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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently installed two LED lights on the front of my Grizzly. They each had their own wiring so I just wired them straight to the battery. I was thinking there should be a way to wire them into the fuse box and maybe there is even an open place in the fuse box to add accessories. I did some digging around on this forum but couldn't find any threads discussing this exactly. I did find one mention of an "accessory wire harness" sold by Yamaha that I assume would plug into an open port on the main wire harness but I haven't found anything online supporting this.


Is there such a thing?


Is there open ports on the fuse box for accessory lighting and if so is there special connectors to add to my light wiring to plug this in?


Any help pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.


FYI each of my two lights are 15w and draw 1.07 amps.
 

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On the old machines (90's) they had accessory lighting ports. It said in the manual where they were. I don't know about the Grizzly and I can't see the signature in mobile version so I don't know if you have a 450, 550, 660, 700, etc.
 

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Did the new lights come with a relay, 4 or 5 pin, in the power harness? Did the new harness have a plug that used the original headlight connection as a trigger point to turn on the low and high beams? If they do then you don't need anything else....the wiring is isolated through the relay and will not allow any power to feed through the original headlight switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
These were aftermarket lights and I think they were designed for a truck. Each has separate wiring with an in-line fuse, a rocker switch and the leads have battery terminal rings so that's where I put them. I would prefer to not have them on the battery.


My Grizzly is a 2014 700 SE.
 

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Use a waterproof relay (auto parts stores have them) and follow the schematic below (fan = Light/accessory).

For ‘keyed’ power, you should find a multi-colored wire to the left-back side (facing your machine), piggy-back off that and run the wire into the bottom side of your switch.

Then from the upper part of your switch run a wire to the #85 ‘key power’ of the relay. That way, your relay/lights do not receive “ON” power unless your key is ON and your switch is ON.

(see below).




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Obviously, I highly recommend checking the ‘keyed’ power but if I recall correctly, it’s the middle blue/orange wire? It’s multi-colored. This is a 2018, pictured but I’m pretty sure my former 2014 was similar.

(And it’s the internet, so if you believe me and your machine blows up; I’m not responsible, blah blah blah.)


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks OpDawg. I can design and build anything with wood or metal but I'm not real comfortable with electrical stuff so I was hoping for something simpler (i.e. foolproof) but if I don't find it I may have to try this. In your diagram what does the blue line and "dual fans" refer to?


I have a battery tender cord running from my battery up to my handlebars that is not in use while riding so I was originally going to get another connection for that and connect my light wires there. But for some reason that didn't power the lights. Any idea why?
 

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Thanks OpDawg. I can design and build anything with wood or metal but I'm not real comfortable with electrical stuff so I was hoping for something simpler (i.e. foolproof) but if I don't find it I may have to try this. In your diagram what does the blue line and "dual fans" refer to?


I have a battery tender cord running from my battery up to my handlebars that is not in use while riding so I was originally going to get another connection for that and connect my light wires there. But for some reason that didn't power the lights. Any idea why?
The pic is just a generic one off google most likely.....the dual fan is just the accessory that the diagram is running, yours would be the headlights. But only using this diagram would have your lights come on as soon as the ignition is turned on....there would be no hi/lo beams.

If you wire it up this way, with dual relays, then you can use the factory headlight socket and have that trigger the new headlights through the relays.

 

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The pic is just a generic one off google most likely.....the dual fan is just the accessory that the diagram is running, yours would be the headlights. But only using this diagram would have your lights come on as soon as the ignition is turned on....there would be no hi/lo beams.

If you wire it up this way, with dual relays, then you can use the factory headlight socket and have that trigger the new headlights through the relays.



Correct. But as I stated above, put a switch in line (after the keyed power and into #85 slot) that way, your lights shut off for either “Turn Key OFF” or “Turn Switch OFF”.

Electrical is kind of hard to explain through text and many folks struggle reading electrical schematics.


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Thanks OpDawg. I can design and build anything with wood or metal but I'm not real comfortable with electrical stuff so I was hoping for something simpler (i.e. foolproof) but if I don't find it I may have to try this. In your diagram what does the blue line and "dual fans" refer to?


I have a battery tender cord running from my battery up to my handlebars that is not in use while riding so I was originally going to get another connection for that and connect my light wires there. But for some reason that didn't power the lights. Any idea why?


You can tie into this, but it’s not ‘keyed’ power, it’s direct to battery - so you’d HAVE to use a separate switch. (I wouldn’t recommend doing this because switches should be rated for the full amps your lights will be drawing. i.e. - 20Amp Switch)

Tenders [should] always be hooked direct to battery. If you’ve tried starting your machine while your tender is plugged in, I’m guessing the fuse on the tender pigtail is blown (should be located [in-line] ~3” from the battery terminals).


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I probably didn’t explain that well... Running direct to battery with an in-line switch to the lights means the switch MUST be rated for the Amps your calling for. So assuming you have (2) 60Watt lights: (2)*(60)=120W; 120W/12V=10Amps. So your switch should be rated for 10A. Most automotive switches are 20A (I believe).

If you use a relay the way I described, you bypass this load and let the relay ‘relay the load’ from the switch, if that makes sense...


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There is a well used aftermarket wiring thread linked from the http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum...irst-before-posting-updated-09-25-2017-a.html
found here: http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum...25874-how-wiring-your-aftermarket-lights.html

I've also put together a schematic on how to wire up a fuse block where you can attach your accessories that is "guarded" via its own fuse and switched on: http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum/grizzly-electrical-lighting/47331-wiring-up-fuse-block-2.html

I also have a schematic for wiring up aftermarket lights using the fuse block and I will also add that at the end of the fuse block thread.
 

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Hey Bald Eagle;
I have a 2014, and I found 2 wires that are powered by the key, that were ready to run accessories from. I checked my wife's 2011 and she has the same thing on hers. Then I called a buddy of mine who also has a 2014 and he has the same two connections wired up and good to go. These 2 wires are already connected to the 12 volt accessory plug. If you look under the front fender on the right side of your bike, look past the water proof storage compartment to the wires for your 12 volt accessory outlet and there should be 2 red wires coming from that with female connections on them. I put a voltage meter on these wires and I have power to them when the key is on, and no power when the key is off. I ran a wire from one of those wires to a relay and connected the relay to a 4 slot fuse box, and placed the relay, fuse box and a 30 amp fuse (for the relay) under my seat where the factory tool kit goes. I made a plastic cover to help keep everything dry. From the fuse panel I ran wires for my heated grips, heated seat, heated visor and my lightbar, and they are all powered from my ignition. I'm working this weekend so I don't have time to post pictures, but there is a lot of good information and pictures on this setup on the website "BillaVista.com". He wires up a fuse box to a 2014 Grizzly on that website, but I followed the setup that he used for wiring up a fuse box on an Outlander. I live in Canada, so maybe they only connect those wires on Canadian models, but I can't see them only doing it to the Canadian Grizzlies.
Good luck
 
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This is a great thread. I have learned a huge amount about proper wiring of the accesories just reading this thread, especially the posts from @OpDawg and @RedRocket. I just looked up the Blue Sea 5025 fuse block, and that looks like a great product, actually designed for the marine industry. Thanks guys.
 

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This is a great thread. I have learned a huge amount about proper wiring of the accesories just reading this thread, especially the posts from @OpDawg and @RedRocket. I just looked up the Blue Sea 5025 fuse block, and that looks like a great product, actually designed for the marine industry. Thanks guys.


Cheers, glad to help!
@RedRocket posted some great stuff, I will tell you from personal experience - I’ve wired my Blue Sea fuse blocks both 1) Keyed & 2) Switched. I prefer ‘switched’ since when I stop, I still (usually) want my accessories/GPS to run (but not my lights).

If you wire it with ‘keyed’ power, in order for your accessories to stay ON, you need to shut your bike off with the kill switch. Which normally is ok, but then you listen to your fan run & the lights stay on (draining the battery).

This may work for some folks, I just found it didn’t work for me and it should be considered before you wire each respective accessory/switch/etc.

FWIW, I wire mine the following:

Keyed Power:
Switch light indicators
Winch

Aux Switch Power:
GPS
Halo Lights
Heated Grips/thumb
Marine Radio
LED light bar (with extra switch)
Reverse LED Light

Battery Tender Pigtail (direct to battery):
Heated Clothing (w/ custom made connector)

(Below, couple pics of where I’ve mounted switches)







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@OpDawg, Very, very professional!
 
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Cheers, glad to help!
@RedRocket posted some great stuff, I will tell you from personal experience - I’ve wired my Blue Sea fuse blocks both 1) Keyed & 2) Switched. I prefer ‘switched’ since when I stop, I still (usually) want my accessories/GPS to run (but not my lights).

If you wire it with ‘keyed’ power, in order for your accessories to stay ON, you need to shut your bike off with the kill switch. Which normally is ok, but then you listen to your fan run & the lights stay on (draining the battery).

This may work for some folks, I just found it didn’t work for me and it should be considered before you wire each respective accessory/switch/etc.
I only wanted my GPS to continue to have power so ended up wiring a switched, dual USB powered connector fused direct from the battery. That allows me to keep the power on to my GPS, or any other USB powered device while my Grizzly is keyed off. I made sure to use a LED switch so I know when the USB is on. All other accessories are wired and powered via the "keyed on" fuse block. Just another way to accomplish a similar goal.
 

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I made sure to use a LED switch so I know when the USB is on.
Yes, I can't emphasize this enough. Nice mention. ...This is why I put my LED halo's on my 'switched' power block, so if I walk away or it's night - I can always see I left something running. Plus, it gives a nice ambience glow when I stop at night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey Bald Eagle;
I have a 2014, and I found 2 wires that are powered by the key, that were ready to run accessories from. I checked my wife's 2011 and she has the same thing on hers. Then I called a buddy of mine who also has a 2014 and he has the same two connections wired up and good to go. These 2 wires are already connected to the 12 volt accessory plug. If you look under the front fender on the right side of your bike, look past the water proof storage compartment to the wires for your 12 volt accessory outlet and there should be 2 red wires coming from that with female connections on them. I put a voltage meter on these wires and I have power to them when the key is on, and no power when the key is off. I ran a wire from one of those wires to a relay and connected the relay to a 4 slot fuse box, and placed the relay, fuse box and a 30 amp fuse (for the relay) under my seat where the factory tool kit goes. I made a plastic cover to help keep everything dry. From the fuse panel I ran wires for my heated grips, heated seat, heated visor and my lightbar, and they are all powered from my ignition. I'm working this weekend so I don't have time to post pictures, but there is a lot of good information and pictures on this setup on the website "BillaVista.com". He wires up a fuse box to a 2014 Grizzly on that website, but I followed the setup that he used for wiring up a fuse box on an Outlander. I live in Canada, so maybe they only connect those wires on Canadian models, but I can't see them only doing it to the Canadian Grizzlies.
Good luck

Thank you BubbaZoomy. I will look for those wire and check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thank you OpDawg and RedRocket and everyone who has posted their suggestions. All good ideas. Looks like I have some tinkering to do and a better idea of what I am doing. I really appreciate the help. I'm thinking a separate fuse box like the Blue Sea unit is the best idea for now. But now I have a new dilemma. If I mount a fuse box and I only have two small LED lights on it what to do with all that extra capacity? Hmmmm.....
 
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