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Howdy all

so the other day i'm digging into the grizz to change the front diff input shaft seal and after getting the front axles out i noticed on both front bearings a good amount of lateral & vertical play, more so with the lateral play in the bearings. i pulled one of them out and it seems the vertical play is mainly happening due to the lateral play. spinning the bearings by hand their is not grinding or any thing, they could probably use a good greasing. i took a quick video, let me know what yall think. she's a 2015 that has always had the random popping when turning from the front end some wheres so maybe this could be the reason??? let me know what yall think before i add them to my parts order list.


 

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Hey...natedog56..
That bearing toast. No amount of grease will can fix that.
Be sure to slather the inside of the bear and axle shaft with lithium grease when replacing them.
 
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I have the same popping coming from the front end. Usually when turning and hitting bumps. I figured it was probably the bearing but haven't checked it yet.
 

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i figured it was junk but i always like to get a 2nd or several 2nd opinions, mine has been popping just a little since i brought her home. i wonder if this will fix it, the popping never got any worse but it never went away either. oh well... so is life, i'll just be finding me some good bearings.
 

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When you press out that bearing it will most likely fall apart. I had one bearing that the outer race was broken. A good size piece of the race fell off when I remove the bearing.

I find that usually these axle bearings will be quiet for a little while after riding in water, while a CV will not.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
that's what is strange to me though, its all in 1 piece, and when i roll it around their is no grinding or any noises nor any resistance felt by hand, only the excessive lateral play and some vertical play as well. i'll probably bust one apart and look in side to see whats going on
 

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Just changes 3 of 4 wheel bearings on mine a few months back. Two you could wiggle the tire about 1/4 ", while one of the rear ones was really bad at almost 1/2". None of them felt rough or had any noticible drag, but it didn't matter cause they were due for a change. Now all my four wheels are nice and tight! :wink2:
 

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The popping seems to be an issue with the 14 and 15 models. This has been discussed briefly in the past. Dr Mud had one of his hub and bearing replaced under warranty with very low miles if I recall correctly. If I remember correctly the dealer told him the hubs were machined to deeply allowing the bearing to move back and forth. My 14 is doing this quite a bit now and so is Blklab's 15 with only 400 or so miles. I was just thinking about starting a thread again on this to see what other members were doing. I know member Whiskeymike was talking about making a shim to put in before the hub got wallered out.
 

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now im wondering if it would be worth it to get a fully sealed bearing to replace these bad ones with so i have no need to worry about dirt, mud, water getting inside of them... any thoughts ?
 

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OME Koyo bearings are fully sealed. If you look closely at my pic in my last post you can see the seal dried up and cracked permitting water contamination. That's why people suggest you apply grease to the seals to protect them from the elements.
 

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I'll text Wade and see if he ever got anywhere on the shims for the knuckle.

I'm getting the same thing. Popping on sharp turns.
 
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Howdy all

so the other day i'm digging into the grizz to change the front diff input shaft seal and after getting the front axles out i noticed on both front bearings a good amount of lateral & vertical play, more so with the lateral play in the bearings. i pulled one of them out and it seems the vertical play is mainly happening due to the lateral play. spinning the bearings by hand their is not grinding or any thing, they could probably use a good greasing. i took a quick video, let me know what yall think. she's a 2015 that has always had the random popping when turning from the front end some wheres so maybe this could be the reason??? let me know what yall think before i add them to my parts order list.

https://youtu.be/EBzRAgP0cxQ

https://youtu.be/YpU8vWtGARI
In that second video, is the outer race of that bearing moving in the knuckle?? It appeared to me to be moving such that you could pull that bearing out by hand.
 

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In that second video, is the outer race of that bearing moving in the knuckle?? It appeared to me to be moving such that you could pull that bearing out by hand.
the second video was taken from the back side of the steering knuckle, where the router race butts up against the lip casted/machined into the knuckle the movement from the video is just of the inner race while the outer race was snugly pressed inside of the knuckle
 

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the second video was taken from the back side of the steering knuckle, where the router race butts up against the lip casted/machined into the knuckle the movement from the video is just of the inner race while the outer race was snugly pressed inside of the knuckle
Okay. I gotcha....
 

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Wade said that he hadn't done anything on it yet. He also mentioned that there's really no way to know if one machine's knuckles were machined deeper or shallower than another 14 or 15 which would mean custom shims for each affected machine. I wonder if the best fix might be new knuckles once it becomes a problem? I hadn't checked prices.
 

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Wade said that he hadn't done anything on it yet. He also mentioned that there's really no way to know if one machine's knuckles were machined deeper or shallower than another 14 or 15 which would mean custom shims for each affected machine.
That makes sense.

I wonder if the best fix might be new knuckles once it becomes a problem?
I wondered about that myself, but are you getting a new and improved design or just the same ole problem?



Blklab and myself went riding a couple weekends ago and we did almost all tight technical slow trail riding because of the extreme dust. The front ends on both machines were constantly popping. Very aggravating!
 

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Item 7 on both breakdowns for 2014. I haven't looked to see if 13- or 16+ years are the same part number or if there is a price difference.

Front



Rear

 

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It appears that 14 and 18 front and rear are the same part. I checked 14 against 12 and it looks like the front is different (and more expensive) but the rear is the same. This was all on my phone with lots of screen shots so somebody might want to check me.
 
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I looked up the knuckle assembly part 7 oem# 2BG-F3501-10-00
I found the same number and price for 2013,14,18
 

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I looked up the knuckle assembly part 7 oem# 2BG-F3501-10-00
I found the same number and price for 2013,14,18
For 12's front assembly, I'm seeing 1HP-F3501-00-00 for 127.28 instead of 111.98 like 14 and 18. Weird. I just picked 12 to look at because I have one sitting in the shop.

Regardless, it looks like a guy could replace his knuckles with the latest parts and probably solve the problem since the 14 (and I'm sure 15) parts are the same as 18...? Surely, they would have sold off the old defective inventory that 14 and 15 came with by now....? What do you think, Reo?
 
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