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Hello all and thanks for all the wonderful info. I have recently purchased and basically restore an 05 kodiak 450. I then did the snorkel kit very simular to this one. Great Job, by the way. However, I am still somehow getting a stall once the carb goes under. I was wondering if anyone that has snorkeled could post some pictures of all the vent tubes (origin location) the ran up from the carb, rad. overflow, etc. Thanks in advance!
You need to plug your Carb drain line ,, water goes back up it , and gets into the carb , which then floods your gas...

YES it has a one way valve ,, BUT those RARELY work.. Trust me.. Also make sure you Dielectric Grease the spark plug boot , and even carry grease , because I have had my grease wash away over time , and cause a stall again.

here is a snorkel revision video I did a while back.

 
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And heres the proof it works ....



:yrules:
 
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Discussion starter · #64 ·
Great vid ! I gota ask, how do you get your grizz so clean ? ,lol
Did you have to shave any of the underside of the seat ? And how exactly did you construct the 90 out of the air box ? I have not been able to mock up one that clears the seat . But im ready to finish it , my kodiak just doesn't feel the same without the tank cover ... As i understand it, the grizz 450 and kodiak 450 are identical , or at least i thought so .
 
Discussion starter · #65 · (Edited)
hopefully your watching on your phone and can turn it sideways ...

 
I know what you are talking about with the other repairs. I got mine for a great price, but have had to do alot of work. Rings, (valves still need adjustment), ball joint, tie rods, front diff replaced and both cv axles, carb repaired, and im sure there is stuff im forgetting.

So on the carb, the small tube that runs to the air box, you blocked off?
Crank case (from right side of valve cover), where is it instead of the air box? Any picks of the all the small lines you ran up would be great (from where they start of course. Thanks for all you info and time responding.

Check out the stuff in this thread about plugs. Specifically the side gapping link and the stuff about sealing up the coil. I'm gonna try both as a preventative measure.
 
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Discussion starter · #68 ·
I ran the crankcase breather up top of the snorkles, yes I blocked off the small tube that goes from the carb to the airbox . I didn't see where it talks about selling the
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
over inflated tires, soft sand and swift current were all working against me , lol , but she never cut off !




 
So what are your thoughts on completely eliminating the air box? I mean if everything is vented up to the snorkels, why not just clamp to the carb directly and add a filter to the top of the snorkel?

Thoughts anyone..
 
So what are your thoughts on completely eliminating the air box? I mean if everything is vented up to the snorkels, why not just clamp to the carb directly and add a filter to the top of the snorkel?

Thoughts anyone..
I would not do it. These motors tend to be a bit fussy about the air intake , and messing with the air flow can seriously affect performance. Also , if you get a SMALL amount of water into your intake pipe , the air box will trap the water , and keep it from entering the motor. You can drain it from the bottom.
Not to mention ,, good luck mounting a nice air cleaner high up , and keeping it in place.. gonna look hacked.

I did NOT block off ANY breathers , or vents. My crankcase breather still runs into my air box , I just Sealed it with RTV silicone , so it would not leak.

It takes a little time , but if you copy what I did ,, it works good , and was cheap and easy. Under the heat wrap , starts with a rubber 2" 90 degree plumbing pipe , cut to fit over air box , GLUED WITH LOTS OF RTV silicone.. The blue flex tube goes ALL THE WAY into the air box , thru that rubber tube. Then just fill in the holes with RTV silicone. Inside and out.
I did not glue air box lid on... But its not a bad idea. Mine seems to be pretty air/water tight. I check my clear drain tube on the bottom of the air box often.. Rarely have any water in it.. sometimes if I go deep long ,, it will have just a little.
Yes you need to trim gas tank plastic cover ,, just a little bit. I don't think I touched the seat though , and the seat covers the trimmed area of the gas tank cover.
 
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Discussion starter · #72 ·
I would not do it. These motors tend to be a bit fussy about the air intake , and messing with the air flow can seriously affect performance. Also , if you get a SMALL amount of water into your intake pipe , the air box will trap the water , and keep it from entering the motor. You can drain it from the bottom.
Not to mention ,, good luck mounting a nice air cleaner high up , and keeping it in place.. gonna look hacked.

I did NOT block off ANY breathers , or vents. My crankcase breather still runs into my air box , I just Sealed it with RTV silicone , so it would not leak.

It takes a little time , but if you copy what I did ,, it works good , and was cheap and easy. Under the heat wrap , starts with a rubber 2" 90 degree plumbing pipe , cut to fit over air box , GLUED WITH LOTS OF RTV silicone.. The blue flex tube goes ALL THE WAY into the air box , thru that rubber tube. Then just fill in the holes with RTV silicone. Inside and out.
I did not glue air box lid on... But its not a bad idea. Mine seems to be pretty air/water tight. I check my clear drain tube on the bottom of the air box often.. Rarely have any water in it.. sometimes if I go deep long ,, it will have just a little.
Yes you need to trim gas tank plastic cover ,, just a little bit. I don't think I touched the seat though , and the seat covers the trimmed area of the gas tank cover.
Ok, kinda like double protection, heat wouldnt cause both the rubber 90 and the blue hose to fold. I like that idea... what is the diameter of the blue hose going into the air box ? Back to the fab shop I go !!! Thanks Pohlhammer !!!
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
Guess Ill be saying goodbye to my "NUTBUSTER" soon ! never really busted them though, lol, and i can finally get my tank cover back on . But for anybody thats wants to go the buster route, heres mine, walmart had some realtree can coozies for a 1$ ea, couple pieces of plumb pipe and stock rubber airbox snorkel, spray paint .... cut the bottoms off of the coozies and slip them over a spray can . Superglue held them together way better then I thought it would, a nice thick bead around the seams . Neoprene is some pretty cool stuff, especially if its camo .
 

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Thanks from both of you for the input. I used a 90 pvc fitting at the box and glued it through the intake hole with short piece of pvc pipe and a cut in half coupling. The theory was good until I did it. I used a lot of silicone inside and out, so im a hair worried. I will be looking for the 90 rubber elbows as the HD didnt have them and I didn't have time to go to the Blue store. I like the idea of silicone in the fittings at the crank case and the short vent from carb to air box. I also purchased some nice screw down clamps and clamped everything. I would say the photos are what not to do (even though it works)

Image


Image
 
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Discussion starter · #75 ·
Update

so what do you think POHLHAMMER ?
 

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Discussion starter · #76 ·
NO MORE NUTBUSTER !

Exhaust wrap works better than i thought it would ....
 

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Discussion starter · #78 ·
Looks Reallly Good. I wonder why you have four pipes instead of three. Did you use one just for all the vent hoses?
 
Your snorkels look great!. Just about done snorkeling my Kodiak. I ran 4 snorkels and ran all my vents inside one of the snorkels all the way to the top, and made an insert before my 90deg elbow at the top. (ill post pics this weekend) That way you dont see and vent hoses. I test drove it and it performs great. I am only running 1.5 inch pool vacuum hose because thats all I could find, plus gave me more room on top of the exhaust for my intake.
 
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