I used a large pipe wrench. It didn't require all that much power to adjust mine. You can always use a cheater bar for leverage and jack the quad up so that there isn't as much compression on the spring.

 

Placed where? I would think the jaws would chew up the "locks" or toothed part, and putting it below that, it would seem that the "sleeve lock" would be higher than the sleeve, and again, the jaws would damage that portion.

 

Most of us have found that using a simple pair of channel locks works the best as Yamaha does not have a proper tool to grab the notches.

-Twister

 

Most of us have found that using a simple pair of channel locks works the best as Yamaha does not have a proper tool to grab the notches.

-Twister

Yeah, came close to doing that, but then thought the channel locks are going to chew the notches up pretty bad.

 

I jacked up the quad to take the load off the adjusters, sprayed some silicone spray on the adjusters to free em up, and cranked away with channel locks, moved real smooth, not much effort involved. I didnt chew up the notches at all.

 

Before you grab the shock with a set of steel tooth jaws, wrap a shop rag around the adjuster, this will eliminate much of the chew marks.........

 

I winched my front end over a tree branch which took the weight off and it was easy as pie

 

If You affraid of marks then U can try plumbing chain lock.
On one end it looks like wise grips with a dailer at the end to tight it and on the other end instead of jaws U have a chain like from bicycle. No marks and no deformed adjusters.
But forget the crap above.
Silicon spray, car Jack, reg. Channel lock and rug will do it also.
Once You spray it, give couple for penetration, jack it up so the wheels are in the air- there's not that much tension at this point.

 

Sometimes it takes force to do the job, and maybe a "suitable tool" to do the job, not always the correct way but sometimes its the only way.

 

The suitable tool is called a "shock spanner" available at most motocycle shops. Steel ones are the best. Taking the weight off the shocks and a little lube behind the ajusting collar makes the job a little easier but it will take some force to move the collar.

 

Thanks! eace: I could not remember the name for the tool (I was pretty sure one existed). Called my dealer, they don't have it in stock, but will order it and it will be here Thurs. $10 + tax. The "half-moon" variety of shock spanner.

 

...Ok, if You have a doubts or want to do the right way:
http://pitposse.com/moprohoatcsh.html

 

Has anyone tried one of this?? Dont recall the name but worked for me.

 

I just use a spanner and a piece of pipe I had.
I have my rears at full compression, and the fronts one click softer.
it felt tippy, so when i got the new tires put on, i cranked the fronts down and it rides sooo much nicer, no tippyness.

but that could be partially the tires/rims too. I have them full compress. I'm a Big'un dude. 320+

 

So where are your fronts and rears now? Rears still at full, and fronts at ???

 

all 4 are full firm.

 

I don't need another one-time tool in my garage.
Just channelock and if You worry about the scratches- get yourself protective hard-rubber jaw tips from Sears for 1.99 a pack, done.

 

i hate channel locks as a spanner wrench alternative. a spanner wrench with a pipe on it way more leverage than trying to take spring weight off then using channel locks

i also use the channel locks on my real cars for the suspension too.

so, its a double use tool for me.

but a spanner wrench you can use to turn almost anything round that has a hole in it.

with channel locks you need 2 forces, clamping force, and turning force, a spanner... just turning force...

get the right tool for the right job, even if you only use it once...