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First off, I’m a new member. I have a new 2018 Grizzly 700 (blue) with 70km. The problem I’m having is when I’m plowing snow I sometimes, by accident, raise the plow to the max where it can’t go any futher and the the winch strains, causing the bike to stall. The breaker on the + starts arcing, the toggle switch no longer works, and the plow is stuck in the up position. It will continue to arc until I cuts the rope for the winch off the plow to take the strain off the winch. Once in does this everything is fine again.
It’s seems to me that the positive wire is becoming negative some how? Weather it be shorting out in the winch (motor windings) or the contactor isn’t returning to its normal state?
Any help would be great! TIA
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is wired from the battery to the contactor then to the winch. Toggle switch is then connected to the contactor
 

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2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS
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First, be careful you don't hurt yourself by having the plow fall on your foot or ??? When it is in a stuck position, if you have someone lift up on the plow while you try to put the winch in Free-Spool, will that release the tension?

If i understand a winch motor correctly, the two heavy gauge wires coming from it reverse the flow of amps depending on which way the winch spool should be turning. My older Warn RT25 winch has a thick gauge Yellow and Blue wires connected directly to the winch. Of course, those come from the Contactor. So, for the spool coming IN, the Yellow wire might be + and the Blue wire would then be -. For the spool going OUT, the Yellow wire would be - and the Blue wire would then be +.

Almost sounds like the winch is going into overload because of binding but that wouldn't explain the arcing. What winch/model and how old in the winch/contactor? Can you remove the winch and test it by touching the winch wires to a battery? Again, be very careful doing this and wear some thick leather gloves so you don't send current through yourself.
 

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You probably have too much amperage going through the switch and the internal connection is just staying connected no matter what the switch is doing. You really need to have a 30amp or larger solenoid or relay so that the power is fed directly to the winch through the relay/solenoid.

This is a good diagram...simple set-up.



My Bigbear has an original winch set-up, and it is run through a simple Ford style solenoid. Not sure the exact wiring diagram on mine...I have not traced all the wires yet, but it works fine.
 

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There is a couple possibilities that could be happening. But first we need to know what "breaker on the + starts arcing" means?
Do you mean the the + terminal on the contactor arcs?

Have you checked the contactor wire connections for loose connections? If the nuts are tightened down, you should not see any arcing. Check the wires on the winch itself for tight connections. Arcing usually only happens when there is a "gap", and the arc jumps the gap, especially under load. Additionally, a loose connection can cause weak winch performance, burning of the contacts and wires, and failure of the contactor or winch itself.

Inside the contactor is 2 relays, creating essentially 2 electrical circuits. One for winch in, and one for winch out. Sometimes one relay can become stuck, with the internal contacts almost welded to each other.
Most winches (not all) have a stall. If it reaches such a strain, it will just stop pulling. Actually every winch I have stalled has released all pressure. It just goes slack. I do not believe yours is stalling at this point as if your winch was still pulling under full power, it should damage your plow and/or bumper.
Years ago a guy had that happen on him. He was plowing snow with his young son on with him. His son pushed the winch in button and held it there. The winch picked up the plow and just kept going. It ripped off the hook of the plow, bent push frame and damaged the bumper and front rack....and that was just a 2500 lbs Champion Winch.
 

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My Bigbear has an original winch set-up, and it is run through a simple Ford style solenoid. Not sure the exact wiring diagram on mine...I have not traced all the wires yet, but it works fine.
Your Big Bear must have the old Warn A2000 winch. It should have a grey or black round switch. Rotate left or right for in or out?
If/When the rotating switch fails (common issue), replace the hole wiring system with a contactor style setup. This will make the winch a 2500 lbs winch. It was a upgrade you could purchase from Warn (still can), but any winch manufacturer contactor setup will work.
You get the extra 500 rated pull because the rotating switch cannot get the same power to the winch motor as the contactor style.
 
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Your Big Bear must have the old Warn A2000 winch. It should have a grey or black round switch. Rotate left or right for in or out?
If/When the rotating switch fails (common issue), replace the hole wiring system with a contactor style setup. This will make the winch a 2500 lbs winch. It was a upgrade you could purchase from Warn (still can), but any winch manufacturer contactor setup will work.
You get the extra 500 rated pull because the rotating switch cannot get the same power to the winch motor as the contactor style.
You nailed it....that is the exact set-up I have.:thumbsup Great info I will definitely do that upgrade. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It wasn’t possible to lift the plow any higher because I maxed it out using the winch by accident. Once all this strain came onto the winch it shut the bike off and the positive wire on the battery(from the contactor) started arcing. I couldn’t get it to stop arcing until... I cut my winch rope releasing all the strain from the winch. That’s the part I don’t understand. Why did all the tension on the winch cause the red wire to arc??? Seems to me as though something inside the winch shifted cause a winding to touch the frame of the motor in return, turning the red wire into a - ??
The winch Is new and it’s a Canadian tire one 4000lbs
 

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Check the battery terminals for security. Recheck the wire to make sure it's tight. Sometimes the bolt will be bottomed out on the battery but not clamping the wires, causing a loose connection and arcing.
A loose connection can cause the winch contactor to stick or even chatter under load due to insufficient current and voltage.

A 4000 lbs winch should rip that plow and bumper to pieces if still pulling under full power when the plow brings up at maximum lift. That's why I think you got a loose connection.
 
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