[eracer]

My 2014 Grizzly 700 has been in storage without a trickle charger on it for 2 years. (I know, I know...)
Yesterday I started it with a battery pack starter, then put the battery on a 2A charge overnight.

This morning I took it off the charger and there was no display. I put the charger back on it and when I turned the key on I saw ER 1. No gear displayed. When I pushed the starter button I got a grinding sound like the starter wasn't engaging. It started right up yesterday...

Google says that's an ECU malfunction.

It seems more likely that the battery just isn't holding a charge.
Lesson learned.

 

[69quadracer]

Try a new battery and go from there, batteries can cause strange problems

 

[dezz]

Sounds like the battery is toast. Even if you now have another problem, trying to diagnose with a bad battery is not going to help any.

 

[RedRocket]

Agree with the others, two years with no charge, I wouldn't trust that battery and it would be getting replaced. Chances are it's not going to hold a charge and as mentioned, it will cause you issues troubleshooting.

 

[Scoundrel]

Sulfation and How to Prevent it - Battery University

When a lead-acid battery is stored for a long time with no maintenance charge, sulfation forms on the plates and the battery is then no longer able to hold a charge and deliver the power. It might read 12V on a meter when you finish charging it, but it will drop off quickly and current will not flow out of it very quickly. If in doubt, charge it overnight again, let it sit two hours, then take the battery to a local battery shop and have then do a load test on it. Then have them show you what a load test on a new battery looks like.

Stick a new battery in there and let 'er rip.

 

[eracer]

Thanks all.

I bought a new battery, and now I have to figure out how to get the old one out and put the new one in.

I googled for 'battery replace 2014 grizzly 700' and also for 'remove front rack 2014 grizzly 700.' There is no help out there, so I'm counting on you guys!

I can't see a way to remove the battery without removing the rack (REALLY, YAMAHA, you couldn't have rotated the battery 90° so it would slip between the rack tubes?!)

It looks like a real PITA to get the rack off. Am I right to think there are six nuts that have to be removed? Two of them are way down in the frame, and it looks like the plastic panels have to be removed to get to them. Two others are shrouded by metal, and I don't even see how to get an open-end wrench in there to loosen them.

Is anyone's google skills better than mine? Can you find a video that clearly shows how to remove the front rack?

Much appreciated.

 

[Scoundrel]

I just looked up the rack and saw how it is attached. It looks the same as the way my 07 was.

The front two bolts are obvious. The two on the outside are easy too, just reach up under the fender. The two that attach the risers to the frame are a little more tricky but I never had to take any plastics off to get to them.

Maybe you could post some pics of the difficulty you are having?

 

[Grizzcrazy]

Good luck! I just have to say, my battery is under the seat on my 660. Hehehe.

 

[Scoundrel]

I just went out and took some pictures of my 2015. Really, this shouldn't take you more than about 5 minutes to get that rack off unless yours is somehow wildly different, but I really doubt it. Check my pictures for locations of bolts to remove. 2nd picture is inside right front wheel well. Same on the left. Right out in the open, easy to get to with a socket.

 

[eracer]

Thanks to all who helped. Sorry I wasted your time. Last night I looked at it again, and had the rack off in under 5 minutes.

Sometimes, when I get mad at an inanimate object, I lose my logical mind. All I really needed to do was step back and look at the problem from all angles (and trust that Yamaha wouldn't have made it stupid hard to remove the rack.)

I'm glad I didn't grab the cutting torch that first day... LOL

Thanks again.

 

[begeberg]

From my experience with bikes, certain battery types should never be allowed to fully discharge as they don't come back after that..... I learned my lesson the hard way on my DRZ.

 

[Scoundrel]

Thanks to all who helped. Sorry I wasted your time. Last night I looked at it again, and had the rack off in under 5 minutes.

Sometimes, when I get mad at an inanimate object, I lose my logical mind. All I really needed to do was step back and look at the problem from all angles (and trust that Yamaha wouldn't have made it stupid hard to remove the rack.)

I'm glad I didn't grab the cutting torch that first day... LOL

Thanks again.

We've all forgotten, in our anxiety/frustration/whatever, to look for the simple solution first. No worries.

 

[eracer]

Final report.
New battery.
Started right up and ran well.

 

[Scoundrel]

Final report.
New battery.
Started right up and ran well.

Thanks for wrapping this up. Too many forum threads end without a posted resolution. This may be helpful for someone else later.

 

[eracer]

Thanks for wrapping this up. Too many forum threads end without a posted resolution. This may be helpful for someone else later.

One last comment. When replacing the front rack, I found that I had to connect the bottom tubes (risers) to the frame first, then the side brackets under the fender, and finally the two furthest to the front. If I started with the front or upper side screws, I couldn't get the bottom tubes to align.

Get the screws started, then tighten all six at the same time.