lbs
Nut over secondary spring - 65 ft lbs
Hey guys, are all of these nuts "right hand" thread? In the video it looks like the impact is spinning to the right to remove the secondary spring nut? That would make it a "left" hand thread. Which is it?
 

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Hey guys, are all of these nuts "right hand" thread? In the video it looks like the impact is spinning to the right to remove the secondary spring nut? That would make it a "left" hand thread. Which is it?
I dont remember mine turning that direction to loosen.
I think the only one that turns opposite is the wet clutch.
 
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