Shifting Hi-Lo-Rev

I would say start by dissecting it. remove the shifter from the transmission and see if its tight there and slowly check each component until you find the stiff section.

Welcome from Colorado.
Cables have rubber end covers to keep dirt out and your's be torn or have come off.
Rough cables fray and bind, your's may need to be replaced if lubricating doesn't work.

Thx guys... Cable ends still have the rubber boot intact, no tears or rips that I can see. Is it just a push back the rubber boot to lubricate the cable and reposition once done?
I will disconnect the cable at the transmission end and see what that tells me. Appreciate the suggestions.

Actually this is for all shifting, if it seems to be shifting a bit hard, then while sitting on the machine rock the atv a little forward and back with your body weight while trying to move the shifter, this helps whenever it feels like the shifter doesn't want to engage.

It's been a long time since I replaced one of these cables or even worked on an old school Big Bear. Those are great bikes.
I have seen the cable seize and the shifter drum.
First you need to confirm which one. Disconnect the cable from the transmission lever and see if it's still stiff. If so, disconnect the cable from the shifter mechanism. If still stiff, lubricate the mechanism.
If the stiffness is gone with the cable disconnected, your better to replace the cable. The rarely ever loosen up. And if they do, it's temporary at best.

Good luck finding them. I'm working on an 89 moto4 and some of the shifting cables are NLA but pop up from time to time on ebay at inflated prices.

Slag said:

Good luck finding them. I'm working on an 89 moto4 and some of the shifting cables are NLA but pop up from time to time on ebay at inflated prices.

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Yup.
2 months ago we repaired a 1990 Moto4 350 shifter. The shifter was cable broke (the 3rd in its lifetime). So we welded a wrench onto the lever on the transmission, and cured it permanently. He just reaches down by his right foot to shift ranges/reverse instead of the left side of the engine.

If you can figure out the length and what type of ends are on the cable. There place to get custom cables made like these guys midwestcontrol
I bought from them before.

Your going to need something better than WD40.
Soak it with Aerokroil, PB Blaster or Red Rust Check.
I would also use heat if you can. This will help break the bond of rust. Then clean it, lube it and keep operating it until it frees up.

Well I almost have everything back together again, I just need to reseat the lever on the splines of the shaft. I couldnt get anything to work to budge the mechanism, so I resorted to a 2 arm puller and popped the shaft out. I wire wheel everything and reassembled with some anti-seize and packed the back side with white grease.

Cheers guys, Thanks again.