Wiring Led bar ?

8308 Views 21 Replies 7 Participants Last post by norm2704, Oct 30, 2017

Butternut

Discussion Starter · Oct 22, 2017

After a year i'm finally going to hook up the Auxbeam 72 w LED. I have the wire,relay, inline fuse. Really scratching my head to figure out access the yellow wire for the high beams . Anyone have details how to get to that yellow wire ,so i can splice into it . This is a 2016 Griz Thanks Don

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

Madkawi750

· #2 · Oct 22, 2017

I love having my led bars on their own switches. I turn them on and off when I want. I would not like it hooked to my high beam lights.
I have lit up switches on the side of my pod and can switch them off quickly if I meet an oncoming rider at night.. (which is rare for me).

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Butternut

Discussion Starter · #3 · Oct 22, 2017

led

I pulled the lower lower shield off the high beam light and pulled the rubber boot back enough to see the yellow wire coming out of the back of the headlight It is really tight in there for room . The wire loom is taped up to the light from what i can see. As far as riding with a group at night just won,t happen with me . No time ,and still dealing with neck issues from surgery . That being said a separate switch ,i would consider , if its a major chore to get into that yellow wire. I appreciate the comments. Thanks again Don

norm2704

· #4 · Oct 22, 2017 (Edited)

Take the front part of the headlight pod off, and you have access to the yellow high beam wire right there..

I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing as you are.. Even with the same light. My biggest issue was mounting the light, I'm not 100% happy with my rack mount solution... (And I have to silicone and zip tie the grommet on the light assy.)

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Butternut

Discussion Starter · #5 · Oct 22, 2017

I did pull the cover and all i see are wire looms covered in black tape . I bought a tube bar bracket off ebay that fits the rack bar and works with the Auxbeam. It was under 20 bucks.

DrMud

· #6 · Oct 22, 2017

Not sure of your thoughts, but you will want to be able to turn the bar light off and have headlights on at times, usually when meeting other riders or returning to camp, or load out area, the bar light will work great unless you are meeting somebody, they will be painfully blinded.

YACC MEMBER # 7:happy:

2014 Grizzly 550 EPS, Richochet Full Set Skids, Fender Flares, Yamaha front Brush Guard, Moose Rear Bumper, Front and Rear cargo Box, Icom 2980 Ham Radio & 12 volt lithium battery in front box

2015 Grizzly 700 Eps, Warn Winch, Richochet full plate skids, OEM Hand Guards, Rigid Duallies, Fender Flares, ITP rims, 26” Bighorns, 1.5 mm shim (Ridgway Install)

2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS
My Sons: 29.5 laws or 27" Bighorns, SS12 ITP Rims, Richochet Full Set Skids, performance Snorkels, 1.5mm shim, Yamaha Brush Bumper, Moose rear bumper, Epi clutch kit, ATV nerf bars, Warn winch.

2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS Yamaha skid plates, Yamaha hand guard, Yamaha Brush bumper, Moose fender flares, ATV Nerf Bars, EPI Clutch Kit, Rigid Duallies, 1mm shim, Moose GPS Finger Grip mount, Garmin GPS, Warn winch, Performance Snorkles, 27" Bighorns, SS12 ITP Platinum rims.

wheelsquad

· #7 · Oct 22, 2017

Butternut said:
I did pull the cover and all i see are wire looms covered in black tape . I bought a tube bar bracket off ebay that fits the rack bar and works with the Auxbeam. It was under 20 bucks.

Sounds like you need to carefully unwind the black tape to find your yellow wire.

DrMud said:
Not sure of your thoughts, but you will want to be able to turn the bar light off and have headlights on at times, usually when meeting other riders or returning to camp, or load out area, the bar light will work great unless you are meeting somebody, they will be painfully blinded.

Sounds like he just wants to trigger off the high beams. Which is what I've done. Works great. Somebody coming and just flip it to low beams and the light bar shuts off with the high beams.

Butternut

Discussion Starter · #8 · Oct 22, 2017

led

tythomps said:
Sounds like you need to carefully unwind the black tape to find your yellow wire.

Sounds like he just wants to trigger off the high beams. Which is what I've done. Works great. Somebody coming and just flip it to low beams and the light bar shuts off with the high beams.

Yup exactly what i want to do.

Butternut

Discussion Starter · #9 · Oct 22, 2017

led

norm2704 said:
Take the front part of the headlight pod off, and you have access to the yellow high beam wire right there..

I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing as you are.. Even with the same light. My biggest issue was mounting the light, I'm not 100% happy with my rack mount solution... (And I have to silicone and zip tie the grommet on the light assy.)

I see it in your pic , did you have to pull that bundle up from behind the light? Because that's where mine seems to be buried ?

norm2704

· #10 · Oct 22, 2017

Nope, it was right there behind the pod light... didn't have to unwrap anything.

I'm waiting for an order to come in from amazon with the matching 3.9mm bullet connectors so I won't have to splice the factory wiring...

Butternut

Discussion Starter · #11 · Oct 22, 2017

LED

norm2704 said:
Nope, it was right there behind the pod light... didn't have to unwrap anything.

I'm waiting for an order to come in from amazon with the matching 3.9mm bullet connectors so I won't have to splice the factory wiring...

For sure 3 wires in silicone sleeves . Are you going to slice the clear boot to get at the connector ? Then use the 3.9 mm bullet female/male to attach what you pull apart , then 2 bullets into a double which connects to the relay?

Butternut

Discussion Starter · #12 · Oct 23, 2017

norm2704 said:
Take the front part of the headlight pod off, and you have access to the yellow high beam wire right there..

I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing as you are.. Even with the same light. My biggest issue was mounting the light, I'm not 100% happy with my rack mount solution... (And I have to silicone and zip tie the grommet on the light assy.)

The mount i have is this one off ebay 2 piece 1" Off Road Led light bar mounting clamp mounting kit ATV/4X4/Polaris /Jeep/boat/truck/boat sold by Zomkspeed check it out the head swivels so you can mount it to the auxbeam bottom bracket . Fits front rack well.

Afflyer205

· #13 · Oct 23, 2017

I put a handle bar mount switch right next to the existing switch to keep from splicing.

norm2704

· #14 · Oct 23, 2017

No, the silicone boot is a 2 piece boot, one on the female bullet and one on the male bullet connector. I plan on making a type of "T" harness that will plug between the 2 original connectors on the bike, with the free end connecting to the relay for the light bar. So when I flip the high beam switch, the light bar will come on.

The 3.9mm male and female bullet connectors I ordered come with the silicone boots for both the male and female side... should be here this week...

I also need to hook into my switched power to power my GPS unit, I'll use these same bullet connectors, as the silicone boots seem to make these pretty water resistant..

Butternut

Discussion Starter · #15 · Oct 24, 2017

led

norm2704 said:
No, the silicone boot is a 2 piece boot, one on the female bullet and one on the male bullet connector. I plan on making a type of "T" harness that will plug between the 2 original connectors on the bike, with the free end connecting to the relay for the light bar. So when I flip the high beam switch, the light bar will come on.

The 3.9mm male and female bullet connectors I ordered come with the silicone boots for both the male and female side... should be here this week...

I also need to hook into my switched power to power my GPS unit, I'll use these same bullet connectors, as the silicone boots seem to make these pretty water resistant..

Did not know they were 2 piece , i tried pulling it apart , no go. Might need a little more effort? I ordered the 3.9 off ebay thanks much for the tip.

norm2704

· #16 · Oct 24, 2017

The silicone boot is longer on the female side of the connector. If you your nail along the whole silicone boot you'll notice the ridge where both pieces butt up against each other.. pull and twist, they should come apart..

Reactions: 1

Butternut

Discussion Starter · #17 · Oct 25, 2017

Duh ! Came right apart .

Butternut

Discussion Starter · #18 · Oct 30, 2017

Well i got the Auxbeam powered up yesterday tapped into the high beams ,works great . Want to thank you all for your input. Special thanks to Norm 2704 for helping locating the yellow wire and tapping without cutting factory. The bar is attached to the front rack ,and really lights things up !!!

Reactions: 1

okbear

· #19 · Oct 30, 2017

You know you’re not getting off that easy... We’ll need some pics of your install job. lol

Reactions: 1

DrMud

· #20 · Oct 30, 2017

Yeah, new pics are needed for everything, when face book took a dive on us, we lost all of our historic how to pics on the forum.

YACC MEMBER # 7:happy:

2014 Grizzly 550 EPS, Richochet Full Set Skids, Fender Flares, Yamaha front Brush Guard, Moose Rear Bumper, Front and Rear cargo Box, Icom 2980 Ham Radio & 12 volt lithium battery in front box

2015 Grizzly 700 Eps, Warn Winch, Richochet full plate skids, OEM Hand Guards, Rigid Duallies, Fender Flares, ITP rims, 26” Bighorns, 1.5 mm shim (Ridgway Install)

2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS
My Sons: 29.5 laws or 27" Bighorns, SS12 ITP Rims, Richochet Full Set Skids, performance Snorkels, 1.5mm shim, Yamaha Brush Bumper, Moose rear bumper, Epi clutch kit, ATV nerf bars, Warn winch.

2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS Yamaha skid plates, Yamaha hand guard, Yamaha Brush bumper, Moose fender flares, ATV Nerf Bars, EPI Clutch Kit, Rigid Duallies, 1mm shim, Moose GPS Finger Grip mount, Garmin GPS, Warn winch, Performance Snorkles, 27" Bighorns, SS12 ITP Platinum rims.

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