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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a independent repair shop tell me valves should be adjusted every oil change ? This would be on a 2016 708 Griz . Seems like over kill to me . He said he has seen enough guys try to adjust them and machine ends up not starting because they were to tight . Risk damaging the valves and then it gets real expensive he said . Any thoughts ?
 

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The recommended schedule in the owners manual is a good place to start.
I have adjusted valves on several different machines, mine and several buddys, and all needed the valves adjusted at or before 1000 miles. Then they stay in spec when checked again later.
The one thing I found needed for this work is an angled (90*) feeler gauge blade to make sure the blade is flat when measuring the lash. A straight blade won't fit properly and can produce a mistake, I know from the school of hard knocks. It sucks to think everything is good to go, then after putting everything back together learn the bike will not run properly and in my case was worse than before I started the project.
Also, 'IF' you let a shop do this work use a grease pencil and mark the rocker-arm cover joints. This will let you know when you pick up the bike if the guy even removed the covers. Over the last several years other members have caught the shop charging for the work without doing the work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The recommended schedule in the owners manual is a good place to start.
I have adjusted valves on several different machines, mine and several buddys, and all needed the valves adjusted at or before 1000 miles. Then they stay in spec when checked again later.
The one thing I found needed for this work is an angled (90*) feeler gauge blade to make sure the blade is flat when measuring the lash. A straight blade won't fit properly a can produce a mistake, I know from the school of hard knocks. It sucks to think everything is good to go, then after putting everything back together learn the bike will not run properly and in my case was worse than before I started the project.
Also, 'IF' you let a shop do this work use a grease pencil and make the rocker-arm cover joints. This will let you know when you pick up the bike if the guy even removed the covers. Over the last several years other members have caught the shop charging for the work without doing the work.
Approaching a 1000 miles now , spent more time running miles breaking it in because of the 3 top end rebuilds . Figure i will call dealer to ask if valves were adjusted at last top end redo . It seems to be running okay now at least the smoking /oil consumption has been fixed . Fingers crossed . It seems there is some noise when running , don't no if it normal engine sounds ? It still stumbles a bit when cold starting once warm no issues . New fuel pump , new starter and new battery . Wondering how much time involved to adjust valves , this gut mentioned 2 hours at 75 an hour . Sound right ?
 

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The valves had to be adjusted with the new top end work or the engine would not run so....
As for time required, I never put the clock to the work time. Its more or a p.i.t.a. to get to the valves and the crank shaft than to do the adjusting, then you have to put everything back on the machine. I generally got it done in 3 or 4 hours not hurrying.
When I say get to the valves I mean removing everything covering the engine head. I do this because its critical to be able to get in there for precise feel and visibility, or as best as can be had....and I have big hands which doesn't help either. Also I haven't done a 708 but its got to be just as precisely critical as the 686, 660 and 550 top end work.
Off the top of my head, if he says its a two hour job, I think he might be cutting corners somewhere. But who knows, he might be that good.
 
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Sounds to me like a mechanic trying to drum up some business. The 708 is a DOHC engine. The valves are shimmed rather than with a screw-type of adjustment as on the 686 SOHC engines. Perhaps @reogem can chime in on his experience. His machines have/had 14,000+ miles on them. My understanding of the DOHC is that they require less frequent adjustment. I'm not sure I would solicit any additional advice that mechanic...
 

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Had a independent repair shop tell me valves should be adjusted every oil change ? This would be on a 2016 708 Griz . Seems like over kill to me . He said he has seen enough guys try to adjust them and machine ends up not starting because they were to tight . Risk damaging the valves and then it gets real expensive he said . Any thoughts ?
I've never adjusted the valves on my 2011 700 Grizzly with 10,000+ miles on it since new when I bought it. No issues what so ever. Used only Yamalube full synthetic 0-40 oil since break in.
If it isn't broke don't fix it.
 
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I've never adjusted the valves on my 2011 700 Grizzly with 10,000+ miles on it since new when I bought it. No issues what so ever. Used only Yamalube full synthetic 0-40 oil since break in.


I wouldn’t be a bit surprised if my 400EX had 15-18K miles on it. The valves have been adjusted once. It was easy to tell when it was time because it started taking a few more seconds to fire up.
 

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Had a independent repair shop tell me valves should be adjusted every oil change ? This would be on a 2016 708 Griz . Seems like over kill to me . He said he has seen enough guys try to adjust them and machine ends up not starting because they were to tight . Risk damaging the valves and then it gets real expensive he said . Any thoughts ?
Late last winter adjust my Queens 708 valves for the first time at 12k miles. These engines have 2 cams with shims under buckets. Very complicated to adjust unless you buy a complete set of shims and there are hundreds of them . My Yamaha dealer didn't have the sizes I needed. The machine set torn down for 2 weeks waiting for them.
To make the matters worse you must remove the rag plugging the opening for the timing chain. When setting the cams in I dropped a cam clip down in to the crankcase. Had to open up the left side of the case to retrieve it. Had a case gasket for a 686 they don't fit. Didn't have a water pump gasket. Lost the fresh oil change.
I would charge someone 2-3 kegs of Lager to adjust the 708 valves.
 

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Late last winter adjust my Queens 708 valves for the first time at 12k miles. These engines have 2 cams with shims under buckets. Very complicated to adjust unless you buy a complete set of shims and there are hundreds of them . My Yamaha dealer didn't have the sizes I needed. The machine set torn down for 2 weeks waiting for them.
To make the matters worse you must remove the rag plugging the opening for the timing chain. (( When setting the cams in I dropped a cam clip down in to the crankcase. Had to open up the left side of the case to retrieve it.)) Had a case gasket for a 686 they don't fit. Didn't have a water pump gasket. Lost the fresh oil change.
I would charge someone 2-3 kegs of Lager to adjust the 708 valves.
X2. I dropped the cam bearing C-clip down in the engine as well and had to pull the left side off. Found it stuck to the backside of the flywheel. Its a piss poor design as the C-clip groove in the valve cover is big and the C-clip kinda snaps over and onto the bearing, So when you lift the cover off (You can't lift it up high enough to clear and have to move it to the side) and bump the clip it pops off and falls into the crankcase. Before I button'ed the side up. I put the top semi back together to try something. If you put a bigger magnet over the cam cover at the bearings/C-clip location the C-clip will stay wear the magnet is. That was a lesson learned for next time. If you look in the mirror, On the backside of the flywheel you can see where I found the C-clip.

I bought a Hotcam valve shim kit. They don't have the same thickness range and the Yamaha ones but if not for the C-clip problem I could have had it done in 1/2 day without a problem.
 

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I should also say. At 2400 miles I had one intake and one exhaust valve that were getting to low spec of the valve lash. I probably could have went another 2000 miles before it needed shimming. I also checked the 19 Kodiak 450 at 1200 miles. The exhaust was .001" from the loosest setting and the Intake was still at the loosest setting.
 

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@Zrt1200 found my clip laying on the hump about where your shop towel is. I also put the cams back in before I buttoned up the crankcase. I used a little assembly grease to hold them in place.
Only have one 708 in the stable now can't just justify buying a set of shims.

Never found the exhausts out of adjustment on either of my other machines. Always the intakes. My 19 still starts like new even when it's 25°f. The valves on the 19 can wait until next spring.
 
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@Zrt1200 found my clip laying on the hump about where your shop towel is. I also put the cams back in before I buttoned up the crankcase. I used a little assembly grease to hold them in place.
Only have one 708 in the stable now can't just justify buying a set of shims.

Never found the exhausts out of adjustment on either of my other machines. Always the intakes. My 19 still starts like new even when it's 25°f. The valves on the 19 can wait until next spring.
The only reason why I bought the shim set as we have multiple powersport toys that use shims, dirt bikes, sleds, and my Grizzly. Every year I am adjusting valves on something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes talked with dealer who did the rebuilds said at 2500 miles not every oil change . Thanks much guys for the input .
 
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