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First things first. Put the winch in free spool, and unwind the cable fully. What you need to see is at the base of the cable.
The cable will attract to the drum with the least bend of the cable (or rope) to avoid fatigue.
If it doesn't work better in the right direction, and your issue is not resolved with clean contacts and the right direction, your disgust with the brand will require you to replace it anyways, so don't worry about the time it will take to rewind the cable if it does not improve. :)
How will that solve his issue? The way the cable is attached to the drum will make zero difference. Direction of wind on spool will not make a difference in operation either. The only thing that should effect is if it has a one way or a 2 way brake. The break will only engage at rest, not while spooling/unspooling.

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The issue sounds like corrosion/poor connection anyways. (Which has already been mentioned) and winding the cable backwards will cause premature death of the cable, due to metal fatigue of the cable. Direction does matter, and what I said WILL show which direction the winch is SUPPOSED TO be wound, to tighten the cable, so that should be the starting point of knowing if it is wired correctly or not.
(For what it's worth, I am a service tech, and do work with cable daily. I may be new to four-wheelers, but fixing and installing machinery is part of my job, just very different machines.)
As for the angle to the drum, it is not the anchor point that provides the pull, but the friction of the first few wraps on the drum, that's why on every winch or come-a-long, it says in the instructions, not to pull at full extension, but put a couple wraps on the drum first. And, if you have replaced your cable at anytime, you will have noticed that the attachment point is off centered, to lay cable on the drum with the least deflection, and the least damage to the cable itself, so direction matters to the longevity of the cable, therefore, the requirement of the parts, determines the starting point of your search for the problem.
When I am searching for the failure of a machine, the first thing done, is document what you have, then remove anything beyond the minimum, and test the part, once that part is proven to work correctly, move outward and connect one system at a time, until the problem shows up.
So, check what the part requires first, disconnect it and test the part itself with jumpers, if it works correctly, check what controls it, and what changes directions. Test each step. Check the incoming voltage with a meter, I have 4 meters on the truck at all times, because knowing watts watts matters. Might have a pinched wire, or a bad connection.
My first thought, is that the previous owner, who did the installation, may have pinched a wire in the process, and never got full voltage to the winch as a result. So check the part first, with a direct proven power source, and move on to controls only after the part is proven.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
First things first. Put the winch in free spool, and unwind the cable fully. What you need to see is at the base of the cable.
The cable will attract to the drum with the least bend of the cable (or rope) to avoid fatigue.
If it doesn't work better in the right direction, and your issue is not resolved with clean contacts and the right direction, your disgust with the brand will require you to replace it anyways, so don't worry about the time it will take to rewind the cable if it does not improve. :)
Very valid point! I will be doing this on my lunch break today (working from home ?)
I keep going back to the battery because the bike is a 2013 and its still got the original battery in it. I keep it on a tender and it fires first try or with a little choke. I was planning on just ordering a new one anyway with the most cranking amps i could find in that size. I dont even know if that would help. Im just trying to avoid standing there scratching my head if its always been the battery!
 

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Before assuming anything, I would first check the winch itself. Make sure the motor is not the issue. This can be done by simply using booster cables. Unwind a couple feet of cable. Then use the booster cable and hook power directly to the winch terminals. It should operate. If the winch operates correctly, work back from there. If the winch is still slow, you found your problem.

I looked at the picture. The 2 silver cubes are automatic resetting circuit breakers. They act like a fuse in case of a short or overloading of the winch which could cause a electrical spike. They'll reset on their own though. I almost always remove these now as they are a constant source of trouble. They never last long and they'll usually give you trouble at the very moment your stuck and need the winch. You'll notice most of the high end winch manufacturers do not use them.
If your problem is in the electrical, I would start by removing those circuit breakers. This is one of the rare instances I tell someone to remove a electrical protection device.

If problem still persists, then look into the winch contactor wiring. You can easily go into any Canadian tire, find this winch on the shelf, and take a picture of the wiring diagram or installation wiring in the manual.

If the wiring is good, then I would suspect a bad contactor.

Because your winch starts off good for a second then slows, I suspect it's either a bad circuit breaker or incorrect wiring.
 

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The only true way to tell if the battery is bad is to have it load tested. Remove the battery and take it to an auto shop, Walmart, etc. It should be a free and quick check to tell you if the battery is due for replacement.

you mention the winch is newer, but has it ever been through mud or crud? There are videos out there that show Warn winches can get so much muck in them, they can be rendered useless and need cleaning... or replacement. Is that a possibility with the brand of winch you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hi again all!!
So I am very happy yet still confused. I went out and unspooled all the wire. For whatever reason I decided to just the winch with the bike OFF. Everything worked perfect! It spooled quickly and I was unable to stop it with my own strength (not to say it will pull the 3,500). Thats where the happiness ends.
I decided to start the bike up because I didnt want to kill the battery. With the bike running, the winch stopped working again! I really hope there is a clear answer to this one! At least at this point I know if I get stuck I can just turn the bike off and get out. Please tell me I just need to replace the battery lol....
 

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Well that won’t work if you ever want to put something like a plow on it. Something is draining power from the winch when it is running, If the wiring is correct I would suspect a bad contactor.
 

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I decided to just take a picture.Hope this helps... View attachment 97179
Hey....just a question here, so where is the winch getting power from?
I don't know the 450's but that red wire on the battery looks like stock power cable to the bike so where is the power for the winch picked up? The red wire in the top picture looks to have a different finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hey....just a question here, so where is the winch getting power from?
I don't know the 450's but that red wire on the battery looks like stock power cable to the bike so where is the power for the winch picked up? The red wire in the top picture looks to have a different finish.
So there are 4 little holes drilled into the side of that back compartment. 2 red and 2 black wires all same gauge im assuming for winch. 1 pair red and black go to winch, the other pair are routed up near the battery. I removed that little black plastic cover piece from the previous photo to show more wires. I followed the red and black wire to where I am pointing. The black is connected beside the red to the right although its hard to see. I dont know what that is that they are connected to but the battery seems to be connected to the same thing.

I just ordered a new heavy duty battery so that should be charged and installed hopefully in the next couple days. I explained the situation to the parts guy at the yamaha dealership and he said its most likely the battery. This doesnt really make sense to me so I hope to hear your opinions. Thanks again!

IMG_6021.jpg
 

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You'll understand my question to this when you try to get the new battery in. I can't see how it will help you as the current battery works to turn the winch and start the engine.
You have not answered the question so I will wait. Your pictures are not good enough for someone on a computer to help you completely. All you have shown is a pile of wires in one compartment in one picture and the top of a battery in another with not enough wires.
The only one that has got anything out of this is the dealer parts guy so far, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Sorry, I thought I kind of answered your question in a roundabout way. The winch cables are not hooked up directly to the leads on the battery, they are hooked up to points in the picture that I am pointing at. The battery is also hooked up to these same points. This would mean to me that the winch is hooked directly up to the battery and this is where the winch is getting its power from to answer your question.
If there is a picture you think i should take to help you please let me know and I will take it as I am not sure what you are looking for.

As for the parts guy, he was getting the sale regardless of all of this as i previously mentioned the battery is old so i wanted to replace it anyway. I dont know what you think I will see when I replace the battery as it looks to me like I will simply disconnect the black and red wires, replace the old battery, and reconnect the two wires.
 

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.....so the question, as I see it, is what is the winch sharing power with at that point? It could be something as stupid as the polarity of the wire attached backwards. In that case, it would effect the direction of the DC motor, and might even cancel out whatever ot is tied to electrically. You need to know what you are tied into, where it goes, and what it does. It is also possible, that it got tied in in series, not parallel.
(I've seen that in ac machines, or when the legs get confused. In that particular case, live AC was present in a 24vt sc circuit every time the furnace was also running. Furnace guy inverted two legs.)
If it were me, I would want power to be fed direct from the battery, not tied into anything else, and with good sized heavy wire to pass the current.
I would also suggest a multimeter. You can get an auto ranging, auto tuning digital meter for far less than that new battery. (Speaking of which, I would suggest you have the old battery tested, and set it aside as a spare, or a testing tool, if it passes load testing.)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
.....so the question, as I see it, is what is the winch sharing power with at that point? It could be something as stupid as the polarity of the wire attached backwards. In that case, it would effect the direction of the DC motor, and might even cancel out whatever ot is tied to electrically. You need to know what you are tied into, where it goes, and what it does. It is also possible, that it got tied in in series, not parallel.
(I've seen that in ac machines, or when the legs get confused. In that particular case, live AC was present in a 24vt sc circuit every time the furnace was also running. Furnace guy inverted two legs.)
If it were me, I would want power to be fed direct from the battery, not tied into anything else, and with good sized heavy wire to pass the current.
I would also suggest a multimeter. You can get an auto ranging, auto tuning digital meter for far less than that new battery. (Speaking of which, I would suggest you have the old battery tested, and set it aside as a spare, or a testing tool, if it passes load testing.)
I really wish I new more about electrical. It looks like the battery is hooked directly to the unit with all the fuses. The winch power connections are bolted to the exact same posts. Thats about all I can tell you unfortunately. There are a few more inches of cable available that I think I can use to just hook up directly to the battery but it will be very tight. If you really think this will solve the issue than maybe I will give that a try tonight. Nobody on here has definitively said to me that the battery is NOT the problem which is why I keep leaning towards just waiting until I can hook up the new battery and test it.
 

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Have you looked online for a wiring diagram from the winch manufacturer? That could be very helpful.
 

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Sorry, rereading what I wrote, sounds a bit abrupt. Not my intent, but words through wires.
If you jump directly to the battery, and it works properly, then the problem is not the winch. If the battery starts the bike, and runs the winch, but not together, then it is unlikely the problem is the battery.
Sounds like the problem is between the two points. (Battery/winch). When the bike runs, you should have more voltage, not less, so something is not right, either in the supply voltage, the wires themselves, or the switches/controls.
Without a meter, you're flying blind, and just chasing possibilities.
It could be a weak battery, but it's not likely, because the charging system would improve the issue, not cause a problem. So I'm thinking you have a bad connection, a shorted wire that is bleeding off voltage when something else is active, maybe even a bad switch grounding out.
But I doubt it's the battery or the winch, I'm thinking an error in installation, or a poor connection.
(Keep in mind, I'm not a engine mechanic, I'm a service tech in another industry.)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Sorry, rereading what I wrote, sounds a bit abrupt. Not my intent, but words through wires.
If you jump directly to the battery, and it works properly, then the problem is not the winch. If the battery starts the bike, and runs the winch, but not together, then it is unlikely the problem is the battery.
Sounds like the problem is between the two points. (Battery/winch). When the bike runs, you should have more voltage, not less, so something is not right, either in the supply voltage, the wires themselves, or the switches/controls.
Without a meter, you're flying blind, and just chasing possibilities.
It could be a weak battery, but it's not likely, because the charging system would improve the issue, not cause a problem. So I'm thinking you have a bad connection, a shorted wire that is bleeding off voltage when something else is active, maybe even a bad switch grounding out.
But I doubt it's the battery or the winch, I'm thinking an error in installation, or a poor connection.
(Keep in mind, I'm not a engine mechanic, I'm a service tech in another industry.)
All Good! Thank you for your insight. I think the problem is solved! It really wasnt much work to hook the power up directly to the battery. I ran a quick test and it runs waaayyy better!
I still do not understand the issue. It was probably something like you mentioned where with the ATV running, it was sharing power with something else. It all seems to be running perfectly now. I have a new issue of a stripped thread on the ground terminal on the battery but for now it holds tight enough. I could run a tap through it but the new battery I needed anyway is on the way!

I appreciate everyones help!!
 

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I did nothing, but make you think. You solved the problem.
Now on to secondary problems....whatever power drain that caused the issue, may still be there. Watch your battery voltage level for some kind of loss, as it could still cause you trouble and leave you stranded somewhere.
 
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