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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys ive got a 2019 grizzly 700 se and looking for some more things to do to it

so far ive done
-home made snorkel
-home made rad relocate
-heated grips
-slug kit on order

just looking for some more mods
97695
 

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Looks like you may need a winch.
 

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Add c.v.t. mods for increased low end pull.
 

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And anything other than stock tires for that stuff.
 

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oh its on there lol
How much of a budget are you wanting to spend? also what are you thinking you would like to add to your Grizz? the forum would direct you in the right direction and what works the best for sure.
 

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Shims and spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
And anything other than stock tires for that stuff.
yeah that wasn't intentional lol if you look to the right you can see how dry the top layer was and ive done this trail about 20 times but this winter an ice dam pushed a bunch of water and silt into the forest
 

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Looks like a lava flow and you broke through the hardened/dried crust into quicksand.
If we had that here I would take others and get them to go ahead and lead for a while :)
You didn't spin the tires enough to get mud on top of the bike, I still suggest c.v.t. mods and O.G's.
and what is out budget? we are good at spending O.P.M.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like a lava flow and you broke through the hardened/dried crust into quicksand.
If we had that here I would take others and get them to go ahead and lead for a while :)
You didn't spin the tires enough to get mud on top of the bike, I still suggest c.v.t. mods and O.G's.
and what is out budget? we are good at spending O.P.M.
haha looking for small stuff right now couple hundred bucks kinda things my 27" zillas only have 1000km on them so don't want to get rid of them quite yet
 

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Then add heated grips and grip mitts for the winter, and I like the grab strap too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12


  • Add c.v.t. mods for increased low end pull.
    what kind of clutch mods should I do I was thinking a machined primary and modified cam plate. anything else I should do? running 27" zillas looking to go to 30" itp cryptids in the next couple years... I would love to be able to throw some mud with the zillas
 

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I would limit the tire diameter to 27"s true for a grizzly, or if a tire you want measured true is under 28"s you will be OK.
As for c.v.t. mods, the only clutch in the system is the wet clutch, and that does not need to be changed. We change the pulleys, the shim mod is to raise the pulley ratio and the machined movable sheave does the same thing by different process. I learned the limit of shim for my machine, your machine (700) shim limit will be very near 1.7 mm's which is not enough to off-set taller tires.
The deal 'IS'......I measure the true stock tire diameter (which I strongly suggest others do) to determine the base the engineers used when designing the stock machine. The easy way to do this is to measure the tire roll-out (circumference) then out that number in a radius calculator found online.
Then when you add taller tires you can determine the ratio change in tires, as the tires cause drag to the drive system (more tire, more drag).
In my case I added tires 11% taller than stock, and because of the relationship of the stock tire tire to the stock c.v.t. ratio I learned to raise the pulley ratio by the same amount to return to stock feel, or more by percentage for better than stock feel.
My stock ratio was 2.5:1 so I played with mods until I got a an 11% better ratio (11'% added to 2.5 isn't much but shim will not do this for you), then I learned to do more for better than stock feel.
The 660 can handle more shim than the 700 by factory design and I now use a 3.54:1 ratio that is great.
I have to use machining in combination with shim, a narrow belt and shorter weights for this, and as these plus the shim lowers top speed, I use a cut cam plate to counter act the shim and the narrower belt and shorter weights above 20 m.p.h. I refer to mods that produce results similar to shim in what I coined shim equivalents. Here's how that goes:
I have 3 mm's removed at take-off by the machining, I can add 2.5 mm's to my 660, I can run a 1 mm narrower belt and I can run 1 mm shorter than stock weights for what I call 7.5 mm's in shim equivalents. The shim equivalents widen the space for the belt to ride on the primary, and the cut cam plate reduces this space, and can be done to start the shim mod reduction at any speed desired. (to determine this speed is tricky and tough to write about)
I use a cut cam plate to add top speed by crushing the belt more at top speed than the stock set-up did, but that mod is difficult without a good understanding of the system thus better down the road for most just learning what does what.
If I was you I would go ahead and get good tires, then sell the factory crap, to measure the difference before c.v.t. mods. For now I would have COOP do the machining, then have him throw in 1) 1 mm shim and 1) .5 mm shim in the return box. He will charge a fair price for these, then you are ready for most everything than can be done. He will do a cut cam plate for you, but I suggest you doing this yourself after you determine what you need/want. I do this mod to raise the m.p.g. (fuel range).
 
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