Any chance the sheave or belt got handled with dirty hands and got a little grease on it? Maybe the cam plate is hanging up somehow? Seems weird to me that it would happen that far after initial acceleration. Maybe quick call go Hunterworks would be a good idea?
To much shim.. Belt slip.
I am running a Hunterworks sheave and 16gram slick weights and a purple secondary in my 2016 grizzly 700. I had the 0.5mm included shim installed but was looking for more low end. I removed the 0.5mm and installed a 1mm shim. I am at 2.9:1 ratio and I have splines showing
Problem is.
I am getting some clutch slipping. I do not know if it’s Belt slip or wet clutch slip.
I have wet clutch slugs installed and am running Amsoil synthetic 10/40 atv/utv oil that says it’s good for clutches. I only have 2000 miles on my machine. So I can’t see it being the wet clutch.
100 miles back, I had my clutches apart and all looked like new. Belt looked like new.
I have 26 inch bighorn tires
The slipping is not on the very bottom end initial takeoff, it’s very responsive and crisp on light throttle.... It only slips when I mash the throttle and hold it, at about 2 or 3 seconds in and around 10 mph it starts to rev up too much for the speed I’m going.
Around 30-40 mph the clutch seems to lock back up and acceleration seems normal again.
The problem is much worse in high range..
I have a feeling it’s too much shim and my belt it riding on the roller.
I didn’t do any real “mash the throttle” testing with 0.5mm shim so I don’t know for sure the 1.0mm caused it.
I suppose I’ll have to take it apart to check things, but was hoping for some expertise
any idea what my problem is ?
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Problem is.
I am getting some clutch slipping. I do not know if it’s Belt slip or wet clutch slip.
I have wet clutch slugs installed and am running Amsoil synthetic 10/40 atv/utv oil that says it’s good for clutches. I only have 2000 miles on my machine. So I can’t see it being the wet clutch.
100 miles back, I had my clutches apart and all looked like new. Belt looked like new.
I have 26 inch bighorn tires
The slipping is not on the very bottom end initial takeoff, it’s very responsive and crisp on light throttle.... It only slips when I mash the throttle and hold it, at about 2 or 3 seconds in and around 10 mph it starts to rev up too much for the speed I’m going.
Around 30-40 mph the clutch seems to lock back up and acceleration seems normal again.
The problem is much worse in high range..
I have a feeling it’s too much shim and my belt it riding on the roller.
I didn’t do any real “mash the throttle” testing with 0.5mm shim so I don’t know for sure the 1.0mm caused it.
I suppose I’ll have to take it apart to check things, but was hoping for some expertise
any idea what my problem is ?
Sent from IPhone7 ;p
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1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Doesn't sound like slip to me more like the shift out is hanging.
I'd check those "slick weights" for jamming in the channels.
If the belt is bottoming on the collar the edge of the belt will be chewed from riding the seal hump.
Also check that the secondary is moving as it should.
I'd check those "slick weights" for jamming in the channels.
If the belt is bottoming on the collar the edge of the belt will be chewed from riding the seal hump.
Also check that the secondary is moving as it should.
X2
I agree with Reogem, check your fancy weights.
Also when I first baught my pre owned bike and accumulated my first 300 kms of riding, I started experiencing belt slippage at 30 mph and over. Turns out the wet clutch gasket had been leaking for sometime and completely covered the belt and sheave with with oil. Amazingly I couldn't detected ANY slippage under 30 mph.
I agree with Reogem, check your fancy weights.
Also when I first baught my pre owned bike and accumulated my first 300 kms of riding, I started experiencing belt slippage at 30 mph and over. Turns out the wet clutch gasket had been leaking for sometime and completely covered the belt and sheave with with oil. Amazingly I couldn't detected ANY slippage under 30 mph.
You could be on to something.
When I removed my 18 gram weights, one of them was stuck.
Not stuck like welded, but I did need a screwdriver to give it a little nudge because I couldn’t pull it with my fingers.
Inspected everything. Couldn’t see anything normal no burrs or bumps. Nothing I could feel with my finger. I chalked it to being something mis-formed on the 18 gram weight and dropped the 16’s in without much thought. The new 16’s dropped easily into the bottom of the weight channels where 18s came out of with that clink sound weights make when dropped it. It all seemed normal.
I never even considered weight hang for the rev problem. It would make perfect sense. What I am experiencing is high rev when I mash the throttle, but not long after I actually get very pronounced shift symptom just like being dropped into overdrive. The RPMs drop low very quickly. The revving would be worse with 16’s than 18’s as well, because the total weight difference of 8 16’s over 18’s is 16 grams... even with one stuck weight, there’s a 14 gram difference. This would cause more rev.
Well.... guess I’m taking the clutch apart Again.
One other thing.. the Seal Hump issue @reogem mentioned. I thought Hunterworks machined this off. My sheave was smooth right to the bottom with no lip.
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When I removed my 18 gram weights, one of them was stuck.
Not stuck like welded, but I did need a screwdriver to give it a little nudge because I couldn’t pull it with my fingers.
Inspected everything. Couldn’t see anything normal no burrs or bumps. Nothing I could feel with my finger. I chalked it to being something mis-formed on the 18 gram weight and dropped the 16’s in without much thought. The new 16’s dropped easily into the bottom of the weight channels where 18s came out of with that clink sound weights make when dropped it. It all seemed normal.
I never even considered weight hang for the rev problem. It would make perfect sense. What I am experiencing is high rev when I mash the throttle, but not long after I actually get very pronounced shift symptom just like being dropped into overdrive. The RPMs drop low very quickly. The revving would be worse with 16’s than 18’s as well, because the total weight difference of 8 16’s over 18’s is 16 grams... even with one stuck weight, there’s a 14 gram difference. This would cause more rev.
Well.... guess I’m taking the clutch apart Again.
One other thing.. the Seal Hump issue @reogem mentioned. I thought Hunterworks machined this off. My sheave was smooth right to the bottom with no lip.
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Didn't realize that Hunterworks started removing the seal hump from the Grizzly sheaves. He use to remove it on the Rhino sheaves but not the Griz.
Yeah, it’s his new machining, smooth right to the bottom with no ridge.
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On a different tack, I've got a Suzuki DR 650 that hates full synthetic oil in winter,(slips similar to yours) semi-syn., no prob's, maybe the combination of lowering the gearing, cold conditions & 10/40 full syn oil may not play nicely together & is letting the clutch slip, as more torque from the motor is used, the clutch spins up, heats up & starts to stick, it takes around 30-40 minutes for an engine to come up to operating temperature & get the oils hot. How long have you been using the full syn. oil?
I’ve been running it Since about last April. So no real cold tests on it other then just recently. It was about -10c (14 f) which is kinda cold. It was in my mind but I could replicate the symptoms even after 30 mins of riding.
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That sounds covered then, how 'bout this(swag)idea, machining the sheave does the same as adding washers but at a greater level, it moves the sheaves apart to lower gearing, placing washers with the m/c sheave opens it further & might allow it to open or close faster than the secondary can compensate for giving you a loose slipping belt until the secondary catches up & with all the do-dar's installed they wouldn't be helping, I guess removing the 1mm washer is a start as it seems it was the last thing installed before the problem started & go from there. Hmmm is it possible for the primary sheave to open far enough for the belt to touch the spacer between the sheaves with the m/c & washers???
Well I think the “stuck weight” diagnoses was right on the money. Although I have not had a chance to take it apart yet, I did get 2 separate snow storms to plow.
Tonight I plowed the street. It was about 2” of wet snow and it was kind of raining so it was super heavy and sticky,
I dropped the plow( angled first notch) put the machine in low and started pushing after a little ways, and seeing as the snow wasn’t flying over the plow in my face, I picked up the speed. I pushed it pretty hard. From 15-30mph and not one sign of slipping the entire 1/2mile of my street length.
So, I can prettu saftly assume the revving off the line is over rev, and not slipping.
I’m kinda hoping it will wear in a bit and I won’t have to take it apart.
With my kids hockey schedule, I don’t get much maintenance time lately
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Tonight I plowed the street. It was about 2” of wet snow and it was kind of raining so it was super heavy and sticky,
I dropped the plow( angled first notch) put the machine in low and started pushing after a little ways, and seeing as the snow wasn’t flying over the plow in my face, I picked up the speed. I pushed it pretty hard. From 15-30mph and not one sign of slipping the entire 1/2mile of my street length.
So, I can prettu saftly assume the revving off the line is over rev, and not slipping.
I’m kinda hoping it will wear in a bit and I won’t have to take it apart.
With my kids hockey schedule, I don’t get much maintenance time lately
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Madkawi750..Do you have a new camplate? Might check the wear pattern in it.
Do you feel the secondary is working smoothly? What spring are you running? The spring maybe too much for those weights. I believe you just install 16's?
You should consider emailing Todd about the problem of those weights jamming up. Either the channel machining is wrong or those weights are manufactured out of spec. He is good about answering emails.
Do you feel the secondary is working smoothly? What spring are you running? The spring maybe too much for those weights. I believe you just install 16's?
You should consider emailing Todd about the problem of those weights jamming up. Either the channel machining is wrong or those weights are manufactured out of spec. He is good about answering emails.
Madkawi750..Do you have a new camplate? Might check the wear pattern in it.
Do you feel the secondary is working smoothly? What spring are you running? The spring maybe too much for those weights. I believe you just install 16's?
You should consider emailing Todd about the problem of those weights jamming up. Either the channel machining is wrong or those weights are manufactured out of spec. He is good about answering emails.
Stock Cam plate.
I emailed Todd but he did not get back to me. Even in the past, the responses are very short and sweet and sort of, "You must have done something wrong" kind of responses. I know it would be best to call. but its hard to do while i'm at work and I forget in the evening until its too late.. Bad memory. ha
Last time I had it apart I ran it with the cover off to check movement. It all seems to operate smoothly and normally. I have a Dalton Metallic red secondary spring.. Exact same specs as the EPI purple.
You can actually see that the thicker weight has some sort of machining lines in it.
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@Madkawi750, aren't those special weights kind of pricey? I'm not very impressed with the quality control of an outfit that can't machine a set simple metal rods all the same size for heavens sake!
They are the “special” weights. They are not metal though. Or if they are metal, they’re something I’ve never seen before. They are very light feeling. I think the actual mass comes from the ball bearing in the middle. I’m not sure about the machining process. I have read that it’s very difficult to machine them, which you would think difficulty would mean more time spent and probably better quality control. But I am guessing that the retailer does not do the actual machining,And they actually just passed through his shop and on to the customer. I have not spoken to the retailer yet. He may be very nice and offer me a new set free of charge.
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I measured the set of 16 g weights, they are all perfectly machined.
However I removed everything. And went completely back to stock +1.5 mm of Shim.
The machine works exactly the way it used to. No slipping lots of go, and the Rev limiter that hits at 60 mph. I am fully convinced that the slick coding that is sprayed onto the sheave is the problem.
The entire Sheave and weights are covered in a white coloured dust the dust is very slippery feeling like dry graphite grease. I suspect this dry lube is getting onto the belt. I washed my belt in hot soapy water and scoured it with a pad. I also scuffed both primary and secondary with scotchbrite.
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However I removed everything. And went completely back to stock +1.5 mm of Shim.
The machine works exactly the way it used to. No slipping lots of go, and the Rev limiter that hits at 60 mph. I am fully convinced that the slick coding that is sprayed onto the sheave is the problem.
The entire Sheave and weights are covered in a white coloured dust the dust is very slippery feeling like dry graphite grease. I suspect this dry lube is getting onto the belt. I washed my belt in hot soapy water and scoured it with a pad. I also scuffed both primary and secondary with scotchbrite.
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Interesting! Keep us updated......I measured the set of 16 g weights, they are all perfectly machined.
However I removed everything. And went completely back to stock +1.5 mm of Shim.
The machine works exactly the way it used to. No slipping lots of go, and the Rev limiter that hits at 60 mph. I am fully convinced that the slick coding that is sprayed onto the sheave is the problem.
The entire Sheave and weights are covered in a white coloured dust the dust is very slippery feeling like dry graphite grease. I suspect this dry lube is getting onto the belt. I washed my belt in hot soapy water and scoured it with a pad. I also scuffed both primary and secondary with scotchbrite.
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1 - 20 of 46 Posts
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