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Hey guys, got this grizzly 450 and the prior owner cut these bolts off, he said they wouldn`t come out, anyway didnt really care about his story cause i got him down $200 for it. I want to get these out so i can put a trailer hitch back in it. Whats the best method to extract them?
 

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Hey guys, got this grizzly 450 and the prior owner cut these bolts off, he said they wouldn`t come out, anyway didnt really care about his story cause i got him down $200 for it. I want to get these out so i can put a trailer hitch back in it. Whats the best method to extract them?
There are purpose made extractors, and I've even used left-handed drill bits before. But in this case, I wouldn't bother with it. Cause a 2" receiver is way better than the stock hitch. One like this should bolt on without needing to put the stock hitch back on: https://www.amazon.com/Kolpin-Universal-IRS-Receiver-Hitch/dp/B000QFVJQS
 

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I had my old 660 bolts snap off, I tried a few techniques to get them backed out including drilling and reserve taps but no luck, finally did some spot welding but that too loosened. Don't fool with it, the trailer tongue just sits too low and pushes shear forces against it, too low to begin with.


I bought from Koplin a receiver hitch that is the cats meow, when I sold the 660 I put on my 2017 Griz. Works great and a better height for a trailer. Sold on the product if you are doing much trailering and moving things around property.
 

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Yup! Get a bolt on. :icon_ goofy:

Maybe not this exact one but what will fit your ride.
 

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+1 on a bolt-on 2" receiver, but be careful that the bolt-on does not rely on your stock hitch to be intact for mounting.
Take a close look at Grumpy's pic, the stock hitch is used for support.
The Kolpin one linked above doesn't use the stock hitch, but I have had trouble with hitches that wrap a U-bolt around the frame bars. Flattened out the frame bars a little trying to get it tight enough to hold the hitch in place, it kept shifting around.
This hitch works well for me, but it also uses those two bolt holes at the bottom. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGO9I0

If this were my rig, I would get those bolts out.
I'd start by spraying penetrating oil (WD-40, liquid wrench, etc.) on it and leaving it to sit overnight.
Then hit it with a 1/8" drill bit and use a center punch and be very careful to get it dead center. Drill a 1/8" hole straight through each bolt.
Then step up one size drill bit and do it again. And again.
I highly recommend reverse drill bits. Using those, many broken bolts have come loose while I was drilling, before I even got to the screw extractor part.
Go slow and be careful. If you snap off a drill bit or screw extractor in there, you're SOL.

If the bolts come out, great! If not, and you drill them all the way out and the threads too, you can bolt all the way through.
 

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Get a nut close to the bolt size, set on top of the bolt plug weld the nut (through the whole) to the bolt as soon as your done welding try to loosen the nut. The heat from weld should release any Loctite that may have been used and free the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So Im going to get that universal trailer hitch receiver, but do i need to drill in to remove the current bolts that are broken still?? And do i need to drill holes for this hitch to work
 

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Get a nut close to the bolt size, set on top of the bolt plug weld the nut (through the whole) to the bolt as soon as your done welding try to loosen the nut. The heat from weld should release any Loctite that may have been used and free the bolt.

The heat from the weld will also expand the bolt and possibly make it harder to get out . If you pour some water on the nut you welded on it should cool the bolt causing it to contract and not the surrounding metal , usually works.
 

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Deninity a 2" receiver but everything I'm seeing for your machine (in a quick eBay search) , you'll have to deal with those bolts.
 

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These bolts breaking is a common thing on the Grizzly. It's a stupidly weak design. I have removed these broken bolts several times.
The best and easiest way I found is to weld a nut unto the bolt shank. It has worked everytime for me. Be careful not to weld the bolt shank to the frame, and you'll be good to go.
 

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These bolts breaking is a common thing on the Grizzly. It's a stupidly weak design. I have removed these broken bolts several times.
The best and easiest way I found is to weld a nut unto the bolt shank. It has worked everytime for me. Be careful not to weld the bolt shank to the frame, and you'll be good to go.
I JUST ENED UP DRILLING MINE STRAIGHT THROUGH AND PUT IN LONG BOLTS. couldn't GET MINE OUT BY WELDING A NUT TO BROKEN SHANK


IF YOU DO GET THEM REMOVED MAKE SURE YOU NEVER SEIZE THE THREADS SO WONT BE AN ISSUE NEXT TIME
 

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It doesn't look very "universal" to me, as the bottom of it clamps onto a 1 1/4" received that your ATV doesn't have, for support.

Here's the fitment list. I see Rhinos in there but no Grizzlies.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1MlGkKPgAS.pdf
I think for the Grizz's, you just set aside the 1-1/4" receiver adapter. Going off of memory from other places I've seen the same thing listed. May have already been said here too.

+1 on a bolt-on 2" receiver, but be careful that the bolt-on does not rely on your stock hitch to be intact for mounting.
Take a close look at Grumpy's pic, the stock hitch is used for support.
The Kolpin one linked above doesn't use the stock hitch, but I have had trouble with hitches that wrap a U-bolt around the frame bars. Flattened out the frame bars a little trying to get it tight enough to hold the hitch in place, it kept shifting around.
This hitch works well for me, but it also uses those two bolt holes at the bottom. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGO9I0

If this were my rig, I would get those bolts out.
I'd start by spraying penetrating oil (WD-40, liquid wrench, etc.) on it and leaving it to sit overnight.
Then hit it with a 1/8" drill bit and use a center punch and be very careful to get it dead center. Drill a 1/8" hole straight through each bolt.
Then step up one size drill bit and do it again. And again.
I highly recommend reverse drill bits. Using those, many broken bolts have come loose while I was drilling, before I even got to the screw extractor part.
Go slow and be careful. If you snap off a drill bit or screw extractor in there, you're SOL.

If the bolts come out, great! If not, and you drill them all the way out and the threads too, you can bolt all the way through.
That's a good point about flattening the frame from tightening the u-bolts. I see the Yamaha branded one has nice wide clamps to prevent that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C575KQ/

Seems like maybe these would work if a guy were to do the homemade route though, in place of plain u-bolts. Just match the diameter to the tubing: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/nickson-4449/exhaust-parts-16469/exhaust-clamps-17380/muffler-clamp/511188/4537880 I used something similar on my plow angle mechanism and it's held up great.
 
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Wow, I just messed with this very same problem today...my totals were:
5 broken bits in 3 sizes
2 busted extractors
3 trips to Lowes
4 hours of my time
1 bloody knuckle
3-400 cuss words
1 metal shaving under my thumbnail that accounted for about 100 of the cuss words. (BTW I would've told you what happened to the Lindbergh baby if this was done to me on purpose as torture - crap that hurt).

I finally ended up with two thread-less holes i bolted the #$^%& hitch to...

Turned off the shop lights, walked in the house watched Cubs game. Mic drop
 
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