[dezz]

Do you know why the case cracked on these single range tranny units? Trying to start it in gear, or ????

They cracked or failed due to insufficient support in the case. The shaft area was not built up enough, and any abnormal load (starter kick back for example), could break the gears loose from the case.
Arctic Cat had a similar issue on most of their models in the mid to late 2000's. They had a really high failure rate as the shaft was only supported on one side only. By 2009 they had it fixed with a double sided shaft support.

 

[thrashingcows]

You certainly could use some RTV to help seal the damaged areas.

You can also rebuild the damage areas with JB weld two part epoxy and block sand the them flat and true again.

I was running options through my head trying to figure something out to salvage the cases. Had thought about just JB welding the two sides together during assembly....not a choice I would resort too unless I had no other options. I like your idea though....:thumbsup

They cracked or failed due to insufficient support in the case. The shaft area was nothing enough, and any abnormal load (starter kick back for example), could break the gears loose from the case.
Arctic Cat had a similar issue on most of their models in the mid to late 2000's. They had a really high failure rate as the shaft was only supported on one side only. By 2009 they had it fixed with a double sided shaft support.

Thank you for the information, anything I can do to try and minimize this happening again in the future?

 

[Leed1315]

They cracked or failed due to insufficient support in the case. The shaft area was not built up enough, and any abnormal load (starter kick back for example), could break the gears loose from the case.
Arctic Cat had a similar issue on most of their models in the mid to late 2000's. They had a really high failure rate as the shaft was only supported on one side only. By 2009 they had it fixed with a double sided shaft support.

The only Arctic Cat I was aware that had the issue was the 500 that used the Suzuki Vinson motor. Those and the 350 400 single range Yamahas are probably the only 2 bikes I can remember ever seeing it in, but I've seen it multiple times in both of those engines. When I see a Suzuki Vinson or a 500 Arctic cat that says runs but needs starter I know whats going on and stay away. The cases are over $1000 new and are hard to find used. I had a guy once that thought he could drill a hole in the case and have a shaft machined that fit into the starter gear shaft. I think he thought he could do that on the inside and just replace the outside stator case and be good. When we were looking at it it seemed like it would work but I don't know if he ever tried it.

 

[Lawman11]

I would try to send the damaged item back. If you got it off E Bay and seller showed item to be not damaged, Ebay is good to stand behind you. When you get this ATV done you will know what you have.

 

[thrashingcows]

I would try to send the damaged item back. If you got it off E Bay and seller showed item to be not damaged, Ebay is good to stand behind you. When you get this ATV done you will know what you have.

I would if it wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg to send it back, shipping to/from Northern BC to/from USA is not cheap. I had to work a deal with friends near the border to get it into Canada from the USA, then tossed on another friend who was coming up with his commercial truck nto save myself big $$ in shipping.

I did contact the seller and he said to ship it back if I wanted, but again at my dime. Will get the bolts out, then clean the case up best I can and hope for the best. If it does start to leak a little over time I can live with that.

 

[thrashingcows]

Well I drilled out the broken bolts with LH drill bits, got two of the 4 out that way, the last two were to hold the stator cover on, on the top edge, and I had been heat cycling, penetrating fluids, tapping with hammer and punches etc for a couple weeks now. Well today I tried a fluted extractor on a 1/8" hole drilled in each one...no movement what so ever. I was being careful not to put too much torque of the extractor, but I guess I must have fatigued the metal after an hours worth of torque and the extractor broke off in one of the bolts...

So now I am considering if I should just swap the engine case anyway and install the stator cover with the missing bolts. Or another thought....do you think I could run the current engine case with the carnage to the aluminum near that oil fed bearing?

Clearly I would not have electric start anymore, but a pull start I could live with.:wink2:

 

[dezz]

Well I drilled out the broken bolts with LH drill bits, got two of the 4 out that way, the last two were to hold the stator cover on, on the top edge, and I had been heat cycling, penetrating fluids, tapping with hammer and punches etc for a couple weeks now. Well today I tried a fluted extractor on a 1/8" hole drilled in each one...no movement what so ever. I was being careful not to put too much torque of the extractor, but I guess I must have fatigued the metal after an hours worth of torque and the extractor broke off in one of the bolts...

So now I am considering if I should just swap the engine case anyway and install the stator cover with the missing bolts. Or another thought....do you think I could run the current engine case with the carnage to the aluminum near that oil fed bearing?

Clearly I would not have electric start anymore, but a pull start I could live with.:wink2:

Is there anyway you can weld a nut to the broken extractor/bolt to remove it? This is how I remove most broken hardware.

 

[thrashingcows]

Is there anyway you can weld a nut to the broken extractor/bolt to remove it? This is how I remove most broken hardware.

I guess I could try, can't hurt now I guess....not sure how much penetration I'll get since it is recessed and such a small bolt.

 

[dezz]

I guess I could try, can't hurt now I guess....not sure how much penetration I'll get since it is recessed and such a small bolt.

When removing these recessed bolts, be very careful and slow with it, and you'll do it.
When I worked at a Yamaha dealer years ago, we removed broken recessed case bolts quite often using a mig welder.
Carefully build up the broken bold using the mig. Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld....keep repeating it until the weld is above the surface. Sometimes you can grip the weld with vise grips amd twist the bolt out.
Be super careful though. If you slip even the tiny amount and damage the case threads, your done. The bolt will never come out this way.

 

[thrashingcows]

Well with nothing left to loose on those bolts I first built up the bolt where the extractor broke off with weld since it was recessed a bit (Thanks Dezz for the advice!) , then I welded on a washer, and then a large bolt. First bolt did not have good penetration on the washer so it came off when I started to try and remove the bolt, second one did the trick....bolt started to move and I slowly and carefully loosened and tightened little by little until it came out.....Whooo!!! Chased the threads with a M6x1 tap... threads are not too bad.

The other one I decided to drill it out, was a tad off center so had to use a carbide bit on my dremel to bring the rest of the bolt out to the old threads. I then worked the tap down and in a few times....top 1/4" of the threads are pretty buggered up, but the rest are pretty nice.

Think I might use a dab of blue loctite on those two bolts once I have a fastener in there, So all in all not a bad outcome I think.

 

[RedRocket]

You are correct the quad is actually a 97...produced 11/96...but I could not change the heading to the thread after the fact. :wink2:

Interesting thread for sure. I went ahead and corrected your first two posts to 1997, hope that was OK but it may help someone down the road looking for the same '97 machine.

 

[thrashingcows]

Interesting thread for sure. I went ahead and corrected your first two posts to 1997, hope that was OK but it may help someone down the road looking for the same '97 machine.

Noticed that right away...Thank you!:thumbsup

 

[thrashingcows]

Well since I finally figured out how to get the pics off my old Blackberry onto my Mac I can post some update pics and info......

Quad is all apart, motor out now....

Here is the difference /upgrades made to the engine case to stop the starter gear shaft from braking free.

97 engine case....

Replacement 2000 engine case....

Not old does it have the extra bracing to the casting the shaft runs deeper into the case as well. the original shaft the gear rode on was 61mm, this case uses a 67mm shaft. So a new shaft and cage bearing is on the way for that.

 

[thrashingcows]

Beginning the engine tear down....

Found one of the broken casting pieces....

 

[thrashingcows]

And is this normal wear on the connecting rod end and pin? Am I OK to run it or should I replace it?

 

[MATSKIE]

Any updates on the project? Fun easy machines to work on. Here's one I did a couple years ago

 

[billyabong43]

Just bought one of these pretty cheap. Starts right up and rides well on 1/4 choke, but stalls when I shut choke off. I drained the bowl but still the same. Slow trolls well, but breaks up like a Rev limiter when I get on it a bit. Also has a pretty good oil drip from the front of the left front top cylinder. No problem, I just keep oil around. Lol. Big mystery is a missing on/off switch on the riders side of the right front fender. Anyone know what that switch might have been for?? All help is appreciated.

 

[wyattmattila]

Do you still have the quad?

 

[billyabong43]

Yes

 

[billyabong43]

Yes

I ordered a manual online but never got it.