Disable that 3rd light is the best option.
Amazon will be your best place to look for a small single row led light bar.

Not sure on the grizzly if that 3rd light is replaced with an h4 bulb fairly easy, or if you can use an h6m with a bit of modification like the kodiak.


Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

I think its a h6m bulb havent took it out yet. As far as a light bar im looking for recommendations for the thinnest one available so you really dont notice it. Trying to keep the factory look as much as possible with my mods.

 

I think its a h6m bulb havent took it out yet. As far as a light bar im looking for the thinnest one available so you really dont notice it. Trying to keep the factory look as much as possible with my mods.

Oh, i hear ya, that's why there are no led bars on my kodiak, i don't find they look goid on there,. I do have 2 small rigid industries ignite pods on there. They are very small but brighter than all 3 stock lights. Currently they are mounted where the reflectors were on the rack, but my new headlight mods comming, she i might move the pods inward.

You can see the pods mounted just above the headlights in this pic.

Search amazon for a 8 or 10" single row led light bar.

Here is one option, won't get much smaller

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07BNHQS3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SZNFM9CCT9551D0QFYXS

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

Oh nice! Those are small and barely noticeable. What wattage should I stay within to be in safe operation of the electrical system on the grizzly?

 

Wattage isn't your issue, it would be amprage. But shall led bar will pull less than 10 amps, you could run up to a good 30" double row a still be way way under the amprage limits of the electrical system.

Those little pods aren't cheap, they are rigids, cost me like $180 cdn for the set. But they are each 1000 lumins, they are bright. And they will take abuse.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

I did the same with my 19 Grizz, the halogen upset me 😆 though once done it was only very average in output and too low relative to glare off the rack.
I made a mounting bracket to attach via my rox riser top plate , took the power feed off the factory bulb , but put an inline switch so I could isolate / turn off my rack mounted bigger lightbar for when riding in woods or behind people to reduce the glare/bounce back of light.
It works superbly well in the technical stuff , really helping illuminate on turn in , the trail ahead.
not everyone’s cup of tea but I have no regrets.👍

 

I did the same with my 19 Grizz, the halogen upset me 😆 though once done it was only very average in output and too low relative to glare off the rack.
I made a mounting bracket to attach via my rox riser top plate , took the power feed off the factory bulb , but put an inline switch so I could isolate / turn off my rack mounted bigger lightbar for when riding in woods or behind people to reduce the glare/bounce back of light.
It works superbly well in the technical stuff , really helping illuminate on turn in , the trail ahead.
not everyone’s cup of tea but I have no regrets.👍

Very nice, Dont look bad at all! Whats that thing on your rack to the left of the middle light bar?

 

Oh gotcha on the amps. Those are costly!

 

It’s a factor55 winch hook replacement , it’s mounted on a bracket I made for it to fit on the rack , so if needed and it’s buried/underwater I can get it easily.
Better angle , maybe 😆

 

Very nice, just found another mod maybe. Thanks

 

Thanks , and no worries , glad to share the love 🤗

 

Light i picked up for my '21

Amazon.com: P15D H6M LED Headlight Bulbs Motorcycle High Low Beam Light Motorbike Headlamp Super Bright White 1200LM Upgraded 3030 Chips 6000K for Yamaha ATVS YFM350 400 450 660 700 Raptor: Automotive

Buy P15D H6M LED Headlight Bulbs Motorcycle High Low Beam Light Motorbike Headlamp Super Bright White 1200LM Upgraded 3030 Chips 6000K for Yamaha ATVS YFM350 400 450 660 700 Raptor: Bulbs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Mounting brackets

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FT2KVNL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Singe row lightbar

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G38HYR9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pic of my wifes 550 with the light bar mounted under the front rack, planning on running the same setup on my '21.

 

I put in a led bulb from feebay. Matches color well as I dont need the output with the lightbar.

 

I like the results. Can you please provide the light part number?

 

Diode Dynamics Stage Series 6" SAE/DOT White Light Bar

Reasonable cost and very high quality light . Company engineers their lights concentrating on focusing light output. This light’s output exceeds the previous 12” dual row Chinese LED light bar I purchased via AMZN with les actual LEDs. It is not priced as cheap as AMZN lights but is no where near Rigid prices. Very pleased with this light and I was also looking for smaller form factor.

 

I've been very happy with the black oak led bar I bought on sale. Its held up really well thru wet weather riding and power washes

 

That Handle bar light is about useless. don't know why Yamaha didn't put an LED in it to begin with. I've tried a few things. one thing about aftermarket LED's in the stock housing. The OEM light output is more of a spot light. the LED's turn it in to a driving or flood output. wasn't impressed with them. they create shadows around the frontend and make it more difficult to see. I didn't learn and kind of cost me. The daylight picture is a D-SS pro Driving. that was a big mistake. Talk about shadowing. In the pitch black night it made it look like cliffs all around me. except way out in front. I bought the D-SS pro spot and that made a world of difference. The driving is now on the front of a little honda trx300 and works great. point is sometimes more isn't better. the driving is brighter but created to much spill across the front of the bike and made it difficult to see close up. All my lights are on 3 way switches. they are on with the high beams or independently or I can turn them off independently. this way if I have something on my rack I can turn my high beams on along with the lightbar and shut of the handlebar light.

 

That Handle bar light is about useless. don't know why Yamaha didn't put an LED in it to begin with. I've tried a few things. one thing about aftermarket LED's in the stock housing. The OEM light output is more of a spot light. the LED's turn it in to a driving or flood output. wasn't impressed with them. they create shadows around the frontend and make it more difficult to see. I didn't learn and kind of cost me. The daylight picture is a D-SS pro Driving. that was a big mistake. Talk about shadowing. In the pitch black night it made it look like cliffs all around me. except way out in front. I bought the D-SS pro spot and that made a world of difference. The driving is now on the front of a little honda trx300 and works great. point is sometimes more isn't better. the driving is brighter but created to much spill across the front of the bike and made it difficult to see close up. All my lights are on 3 way switches. they are on with the high beams or independently or I can turn them off independently. this way if I have something on my rack I can turn my high beams on along with the lightbar and shut of the handlebar light.
View attachment 100711 View attachment 100712 View attachment 100713 View attachment 100716 View attachment 100715

Man, thats a spendy little sucker though, isnt it? Just looked it up on a couple different sites....

 

Definitely not the cheapest route. The spot is a little cheaper or less expensive. But as you can see in the pictures even the spot cast a little shadow but the bar on front knocks that out. With the diving light even as bright as the bar is it couldn't light up the shadows the driving light cast. The pictures are also with no weight on it so loaded up the lights light about 600yrds to a tree on the other side of the pasture. Driving at night is a blast with this setup.
Been looking for another new grizzly around me. Going to set it up with a spot driving combo bar. Think it might be even better combo with the D-SS spot.

 

Light color also has a lot to do with vision and the ability to see. Stay away from blues as they strain your eyes and can cast shadows. On my pickup i went from running a rigid 30" E2 bar with hyperspot and driving optics to a BD 30" Onx6 combo optic. The difference in color alone made for a much more enjoyable experience. Personally I have found 4000k to 4500k to be the best for breaking up shadows and dark spots, as such I look for light colors close to this range.

Its not something many people think about, but i assure you its as important as anything else when looking at changing or upgrading lights.

 

4300 to 5500k is natural daylight, the range in the spectrum that the human eye sees best at. The Kalvin temp of the light doesn't effect shadows, the actual light output does, but with that, typically, a light with a higher color temp will produce less light output at the same current as a light with a lower temperature. Lower temp colors also cut through dust, snow, and moisture much better than higher temp color lights which tend to reflect of the airborne particals, causing more glare as the light reflects back to the eye.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

Most rigid lights are just under the 6000k. I prefer the 5000k-5500k myself. the rigid are a little more white but not quite going in to the blues. Dajokr is right on the color and strain on eyes. I play a lot with lights LED's, HID's, projector retrofits, retrofits with HID's. The 5000k-6000k is one of the highest outputs to lumens. There for it would seem to cast more shadow. The blue light on red dirt = black. So again would be a negative. A 5500k-5800k isn't bad on snow but while snowing better have an amber lens cover. I don't have any problems in the dust other than I don't wear goggles and no light helps me see when I have my eyes closed.

 

That's exactly what i do in my spare time fit the lady 15 years, retrofits. Actual lumans is the worst way to judge light output. You use lux. You can have a light with very high "claimed" lumens, yet a light with lower lumens can actually be brighter because its actual usable light is higher. Measured with a lux meter.

That's why with my wholesale suppliers, the best quality stuff is measured in lux, not lumens.
Go on fleabay or amazon and all that Chinese stuff only states lumens.
All my rigid d series pods on my truck, and my rigid ignites on the kodiak are 5700 to 5900K. Ideal light out on the trail. The stupid hid bulbs that got shipped for the kodiak are 8000k....gives a nice blue hue, looks kinda cool for a bike, but useless light penetration into dust or fog for snowfall. So I switch on my little rigid ignites and they cut right through it should be nicer once I retrofit in my Amber LEDs

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

Seems we 3 have a lighting passion lol. I honestly wont buy another rigid, not because there a bad light (there not), but because i personally see blue with them, especially next to the hids I have been using for years. BD is my bar of choice these days, though i am looking to try the stage series from diode dynamics on the grizz.

 

You might like rigid industrial line. My dullys look nice and white, until i park next to my loader at work. All our cat loaders come with cat halogen work lights or cat led work lights, but our shop for man has started replacing the cat work lights with rigid industrial service pods & small bars. My 986 has 2 8" bars up high and 2 4" pods down low on front, and 4 4" pods high and low on back. The industrial series need to bought in bulk though, we get them by the pallet load.
They are a 4800K color. Man next to the ones on my truck, they look white. Make my truck ones look like they have a bluish hue.
I have a set of 4" halogen pods down low on the front of the loader too that i use for travelling on the main mine roads so i don't blind workers coming in to work in thier personal vehicles. After having all my rigids on, then drop down to the 2 halogen it feels like I'm driven holding a lit match out in front of me.lol
So gross yellow and dim and a huge shadow from my bucket.
FYI.... If your wondering how much on average a pallet of rigid industries industrial series lights are bought at wholesale.... Avg $45-55k
That's 70% 4" pods sets, 30% 6 and 8" bar sets.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

I have a Diode Dynamics stage series 6" SAE/Driving light. That replaced a 12" dual row LED bar. Seems the smaller, DD light has much better light focus. I also use two cheaper 3" pod LED flood lights to fill in the foreground as they are angled down and to the side a bit. The DD light seems well made especially when you consider the price difference compared to Rigid or Baja Designs. Although the stats on the light I have says the color temp is 6000k and you can go with amber but those are 2000K and lose some lux compared to the non-amber lights.

 

Quad retro with 30" BD bar. Liked the light so much, i did a 2nd retro on my Sierra and swapped the 30" Rigid bar for the BD bar. In all honesty, i havent used my grizz in the dark so I have no idea how bad the stock lights are to begin with. For the price of the DD bars and the pics/vids i have seen, I am tempted to grab one and see for myself. Anythings better then a fleabay or amazon bar though imo if your looking for a quality bar 🤷‍♂️

 

On my truck i use quad lity. On the bike, it gets cheapo amazon lighting usually just due to the higher chance of theft. Although i have risked it with my little rigid ignites, they are just so compact and bright, i can't find a cheap comparison.
Last winter, we had an icefishing party at a buddies big hut, it's a 20ft seacan with a 12x12 wooden room built on the side. There were about 10 atv and 20 sleds outside, we were all inside drinking, listen to musice a have 18 access holes in the floor to fish from. The built in porta potty was busy so a guy went outside to take a leak a caught a couple guys stealing rotopax cans off the bikes and sleds. They took off she we didn't catch them. After we all come out to check on our stuff, it was discovered they took every roto pax that wasn't locked on, 4 garmin gps with the ram mounts, and 8 light bars off the bikes, a gas auger, and even took 2 helmets and 3 or 4 wallets.
All we know was it was a 4 seater canam 1000 sxs on tracks, and we figured they had to have been there close to 45 min stealing while we were all inside. Pretty brave/stupid.
My rotopax wasn't locked but they missed it avg my rigid ignites, because i had a big heavy cardboard box full of cedar kindling sitting on top of front rack sxs my front bumper was almost up against the seacan.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

What kind of water bottle mount is that?

 

I use these on my 660. I use the tusk H6M bright white bulb. Also have on my 22 xtr handlebar light, matches the LEDs perfect and the high and low work correctly. Have not found a good led bulb that has had good reviews. Either not that bright or hi low doesnt work right