Bought a 2019 grizzly 700 eps a few weeks back, just now got to 100 miles. The guy at the dealership told me 100 miles or 20 hours but the bike only has 15 hours, should I wait to take it in or do it now? I’ve heard a few different things from a few different people.
Gwomer5
I can't speak to the 2019 (different motor) but I have a 2018 Griz 700 and it was 200 miles, not 100. I would verify in the owners manual to be sure.
Read and do what the owners manual recommends.
I always go by mileage though. The hours are untrustworthy. If you simply leave the key in the ON position without the engine running, time is still clicking away. I only use the hours as a guide, not as an absolute.
I always go by mileage though. The hours are untrustworthy. If you simply leave the key in the ON position without the engine running, time is still clicking away. I only use the hours as a guide, not as an absolute.
Welcome from Colorado.
The best recommendation is follow the owners manual for service intervals.
Be careful listening to 'the guy' at the dealership, you may be dealing with a trained monkey, a poorly trained monkey. That's why you get a book with the machine.
Oh, you should do the work yourself and if not check the oil level before you start the engine to load the bike. A buddy of mine let the local dealership 'guy' service his bike once, got it home and the 'guy' didn't add 2 qts. of oil, just one.
The best recommendation is follow the owners manual for service intervals.
Be careful listening to 'the guy' at the dealership, you may be dealing with a trained monkey, a poorly trained monkey. That's why you get a book with the machine.
Oh, you should do the work yourself and if not check the oil level before you start the engine to load the bike. A buddy of mine let the local dealership 'guy' service his bike once, got it home and the 'guy' didn't add 2 qts. of oil, just one.
200-300 miles of regular trail riding is best IMHO. NO extended periods of high speed or WOT. Stop let it cool down some then go again.
There is a lot of different opinions on the break in period on your motor, in your manual is a overall general guide for break in period on pretty much all Yamaha engines for power sports, but every engine is not exactly the same and can act differently, this is why some 700's seem to have abit more power then others and some motors will start burning oil while others will not, I have a friend that builds and rebuilds powersport engines for all brands and has told me the first hours on your new engine are the most critical, this is where the oil and filter will work the hardest, any casting flaws and milling debris that the factory missed will get picked up, also your engine will run abit hotter which puts more stress oil your break in oil which is only 2 litres, so he recommended 50 miles change oil and filter and again at 150miles and again at 300miles being abit more aggressive with the throttle each time, then your good to go, I know this sounds abit extreme but I followed his advise to the letter and never had any trouble with my 708 which are known to be trouble some, also some OEM's have special break in oils that they use for the first 100 miles for this reason, Yamaha uses regular Yamalube oil, so to each your own, this is cheap insurance. 6300km
That is definitely overkill, years ago, with old conventional oil ashes basic filters, that was normal practice. With the advanced oils we have now, and the fine filtration used on bikes now, there is no reason to do that anymore. You could run that engine at full throttle for the full 200 miles and never develop enough heat to hurt that oil. With todays filters, they will catch everything that will be left behind from milling and casting. Mind you ask those oil changes definitely will not hurt anything at all except your wallet. It's just not necessary anymore.
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Well thanks, but I don't think its overkill, if you have a new 708 or a new 2019 700 heat is a problem, why do you think so many are running fuel controllers now, these new engines are leaned out for emissions, Yamalube dino oil is pretty much the bottom of the barrel from Yamaha's supplier, to say you can run a brand new engine today at wide open throttle for 200 miles without developing any heat, good luck with that, what ever your smoking bud I want some!!
The heat issue with the newer engines is with the exhaust, not that actual operating temp. The engine itself doesn't change probably more than a couple degrees by adding a fuel controller, the exhaust temp does drop a fair bit but that doesn't effect the oil temp. Yes a bit exaggerated saying 200 miles at full throttle, but it was to get the point across, and I didn't say it wouldn't develop any heat all. with the additives and base oils used these days compared to oils from as little as 10 years ago, they have came a long way. They just don't break down like they used to.
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I feel the oil is the least important component to the break-in. Yes it hauls the debris out to be filtered, it cushions and cools the contact points of the parts and pieces. The break-in is more about the individual parts and pieces learning to fit-in. Like the rings need to seat, etc.
The break-in isn't just about the engine. All of the seals and bearings need to fit-in. Most drive belt manufactures have a breaking procedure.
The break-in isn't just about the engine. All of the seals and bearings need to fit-in. Most drive belt manufactures have a breaking procedure.
Really there are plenty of riders that never get the machine broke-in. Just riding a couple hundred miles a year, a machine rots before it is worn out.
Really, your exhaust turns red because of the heat coming out of your engine, the controller adds fuel to cool the engine temps not exhaust temps, your exhaust runs cooler because your engine is running cooler, no matter how good or advanced your regular dino oil is heat breaks it down, that's why its important to change your oil more frequent on a engine in its break in period, relying on so called advanced dino oil and fine filtration filters is risky, of course this is just my opinion, but when you pay 14 grand for a new grizzly why risk it.
If your oil breaks down in that first 200 miles there is something radically wrong with the engine or the rider.
Never seen the exhaust on any of my machines red unless run hard on open trails/routes, never trail riding.The coolant is the most important means of lowering the engine temperature. The newer machines have an oil filter cooler added that's tied into the cooling system for this reason.
Lean...Read up on these engine with a guy that isn't selling tunes. These engines only run lean at or near WOT.
How many have been reported seized because of the lean myth?
The AIS myth? It does raise exhaust not oil temperatures. The AIS only injects air at idle to burn raw gas in the exhaust. The AIS will also kick in if the sensor detects a temperature drop. Mine will start wheezing after running in deep water.
Just my 2.0162¢
Never seen the exhaust on any of my machines red unless run hard on open trails/routes, never trail riding.The coolant is the most important means of lowering the engine temperature. The newer machines have an oil filter cooler added that's tied into the cooling system for this reason.
Lean...Read up on these engine with a guy that isn't selling tunes. These engines only run lean at or near WOT.
How many have been reported seized because of the lean myth?
The AIS myth? It does raise exhaust not oil temperatures. The AIS only injects air at idle to burn raw gas in the exhaust. The AIS will also kick in if the sensor detects a temperature drop. Mine will start wheezing after running in deep water.
Just my 2.0162¢
There was lots of reports on this very site of owners with the 708 engine experiencing a red glow from their exhaust after a run more noticeable at night of course, unless Eric at EHS does not have a clue the 708 was running very lean at 1/3 throttle on the 708 and running closer to normal at 3/4 throttle, I for one trust what Eric was kind enough to point out and his controller has made a big difference in my machine, and no I have not heard of any engine seizures caused by the leanness of these engines running lean, but when you pull your plug and the tip is white any tuner will tell you that's not good for your engine, oil breaks down a little more every time you use your engine even worst when your engine is running lean weather you have 50miles or 200miles, oh yeah... running in deep water will definitely cool your engine and exhaust.
My 2011 Grizzly break in experience. ~280 miles original oil, 6 month old Shell 87 gas, hilly National Forest terrain, and rode it like I usually ride (moderate speed no mud pits or off trail hill climbs). First 100 or so miles could tell the engine worked hard "heavy on the throttle" climbing hills on the trails. Exhaust pipe glowing red while at idle at night time, brightens up a lot with throttle increase.
First, and every oil/filter change have used Yamaha filters and Yamalube 0-40 "Full Synthetic Ester based" snowmobile oil.
Now at 10,000+ miles, no oil use/burning, never adjusted valves, no trouble with wet clutch, always get ~15 MPG fuel economy, and starts/runs like new.
See signature for more machine accessories, add-ons, and tire wheel details.
Grizzly Dependability
First, and every oil/filter change have used Yamaha filters and Yamalube 0-40 "Full Synthetic Ester based" snowmobile oil.
Now at 10,000+ miles, no oil use/burning, never adjusted valves, no trouble with wet clutch, always get ~15 MPG fuel economy, and starts/runs like new.
See signature for more machine accessories, add-ons, and tire wheel details.
Grizzly Dependability
So how many $$$'s per mile does that work out to?
How many hours?
Start once a month or fog the cylinder to protect the engine. Saving the rubber parts..wire-hide? Many year ago mechanics/garages would use RU-GLYDE on all the rubber parts of a vehicle as part of an oil change.
How many hours?
Start once a month or fog the cylinder to protect the engine. Saving the rubber parts..wire-hide? Many year ago mechanics/garages would use RU-GLYDE on all the rubber parts of a vehicle as part of an oil change.
So how many $$$'s per mile does that work out to?
Good question.
I try not to think of that, but in my case ~ $1.00/mile at 10,000 miles not including fuel, oil, parts, insurance, maintenance, plates, permit, and etc.
Based on a typical 3-day camp/ride trip at ~100-120 miles cost is up to $120.00. Times twice a month is $240.00 per month.
$1680 year based on a 7 month season.
It's just another good reason to ride as much as possible as long as you're enjoying it (your investment).
Ride on, reduce your cost per mile!
Good question.
I try not to think of that, but in my case ~ $1.00/mile at 10,000 miles not including fuel, oil, parts, insurance, maintenance, plates, permit, and etc.
Based on a typical 3-day camp/ride trip at ~100-120 miles cost is up to $120.00. Times twice a month is $240.00 per month.
$1680 year based on a 7 month season.
It's just another good reason to ride as much as possible as long as you're enjoying it (your investment).
Ride on, reduce your cost per mile!
Stop this talk right now! I don't want a list of expenditures for my Griz. Not to mention I have to triple the cost since I also have a Motorcycle and next year my first sled. Don't remind me about all the incidental things I don't think about much... Me no want to know! [emoji1787]
So....
While under lock-down these days, I sit on the back porch looking at the mountains waiting for the snow to melt. 6 beers at 1 buck apiece is more than the grizz resting in the shop.
While under lock-down these days, I sit on the back porch looking at the mountains waiting for the snow to melt. 6 beers at 1 buck apiece is more than the grizz resting in the shop.
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