what was the custom clutching?

 

Are you kidding me??? Pics or it didn't happen.


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I wanna hear the custom clutch mods. Do they involve standing on back rack?

 

I wouldn't doubt you could clutch it properly to run 29.5s but I bet the top spees is like 50km. Like throwing big tires on a honda.

 

Curious about clutching also. Mine has 26.5" Rockers and other mods and it has a nasty low end bog. Not a chance of pulling a wheelie.

 

The radials are heavier than the 29.5 laws. It may be tough to get them up.

The goal is not to spin the tires fast in mud, it is spin them slow and crawl through. Break less parts and works better on a light machine like the grizzly.

Also there is lots of talk on weight set ups out there that we have just proved not to work in the new grizzlies. What was learned on the 07 and 08 does not work on 09 and up.

My 07 stock with kodiak weights with stock weights would wheelie pretty easily. Same setup in two 09 we tried and it would just rev out and no wheelie.

Remember there are two ways to adjust shifting on this clutch. One is the weights and the lighter you go the quicker you shift and quicker you get to max revs. Also acheivable is higher revs with lighter weights. Heavier weights shift slower and bring rpms down. The second part is the spring. The lighter the spring the quicker the upshift but slower backshift. You also have less belt grip and if the front pulley is to aggressive the belt CAN slip in the secondary.

So whats this mean?

Basically, just because you are running bigger tires does not mean you have to run lighter weights. Lighter weights can have a negative effect when the spring gets stiff. Think, lighter weights up shift faster and heavier spring slows up shift... sounds kinda wierd doesnt it? Why would you increase up shift on one pulley and decrease it on the other? The key is to get them working together and matching there shift patterns.

Get some1.5mm shims, a white spring and put your stock weights back in. Stock primary. Your machine will hit a wall but still climb to about 80 kmh. The torque is strong off the bottom and will give you that wheelie power.

 

must be a 700 with 550 stickers on it.

 

Videos or it didn't happen.

 

no replies = didnt happen

 

It happened. I struggle with my go pro. I think it is recording when its not, sometimes takes pics instead of vid or I thought I turned it on but turned it off....grrr.

It is not my bike. Just tuned it is all I did. It is in fact a 550 and no I was not standing on the rack. All it takes is some traction, a little know how on the launch and a pull on the bars. Including the tuning as well. I could not beleive it my self. The 550 is on my youtube channel breaking through some ice to find some mud. That is all the video that turned out.

I will see if I can get some vid but may not get any wheelie action with the snow that is supposed to be coming our way today.

btw... I dont bs.

I said I had a grizzly that will run with a 1000 and proved that with vid.

PS this same setup was hitting 80 kmh on speedo on gravel.

 

Ohh also run yamalube for best wet clutch engagement.

 

Hold up. Lighter weights upshift slower because it takes more centrifugal force to push them out to the ends of the channels. At least that's what me and about a million other people thought.

 

That is what i was told too and believed it for so long. I just started diving into these clutches to really understand them with a fresh eye and not rely on what I have read.

If you hook a tack up to the grizzly you can see how much faster the lighter weights hit the shift out. It takes less force to spin them so the rev up quicker and shift out sooner.

With the heavy weights it takes more rpm to get them to move so they want to stay in the lower gear longer. If you couple this with a heavy spring you stay in lowest gear ratio the longest which in this case gave the 550 its wheelie power.

This all comes with learning the physics behind clutching. I am not saying that ppl do not need light weights. It all has to do with getting your shift out to peak hp or torque. So in the case of a mud racer, they will want lighter weights cause they need there rpms UNDER load to be reaching peak power band at the machines matching RPM.

For a crawler you will want heavier weights to drop the torque further down the curve.

Make sense?

 

I use Low

 

Professional grizzly clutchee

 

Clutchineer


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Makes sense to me... I will give it a try. eace:

 

Hello!

I am the owner of this 550 grizz in question. Mr loudelectronics is not b/s you, this machine does what he says. I haven't personally done much wheelee'ing so I am still workin on it, but MisterLE jumped on and gave it a few test runs, and up he went on two wheels for about 30 feet or more, I'd say......
Yes, I also hit 75/80 kms on a gravel road, was running pretty steady too!

I will see if I can get'er up on two today, but that foot of snow that fell last night might complicate things.....

 

Con through some pics up of your paint job!

 

Here is the vid of Cages bike in that icey hole. Missed most of it but you can see the motor is not working to spin the tires, not wet clutch slip (high revs and no tires turning or barely turning) and he is able to get the tires to spin slowly under his control.

 

I refer to a good book on clutching writeen by Aaen himself. I also invite everyone to try it for them selves so you can see what I am talking about.

 

Really skeptical... It goes against physics but anyway...

 

The secondary and primary work together if you have a strong spring in the secondary you will need more weight in the primary to over come the stronger clamping force of the secondary. The best way to tune your clutch is with a tach and by marking the sheaves. You want to use the full face of the sheaves and have the clutch pulling in the rpm where your making the most power. Usually when you add more power you can carry a heavier weight, But once you go up in tire size you need to drop that weight to get it back into the same power band.

 

Thanks grizzlymud. This is exactly my point. Just cause you are running bigger tires does not mean you need lighter weights when you are running a stiiffer spring. We do not have helixes in our secondaries to dictate upshift and backshift. Our springs is what controls this.

You just cant assume that you need to change the weights. Everything works together. If you make a change up front it changes how the rear reacts. The same goes if you change the rear spring. You will get a different reaction from the front. Weights are not always the answer.

I have had ppl tell me over and over that lighter weights are the way to go and there bikes barely get out of the hole and I stab the gas and the front comes up so easy.

It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish.

 

loud electronics, what would your advice be for a wheely when i want 660? on 28 swamplites. right now I have gold sec spring, 500 stall, mad mike primary, 1 mm shim and stock weights. it can kinda sorta wheelie if I time it right etc etc. I want to sit and lean back and pick em up.

 

I have not played with a 660 and do not know what rpm makes peak hp or torque. I think you are on the right track though. I really struggle with the stall springs. With the higher engagement though and your looking to do wheelies and that is the goal I would try 4 Or all 700 weights. The white spring really works well with the heavier weights.

I personally do not like stall springs because these motors make good torque down low right off idle. The twins benefit the most from higher stalls cause they have less torque on the bottom of the curve.

So if you want wheelies up the weight a bit and add the stiffer spring. It may help to lose the stall springs to make best use of that torque. 500 rpm should not hurt you to much though. 1000 is a different story.

 

I have 500s. I think Im damn near the limit of the clutching. looking into 11:1 piston and a MB. or a 700... or a can am.... I need a money tree.

 

I will sell you a canam... To heavy for me and the handling is poor. Cant wait to get rid of it.