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Is their a tapered wheel bearing available for the 700? They would last a lot longer than the standard rollies .
 

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Is their a tapered wheel bearing available for the 700? They would last a lot longer than the standard rollies .
To my knowledge, there is no other different bearing types that works or is swappable.

Why do you think a tapered bearing would last longer? Especially in the application of our ATV's with using the wheel bearing inner races to sandwich the hub on using the axle at a fairly high torque so the hub doesn't fall off.
You can't torque tapered bearings to a high torque like that. That's not how they work. They'll fail at those torque values. Additionally, throw in dirt, mud and water that our ATV's go through, and they'll fail just as fast or faster than any other bearing.

I deal with bearings on a daily basis in my line of work. All the aircraft wheels that I work on have tapered bearings. Even though they are in a constant run of synthetic grease, behind axle seals, operated in clean conditions and are very rarely contaminated, they still fail. And remember, those bearings do not have a lot of mileage on them. It's an aircraft. It goes from hanger to gate, then gate to runway....then reverse. Might put on a couple miles per day, depending on use.
Automotive tapered wheel bearings and tapered trailer bearings do not go through the same dirty conditions as ATV's do, and even these fail on a routine basis. Especially when they are not maintained with fresh regreasing.

And after all that, the factory Koyo bearing has proven to be a very durable and long lasting wheel bearing. Most get thousands upon thousands of miles out of them....and some get more than that.
Cheap bearings like All Balls are garbage. And those fail quickly. But a cheap tapered bearing would yield the same results of quick failure. You get what you pay is very applicable here.

I could be wrong though. Have been wrong many times.
 

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Do search for the bearing greaser tool...I think it is Machined Integrations . I was having a lot of trouble getting more than 500 miles out of a factory bearing. I got the tool last fall and started greasing my new bearings after every ride. I only have about 350 on them so far but new grease in them will have to help.
 

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Do search for the bearing greaser tool...I think it is Machined Integrations . I was having a lot of trouble getting more than 500 miles out of a factory bearing. I got the tool last fall and started greasing my new bearings after every ride. I only have about 350 on them so far but new grease in them will have to help.
Surprising your having so much problems with bearings. Could it be your 1.5" spacers?
My area is fairly rough riding and with 1" spacers my Koyos have held up 3000+ miles no issues. Even one of my rear wheels has a cheap Chinese National bearing with 1500 miles and it's holding up fine.
 

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I got around 10k miles on the factory bearings before I changed out 2. My Queens machine are all original. We ride plenty of water and mud slurry.

Most bearings I replace seem to last for most of 2 seasons 8-10k miles.
I use a press to carefully remove and install (no heat) then install with plenty of lithium soap grease.
I don't molest the bearing before installation.
Only KOYO bearings. Beware there are some counterfeit Chinese koyos on ebay.
 

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I got around 10k miles on the factory bearings before I changed out 2. My Queens machine are all original. We ride plenty of water and mud slurry.

Most bearings I replace seem to last for most of 2 seasons 8-10k miles.
I use a press to carefully remove and install (no heat) then install with plenty of lithium soap grease.
I don't molest the bearing before installation.
Only KOYO bearings. Beware there are some counterfeit Chinese koyos on ebay.
X2.
This is been my experience as well. While nowhere near the miles you get, I do get years out of wheel bearings. Others that work on also get years and thousands upon thousands of miles.
I also take the same precautions as you do with installing new bearings. Good proper bearing installation techniques makes a huge difference in bearing longevity.
 

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Hammering on bearings seems to shorten their life. I use a well shimmed press.
I feel using the wrong grease not greasing the axle shaft and inside race causes issues.

Running in water or washing then letting the sit for weeks or months causes bearing, seals to drt out and corrosion. Seem that we get more miles for this reason. They don't sit.
Others may feel different that fine.
Just my 2 cents

Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk
 

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Hammering on bearings seems to shorten their life. I use a well shimmed press.
I feel using the wrong grease not greasing the axle shaft and inside race causes issues.

Running in water or washing then letting the sit for weeks or months causes bearing, seals to drt out and corrosion. Seem that we get more miles for this reason. They don't sit.
Others may feel different that fine.
Just my 2 cents

Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk
I never thought about that but I wash mine very good after each ride and it might be weeks or months before the next ride. I think the muddy , rocky , and sandy area I ride has the most to do with the premature bearing failure along with the spacers. The original ones Yamaha installed didn't last long either but I'm hoping the greaser tool will help.
 

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@jvictory1974..Yep after every ride I wash the radiator, the brakes the shocks and as best I can the area of the axle,bearing and hub.

On the Kodis I also wash the control cables for the front diff and wet brakes.

I just rinse off all the cosmetic crap.... cause I'll be riding again the next day.

I do believe that storing the machine for weeks or months with wet bearings is a problem. Take'm for a 4-5 mile dry ride.
 

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Could the reason be cost related? Ball bearing less expensive to make and install with it's self contained races vs separate races for tapered and higher cost?
 

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Here is what I think I know and I am very likely to be wrong. The ball bearings in the grizzly are a shielded bearing they are not sealed. When I look at the parts for the Kawasaki model that they came out of there are wheel seals that help protect the bearings. I knows the grizzly does not have separate seals. I have three Grizzlies all the same year two of them have wheel spacers on them my 700 has ITP Wheels which are also offset I believe. My son's grizzly he likes to wallow in every mud and water hole he can find like a Labrador Retriever goes through bearings fairly quickly. My wife machine that very seldom if ever gets in the water and mud, bearings last a long time. My machine with the ITP Wheels bearings last somewhere in between because I do get into mud water just not on purpose. All three machines are clean basically the same with a pressure washer or hose. During the winter I found bearings I believe on eBay that are sealed. I found them by searching for the Kawasaki bearing looking for the Kawasaki model I did not search by the bearing number. I bought two of them I have not ran them yet to see how well they last. The ball bearings Yamaha uses do not use the ball's to tighten against like a cone or tapered roller bearing. I believe if you had a roller bearing in there in the dirt getting in there wearing on them you would have a nightmare trying to keep your wheels tight.
 

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I just swapped mine out last weekend on a 2011 with 2200 miles. Like other posts have said the Kawasaki Teryx front wheel bearing is the identical bearing at half price. Yamaha wanted $80 CAD and Kawasaki $42 CAD. No brained for a genuine OEM wheel bearing.

I left my bearings in the freezer over night and warmed (not heated) the hub with a heat gun and they slipped right in with some lithium grease, one needed a couple taps from a rubber mallet. Same technique worked for my upper ball joints. (I broke those getting the hub off they had a lot more life in them 😔)

To sum it up I’d highly recommend getting OEM bearings just buy them from Kawasaki not Yamaha.
 
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