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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well I got my 12 inch lightbar today and it was supposed to be just a white light, it has 3 wires not 2..of course no instructions, come to find out it's a all white led when i hook up the red and black wire, when I hook up the red and white wire it's a amber fog light..didnt come with any wiring either, do I need a relay when i wire this? and I'm assuming I need a dual throw dual pole switch to utilize the different light options, I've looked at different diagrams online but they don't look like what I need, but then again I'm not a electrical wizard either..any ideas? thanks...i posted this on another site as well but would like to get some input from here too...ive done some research and what id like to do is wire the white light to come on with high beams and the amber light to come on with a,separate switch, can this be done with a single relay wiring harness and a on/off/on 3 way switch since splicing into the high beams is a protected circuit ? also it's a 192 watt light
 

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it has 3 wires not 2..of course no instructions, come to find out it's a all white led when i hook up the red and black wire, when I hook up the red and white wire it's a amber fog light..
That is somewhat confusing as what is your ground?

Here is a schematic that you can use unless you need to use two wires to power the Fogs (not including ground)... hence my being a bit confused by your statement above. I highly suggest installing the fuse block too unless you know you will not have other aftermarket electrical devices. Also, absolutely on using a relay and fuses for your light bar.

[In reference to the attached schematic] If you don't want to use a lighted switch, omit the black wiring going to only the switch. If you don't want to install a fuse block, the red wire from pin 87 on the top relay goes to pin 2 on the switch. Ground is ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
sorry for the confusion, when i hook up the red wire to positive and black to ground the light is powered on to the white light...when i hook the red wire to positive and the white wire to ground i get the amber light if that makes sense?
 

· Grizzled Moderator
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OK. That makes sense now. That light bar has a single power feed and each circuit could then be controlled by ground.

The issue with my current schematic is that using the high beam power to energize the relay, passing voltage for the high beam circuit can't be used in the same way if you are switching ground.

Let me think about this.


EDIT: rethinking this. What happens when both the black and white and ground and then you put power to the red wire? Assuming both light circuits are lit?
 

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It's actually very simple electrical circuit. It only looks more difficult than it is.
And while I recommend using relays (I always do), you do not require it for a 12" LED bar. A 12" double row bar using using 3 watt LED's uses only 6 amps at 12 volts. The higher the voltage, the less amps it uses. So when above idle rpm, (at stator output voltage of 14 volts) your light bar is drawing just above 5 amps. Most automotive light switches are rated well above that.....BUT make sure, absolutely, positively use fuses. Mount the fuse as close to the power source as possible.

BUT after saying that above...If you want to wire the bar to come on with your high beams, then you MUST install a relay for that circuit.

Going only by what you stated above, the red wire is common between both circuits, so it should be your ground. To find out just hook it up to a battery. The good part about LED's is that nothing bad will happen if hooked up backwards. They just won't come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
just double checked again with a,battery..the only way it works is when the red is hooked to positive..when the black is hooked to ground it's bright white..when red to positive and white to ground it's amber..so it seems the red is constant power and the white is ground for amber light..the black wire is ground for the white light
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
that makes sense Dezz but these are 8 watt x 24 bulbs so its 192 watts..for simplicity could I still skip the relays and not tap into my high beams and use a fuse on the positive wire to the light? would a 3 way switch handle the amps on this configuration?
 

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that makes sense Dezz but these are 8 watt x 24 bulbs so its 192 watts..for simplicity could I still skip the relays and not tap into my high beams and use a fuse on the positive wire to the light? would a 3 way switch handle the amps on this configuration?
In this case with such a large amperage draw (14 amps minimum), you need relays. Install 2 relays for each lighting circuit, but use double throw switch to operate it or use your high beam for the white light. Again, it sounds harder than it is.
Wiring in relays like this is simple, it just takes more wires.
 

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I have not tested this but this should work. And I believe I captured what you were looking to do, that is, the white light works when switched on AND brights are on. OR, the fogs come on when switched on. This circuit will not allow both lights to operate at the same time and of course, you must have power running on your Grizzly.
 

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BTW, I'm sure there are multiple ways to accomplish the same thing so I'd be curious to see what the other site comes up with.
 
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