Once a year is fine.

Unless you rack up some mega big mileage or high hours per year.

 

Once a year after snow plowing season.

 

also if u are in the mud/ deeper water i would do it like every 150-200 hour's or every 3-4 months check it.

 

The table indicates that after the 6 months or 160 hours or 2500 miles. Change the oil again at the 12th month, or 320 hours or 5000 miles. In each case change it a whatever interval comes first. If you ride a lot change at 2500 or less miles. If you don't ride a lot change at 6 month intervals.
Considering the hour spec if you ride very slow or idle a lot, the miles will not rack up as fast as the hours so change the oil at the hour interval.

 

If you are under a YES warranty (mine expires 2.1.2027) then after "INITIAL" period it would have to be 6 months on oil and 12 months on oil/filter. I just do the filter anyway. Also if you are under the Yamalube warranty.. now apparently closed to new participants.

 

I am under the YES warranty, so I guess I'll go every 6 months just to be compliant. Otherwise, annually is what I would have done given my riding style and the miles I will likely ride per year. I'll be doing the first oil change since I've owned it coming up next weekend, along with diff oil as well.

 

I change mine every 50 hours. Do both diffs at the same time. It's cheap insurance.

 

I have had my brand new 2023 Grizzly 700 for right at a year, and was not able to ride it near as much as I would have liked. I only have 8 hours on it, but figured the engine oil should be changed. From What I have seen on this forum, a lot recommend using full synthetic after initial oil change. Is 8 hour enough to switch to synthetic? The Mobil1 below a good choice?

Thanks for all your input!

 

I've never used it but I'm sure that is great oil, maybe even overkill for your Grizzly. Truthfully all oil is pretty damn good now days. I've used Rotella T for many years, I do have lots of bikes though. The KTMs get Motorex oil but other than those two Rotella has worked great.

 

It is jaso rated for wet clutches and a very good oil. I'd at least do the 240km or 20 hrs specified in the shop manual before changing the oil though, you want your break in to be done when you'll put your mobil 1.

 

I'd go ahead and do the break-in miles before switching oils. As far as Mobile 1 Racing 4T I'm sure it's a good oil but I prefer an Ester based oil over a PAO base oil. For that reason I use Yamalube Ester based full synthetic oil. If an oil doesn't say Ester based then I'd assume it's POA based, or a blend of both.

Here's some info posted info on Mobile 1 Racing 4T....

"It's no longer named Mobil 1 MX4T, it's Mobil 1 Racing 4T. No ester in it. It is a Group III+/IV/V blend: Mobil's proprietary VISOM (III+), PAO (IV), and Alkylated Naphthalene (V). The AN is the additive solubility agent. The blend ratios of course are not known."

"Many people have a mindset that synthetics cause leaks, and it is based in fact. When first introduced, Mobil1 caused a lot of leakage! The original Mobil1 formula was 100% PAO based with no ester. PAOs shrink seals, causing leakage. That is where esters come into play. Esters swell seals, and when a proper mix is achieved, the seals stay the same size. Mobil1 is now a blend of PAO and ester stocks."

 

Im swapping mine out spring and fall, for summer/winter oi regardless of mileage. Of course, if it gets worked real hard, i'd add an extra change in there.

 

The other day talking about oil with a friend that has been a high-end small engine mechanic and race engine builder for 40 some years. He indicated that IF the engine manufacturer spec's syn-oil use syn.
If they spec dino use dino.
IF they spec they dino or syn can be used USE dino.
He feels that there is no way the engine can be machined for both oils.

I researched this and did in fact find information, reports where switching to sys-oil on an engine that spec'd both created problems anywhere from leaks to piston slap.

FIRE! FIRE!

 

Being heavily involved in the classic car community for 25 years (where the average cars are 50 + years old) other then the addition of zinc additives to help protect cam and lifters , there is zero consensus to support these claims of potential long term engine issues.

That said, using full synthetics in our old Irons have certainly been known for causing more unwanted chassis oiling and drips in our driveways.