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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm probably not the first person who's had this happen (am I?). The winch pulling up on the plow caused it. I'm going to pull the "bumper" and either replace the assembly or have it welded, but does anyone have suggestions on how to reinforce it so it doesn't happen again?

I'm also trying to determine how, without bending it or wearing it badly, I might have the strap go up and over the bar above the winch rather than pulling directly up/in on the plow.

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#1, get an electric ram for plow lifting and use the winch for getting unstuck. #2, if you don't like #1, hook a snatch block to the plow frame with the hook going up to the front rack, it will divert some of the stress.
 

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That is rather odd, a good welder can likely fix and reinforce. In the future consider pulling with a small pulley off the front rack ( I use a piece of rebar on the front rack for rigidity ) and pulling the plow up. I have been plowing that way for 25 years with no failures, the physics of pulling "at" the winch is a lot of shear force.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, guys. I've considered a pulley/snatch block on the plow as @Patroller mentioned. That would halve the force (although at the same less-than-optimal angle. Not sure how a pulley off the rack's top rail would work, but will need to look at that, too. In either case, I don't think there is such a thing as a snatch block that will accommodate a 2" or even 1" strap, is there? I don't want to wear my synthetic rope by running it across the fairlead in the same place all winter. I guess I could change out to the steel cable and roller fairlead at the start of the season and back to the aluminum fairlead and synthetic rope at the end instead of the strap I've been using. What's two more nuts/bolts, right?
 

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As winter approaches, that will be a good time to do a search on this website, several examples can be found. Some use nylon seat belts, etc...I use the steel cable that came w the winch, Pulley sits on top of plow plate then to front rack which is reinforced as mentioned, a slick operation.
first order is to get the winch plate fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I use half of a 20' tow strap. It worked great for the past 9 winters before finally breaking at the wear point. The other half is prepped and ready to go, but I may now need to rethink the strategy.
 

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Never seen that.
How is the mounting plate fastened? What pound winch and mounting plate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The winch is a MotoAlliance Viper Max 300-lb. unit. I recall when I installed it there was not room for the 1/4" thick mounting plate and it didn't appear to be necessary, so I didn't install it. Looking at it briefly, I don't think it would have averted this, as it would have simply been mounted to the same surface that's torn, but I guess it might have transferred some of that load back to the rear mounting points. I'll have to look at it more closely as I take things apart.
 

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The plate does transfer most of the force to the main frame not the brush guard. I have had to modify all the included winch plates I have installed. I figured me just welding some tabs and a backer plate to fit the machine and winch out weighted finding the correct plates is a PITA and the cost.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I disassembled things this evening, and I did have the full plate installed. Both tabs on both sides are ripped away from the bumper tube. I'm going to call a local welder this week, and see if he can repair and reinforce. As for installing a plate across them, I don't think that would help much, and I don't have any room to play with above the tabs (the winch is a very tight fit.), and anything below will interfere with the skid plate mounting up. Instead, I was looking at ways to reinforce the rack and how to secure the cable hook for the future so I can use a pulley on the plow.. A piece of 1" or 1.5" angle secured between the rack mounting points should do the trick. I might have a ring welded to it while having the bumper frame fixed.

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