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Grizzly 700 Reverse rev-limiter Override Mod

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59K views 56 replies 26 participants last post by  AZ08Grizz  
#1 ·
All parts needed can be purchased at Radio shack except for the di-electric grease. This can be purchase at most auto parts stores. (Napa)

1 Rocker switch
6 feet of wire. (the same gauge as what's used on the quad works best. I think it's 18 gauge)
1 Wire Tap-In squeeze connector
2 Female Crimp-on Quick Disconnects
1 Solderless insulated Spade tongue (big enough to fit around the battery bolt)
Some di-electric grease

For pics of the parts, goto the bottom of the post.

Step 1. Start by taking the seat, rack and plastic off so you can access the right side of the engine and the battery. (right side if you're sitting on it.)

Step 2. Locate the green with white stripe sensor cable going into the "bullet style" sensor on the top of the engine. You can pull it straight up to pop it off, in order to verify that it's the correct cable. (if powered on, the reverse light should come on.) Trace this wire back up to the wiring harness.

Step 3. Cut your 6' wire into 4' and 2' pieces. (**If you don't want a switch, don't cut the wire. Follow this next step except connect a spade tongue instead of the female quick-disconnect and run straight to the negative terminal of your battery.**) Choose a spot on the green w/ white strip wire and crimp the 4' piece to it using the Wire Tap-in. Coat w/ di-electric grease and wrap with electrical tape. Strip and crimp a Female Quick-Disconnect to the other end. (you can choose to wait to do this step until after you get the exact length needed to get to your switch so you can cut away the excess.)

Step 4. Next choose a high location (some where that will keep dry usually) to place the switch. I chose the plastic guard that goes over the handlebars. Drill a hole in this location big enough to fit the back of the Rocker switch. Insert the switch and attach the female quick-disconnect.
Image


Step 5. Strip and crimp a Female Quick-Disconnect to the 2' wire and attach that to the switch as well. Cover with di-electric grease and wrap with electrical tape.

Step 6. Strip and crimp the spade tongue to the other end and run to the negative terminal of the battery. A light dab of di-eletric grease here wouldn't hurt as well.

The caviot to having this switch in place is that it needs to be turned on prior to the quad being turned on, or it won't be engaged. Also, if you turn the switch off while the quad is running, it will dis-engage the override until the key is turned off and back on. The benefit is that you can dis-engage it for less experienced riders.



1 Rocker Switch
[attachment=684:rocker_switch.jpg]

1 Wire Tap-In squeeze connector
[attachment=685:wire_tap_in.jpg]

2 Female Crimp-on Quick Disconnects
[attachment=686:female_c...connects.jpg]

1 Solderless insulated Spade tongue
[attachment=687:spade_tongue.jpg]
 

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#7 ·
Addicted... if you unplugged it, the reverse light would stay on constantly, but nothing else would really change.

BD, It gives you full power in reverse, even when in dif-lock low. The grey override button only works when going forward. If you don't perform this mod, your engine cuts out at a certain RPM (which is fairly low) when trying to go in reverse.

The benefit is that when you have this mod, you can back out of mud holes, or pull people out in reverse without the lack of power being an issue.
 
#10 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tom9933 @ Aug 3 2007, 11:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
One of these days I want to dig out the meter and figure out a way for the button to do both. It seems like this should be possible and it would be the cleanest way to do it
Image
[/b]
The problem with having to use the button is that you then have to be holding it down... I don't always have both hands on the handle bars... or I need all of my fingers (including my thumb) to yank and pull on the hand grips to jerk the quad out...
 
#12 ·
just ground the green sensor wire to the grounds at the base of the starter, do this by splicing in a short piece of wire with an eyelet on the end into the green wire, it even slides into the existing crimp and boot at the sensor end then remove the ground bolt and install the eyelet. $0.25 cents and the reverse overide is permanent and fool proof just dont gas it in reverse !!!!!!
 
#14 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Ministock7x @ Oct 9 2007, 12:24 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Couldyou just replace the momentary factory override switch with a on / off switch?[/b]
The factory switch does NOT over ride the reverse limiter. The over ride button ONLY affects when you are in Diff Lock.
 
#16 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (madmann1 @ Oct 2 2007, 07:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
just ground the green sensor wire to the grounds at the base of the starter, do this by splicing in a short piece of wire with an eyelet on the end into the green wire, it even slides into the existing crimp and boot at the sensor end then remove the ground bolt and install the eyelet. $0.25 cents and the reverse overide is permanent and fool proof just dont gas it in reverse !!!!!![/b]
This is what I did. I didn't want to have to remember to push the button. Lose of memory is the first sign of old age. Since I'm the only one that rides my bike, then I don't have to worry about someone getting on it and nailing the gas in reverse.

How do you put an avatar by your screen name?
 
#21 ·
Step 1. Start by taking the seat, rack and plastic off so you can access the right side of the engine and the battery. (right side if you're sitting on it.)

Step 2. Locate the green with white stripe sensor cable going into the "bullet style" sensor on the top of the engine. You can pull it straight up to pop it off, in order to verify that it's the correct cable. (if powered on, the reverse light should come on.) Trace this wire back up to the wiring harness.



You really can't miss it...
 
#22 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Hebs @ Nov 8 2007, 07:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Retard?? It eliminates the rev-limiter in reverse. It does nothing with the dif-lock in fwd....[/b]
How does it control the rev limiter? Spark? <---known as retard

Just a techinicality, but you answered my question, thanks.
 
#25 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BigDaddyTX @ January 7, 2008, 8:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I'm getting ready to do the reverse override. I'm not interested in a switch. but I don't have a sea foam green with white wire, only a seafoam green wire in that clear six pin connector. Is this the one to ground out?[/b]
If you don't want the switch, this is probably the simplest way here. You just need to ground out the green and white wire I believe.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (madmann1 @ October 2, 2007, 6:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
just ground the green sensor wire to the grounds at the base of the starter, do this by splicing in a short piece of wire with an eyelet on the end into the green wire, it even slides into the existing crimp and boot at the sensor end then remove the ground bolt and install the eyelet. $0.25 cents and the reverse overide is permanent and fool proof just dont gas it in reverse !!!!!![/b]

The Green/white wire can be found if you remove the right hand side plastic and belt exhaust. There is a little thing that looks simalar to a tiny spark plug with the green and white wire, it does have a black sleeve around it.
Mine looks a little different, as I did my override a little different then posted. Yours will have a little black clip on it (red circle). It's a little blurry, but you get the idea. That is attached to the connection that is circled yellow.

[attachment=1840:IMG_0370sm.jpg]

[attachment=1839:IMG_0369sm.jpg]

Good luck. Hope it helps.

Later
Molsondrinkr
 

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#26 ·
it's easier if you just use one of these wire splice connectors... and then ground out the new wire you spliced the old one to...

[attachment=1843:splice.jpg]

(I just like the ability to turn it off when I let inexperienced people ride. The switch is still working perfect for me. People think it came like that.)
 

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