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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Taking an ATV trip out of state. Are there certain bolts that everyone torques down before a long trip? For example, lug nuts as an obvious one. Any advice on areas I should pay attention to before this trip? thank you
 

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Check the front lower A-arm bolts on the knuckle side. Those have been known to fail even with the cotter pin in.
http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum.../1526-warning-potential-flaw-ball-joints.html


Yep. We’ve lost at least two or three that I can recall on different rides. We’ll carry a spare, but it’s a ROYAL pain to replace on the trail. If you run tracks, all your steering components should be checked/replaced more often, not to mention wheel bearings, too.


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For safety...Everything between the handle bars to the front tires. If it's a moving part check it. EPS? Double check the steer stem connections.
For a hassle free ride everything else.
Don't forget the loose nut behind the wheel!
 
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Yep. We’ve lost at least two or three that I can recall on different rides. We’ll carry a spare, but it’s a ROYAL pain to replace on the trail. If you run tracks, all your steering components should be checked/replaced more often, not to mention wheel bearings, too.


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That’s a scary deal. That failure at the wrong time could lead to serious injury or worse. I’m surprised we haven’t heard of such an incident involving injury yet. Or at least I haven’t.
 

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Basically, every time it gets dirty, while you are washing it, give everything a once-over. I can't really say I tighten the bolts every time, but I do at least LOOK at the bolts on the moving parts to see if they're backing off. Here's a tip: If you need to take the A-arm nuts off, get new ones. The metal locknut style has a tendency to fatigue. So does the nylon, but the metal ones seem to do it worse. I've lost A-arm bolts on the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
do you think i should remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and try to tighten this down on the ball joint stud?
Also, my A arm bolts don't have cotter pins unless I'm looking at the wrong thing. Just the upper and lower ball joint studs have castle nuts/cotter pins. (I have an '08)

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do you think i should remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and try to tighten this down on the ball joint stud?
Also, my A arm bolts don't have cotter pins unless I'm looking at the wrong thing. Just the upper and lower ball joint studs have castle nuts/cotter pins. (I have an '08)

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I should have been more clear. The ball joint stud is where you need to be looking. Read through that thread I linked. Specifically where they talked about shimming between the bottom of a-arm and top of the castle nut. The issue is (and I’m going from memory here) that if that’s not all tight and there’s any slop there, the threads on the ball joint stud can sheer from constantly being beat on from hard riding over time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I should have been more clear. The ball joint stud is where you need to be looking. Read through that thread I linked. Specifically where they talked about shimming between the bottom of a-arm and top of the castle nut. The issue is (and I’m going from memory here) that if that’s not all tight and there’s any slop there, the threads on the ball joint stud can sheer from constantly being beat on from hard riding over time.
Good, that's the thread I read. Not all 182 replies but most of them. Things look really good on my bike. I have very low miles but I'm going to inspect this weekend, thanks.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
And if you find something that needs to be torqued and you don't have the proper specs, use German Torquing method.....GUTTENTIGHT.
seriously speaking, some forum members were questioning Yamaha's rec for "only" 22 lbs-ft (if I recall). Might not be advisable but I was going to see what that felt like with the torque wrench and then probably do a little more
 

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And if you find something that needs to be torqued and you don't have the proper specs, use German Torquing method.....GUTTENTIGHT.
I know a guy that used that mentality. Last year he stripped a couple lug bolt splines out of the hub. Then didn't torque his primary right..came loose stripped the fixed, fried the weights.. ruined $150 worth of parts. Another time I let him use my torque wrench to torque his lugs on his Grizz set the wrench to 40 lbs..okay good..but when his got to 40 he gave it another half turn..that probably equaled 75-85 lbs.

seriously speaking, some forum members were questioning Yamaha's rec for "only" 22 lbs-ft (if I recall). Might not be advisable but I was going to see what that felt like with the torque wrench and then probably do a little more
Go by the book unless you are an engineer and have installed fasteners and parts that have test and rated for higher torques.

The real German proverb is "sometimes too tight is too loose"

My 2.0162¢
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I know a guy that used that mentality. Last year he stripped a couple lug bolt splines out of the hub. Then didn't torque his primary right..came loose stripped the fixed, fried the weights.. ruined $150 worth of parts. Another time I let him use my torque wrench to torque his lugs on his Grizz set the wrench to 40 lbs..okay good..but when his got to 40 he gave it another half turn..that probably equaled 75-85 lbs.


Go by the book unless you are an engineer and have installed fasteners and parts that have test and rated for higher torques.

The real German proverb is "sometimes too tight is too loose"

My 2.0162¢
I'm talking going from 22 -->24 lbs ft. It's not a mentality. I agree with you in general. This is based on my reading that many feel that this particular castle nut did not come from the factory properly tightened down, leading to near disaster in some cases.

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